RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper

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After 60k miles of hard abuse, My tire swingout on my dual RLC bumper snapped off. Ive since then upgraded to a double shear hinge from 4xinnovations.

Double shear
Oh man that sucks. I need to bookmark this for future reference.

Any signs it was failing?

My swingarms latch to each other, not to the ground. Not sure if that helps or hurts durability…
 
Oh man that sucks. I need to bookmark this for future reference.

Any signs it was failing?

My swingarms latch to each other, not to the ground. Not sure if that helps or hurts durability…
no. thankfully we were in deep snow when it let loose.
 
Waiting on some edge trim via amazon to come in tomorrow, along with some grommets for the rear sensors. Still gotta get some tubing as well to cut for spacers.

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When you open the lower tailgate does it clear the bumper, even when you sit on it? Mine made contact and there 2 fixed are either to lower the bumper slightly or trim the tailgate cable.
 
When you open the lower tailgate does it clear the bumper, even when you sit on it? Mine made contact and there 2 fixed are either to lower the bumper slightly or trim the tailgate cable.
I had to make new tailgate cables
 
When you open the lower tailgate does it clear the bumper, even when you sit on it? Mine made contact and there 2 fixed are either to lower the bumper slightly or trim the tailgate cable.

Clears the tailgate by maybe 1/2”, was playing with the mounting height for a bit, ultimately settled where it is sitting, to accommodate that aluminum trim piece
 
Clears the tailgate by maybe 1/2”, was playing with the mounting height for a bit, ultimately settled where it is sitting, to accommodate that aluminum trim piece
FYI if you don't push the bumper all the way up when mounting, it almost certainly will reposition itself higher if you smack the bumper coming down on a shelf. So if you intend to wheel your setup, be careful as if it shifts and then you drop the tailgate you may end up denting your tailgate...
 
Dang so sweet #Jealous. I bought the struts a while back and brought down to Higgy's (while they were doing my new suspension), but they couldn't off-hand figure out a way to fit them. Now I see that makes more sense the spindles would need to be different to raise the arms up. Who did you say you had in AZ modify your original bumper? Was that with 4x4labs spindles also, or was he able to modify the original RLC spindles? If they were 4x4labs spindles which option did you order? Ouch $150/each for just a spindle, this sounds like this wouldn't be a super cheap upgrade.....but I still want it

Sorry for the delayed response. Somehow this didn’t hit my radar.

Better late than never…

Q: Who did you say you had in AZ modify your original bumper?

A: Kent’s Mobile Welding (Phoenix, AZ). Kent is a very talented and experienced welder and all around good guy.


Q: Was that with 4x4labs spindles also, or was he able to modify the original RLC spindles? If they were 4x4labs spindles which option did you order? Ouch $150/each for just a spindle, this sounds like this wouldn't be a super cheap upgrade.....but I still want it

A: Yes, RLC Spindles. Not cheap, but totally worth it. Especially if you are commissioning a new bumper from James, just have him include them, the struts, and the detasco vertical latch from the get-go. James says it is overkill for most users, but those who need it know and he will do it on request.




In order to fit the gas springs, Kent had to raise the swing out arm higher on the spindle to make room for clearance. Wasn’t a big deal, since we cut the arm off the old spindle and had to re-attach anyhow.

Having had both the “stock” RLC spindles, latch and t-pin, these upgrades have definitely been worth the hassle.
 
Yeah I’d love to retrofit gas struts if I didn’t have to do the spindles too. The pin for the T handles scratches plate is slides across, which causes it to rust. I used some UHMW tape to protect mine but that eventually tears. Maybe it would be better if my bumper was powder coated, not POR15 painted :-/
 
Here are some shots of the new RLC bumper installed w the 4x4labs upgrades…

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Kent had to modify the 2” hitch on the driver side and bring it a few inches over in order to run the atv rack for the canyon cooler.

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And then, the atv rack was able to fit with the 34” KO2…

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Opens nicely for full access…

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On the driver side swing out, it came with a basket for 3 Jerry cans, but w the 40 gal auxiliary tank installed I prefer to run the canyon cooler secured with some steel core straps. Easy access to cold food and drink is really convenient.

 
Here are some shots of the new RLC bumper installed w the 4x4labs upgrades…

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Kent had to modify the 2” hitch on the driver side and bring it a few inches over in order to run the atv rack for the canyon cooler.

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And then, the atv rack was able to fit with the 34” KO2…

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Opens nicely for full access…

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On the driver side swing out, it came with a basket for 3 Jerry cans, but w the 40 gal auxiliary tank installed I prefer to run the canyon cooler secured with some steel core straps. Easy access to cold food and drink is really convenient.

That looks great. I’m curious, but it looks like you have a hitch attached so I’ll assume you pull some type of trailer. When a trailer is attached, are you able to open both swing arms, or is either of them too long?
 
That looks great. I’m curious, but it looks like you have a hitch attached so I’ll assume you pull some type of trailer. When a trailer is attached, are you able to open both swing arms, or is either of them too long?
I can't speak for @Mineral but I had James make my arms even length because I was afraid that would be a problem. In the end the spare tire actually has more impact on the ability to open when hitched up than the arm length does, because the spare is starting ~15" closer to the jack.

Ultimately mine clears just fine, and my jack was pretty close to the tongue. I did have to get a longer drop shank (not taller, just longer) to make it work.

The one place that I had an issue which surprised me was that on a very tight turn or when jackknifed backing up my spare tire would contact my propane cylinder. I think it would have been OK if the spare was perfectly vertical, but because it's tilted the bottom of the tire would make contact. I ended up moving the propane cylinders back about 3-4" and they seem to always clear now. On one hand I'd like the tire to be vertical since the lip of my wheel tends to collect and hold water, but I have made contact with the bottom of the spare on a V notch in Moab and being tilted was probably better for the departure angle.
 
I can't speak for @Mineral but I had James make my arms even length because I was afraid that would be a problem. In the end the spare tire actually has more impact on the ability to open when hitched up than the arm length does, because the spare is starting ~15" closer to the jack.

Ultimately mine clears just fine, and my jack was pretty close to the tongue. I did have to get a longer drop shank (not taller, just longer) to make it work.

The one place that I had an issue which surprised me was that on a very tight turn or when jackknifed backing up my spare tire would contact my propane cylinder. I think it would have been OK if the spare was perfectly vertical, but because it's tilted the bottom of the tire would make contact. I ended up moving the propane cylinders back about 3-4" and they seem to always clear now. On one hand I'd like the tire to be vertical since the lip of my wheel tends to collect and hold water, but I have made contact with the bottom of the spare on a V notch in Moab and being tilted was probably better for the departure angle.
So where is your jack on the trailer? That’s the part I’m worried about. I’m trying to picture how my propane tanks would be an issue before my jack is. Thank you for your reply, that’s insiteful.
 
So where is your jack on the trailer? That’s the part I’m worried about. I’m trying to picture how my propane tanks would be an issue before my jack is. Thank you for your reply, that’s insiteful.
On the front of the trailer! ;-)

Not the best photo, but I tried to boost the exposure so you can see. Without the extended shank the tire would have been really tight and made contact when turning. IIRC it's the Curt 17103, which is 14" on center from hitch hole to the stack of holes in the shank, but double check my old posts to confirm that. With my setup offset arms I think would've opened fine though in hindsight.

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On the front of the trailer! ;)

Not the best photo, but I tried to boost the exposure so you can see. Without the extended shank the tire would have been really tight and made contact when turning. IIRC it's the Curt 17103, which is 14" on center from hitch hole to the stack of holes in the shank, but double check my old posts to confirm that. With my setup offset arms I think would've opened fine though in hindsight.

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This is perfect. I have a Blue Ox setup as well. I’ll look at the Curt shank you are referring to. I had to get longer drop shank so curious what these dimension are vs what I have on my Blue Ox.
 

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