RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper (2 Viewers)

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I’ll take a look at that. Thank you
My Truckasaurus thread had pics of it right after it was painted. I’ll try to take some more now that it’s been a year. In general it’s help up well. There are a few tiny rust speckles in a few places particular around welded spots that aren’t flawlessly ground, but it’s not much different than a PC in my experience

POR15 is a bunch of work to do though. Etching solution, rinse, POR15 one or two thin coats, then POR top coat two coats. You can spray on the top coat but I just brushed the whole thing.
 
My Truckasaurus thread had pics of it right after it was painted. I’ll try to take some more now that it’s been a year. In general it’s help up well. There are a few tiny rust speckles in a few places particular around welded spots that aren’t flawlessly ground, but it’s not much different than a PC in my experience

POR15 is a bunch of work to do though. Etching solution, rinse, POR15 one or two thin coats, then POR top coat two coats. You can spray on the top coat but I just brushed the whole thing.
I have been looking at various videos on how to apply and my only question is did you put this directly onto bare metal. I know it’s called Paint Over Rust but does the process of doing the POR etching metal prep all for this with no effects down the road?
 
I have been looking at various videos on how to apply and my only question is did you put this directly onto bare metal. I know it’s called Paint Over Rust but does the process of doing the POR etching metal prep all for this with no effects down the road?
I etched, then did POR15 direct. So far it’s held up nicely. Time will tell though. You have to topcoat or the color will fade. Sand lightly between coats so that the next coat adheres
 
I etched, then did POR15 direct. So far it’s held up nicely. Time will tell though. You have to topcoat or the color will fade. Sand lightly between coats so that the next coat adheres
It definitely seems very strong if prepped correctly. I’ve seen people hitting it pretty hard with hammers and it doesn’t have any effect on it.
 
It definitely seems very strong if prepped correctly. I’ve seen people hitting it pretty hard with hammers and it doesn’t have any effect on it.
I scraped the bottom edge mine in Moab on rocks and it most definitely scratched right down to the metal. But it also marred the metal to the point where it’s sharp and grooved and needs to be ground smooth again. So I’m not sure any paint would’ve held up
 
I scraped the bottom edge mine in Moab on rocks and it most definitely scratched right down to the metal. But it also marred the metal to the point where it’s sharp and grooved and needs to be ground smooth again. So I’m not sure any paint would’ve held up
Yeah, not sure anything would have held up to that.
 
Just left Louisville, KY about an hour ago, did a turn and burn from Fort Leonard Wood, Mo. looks like I’m dropping this off to get media blasted and coated tomorrow. Looking forward to getting this on the wife’s 200

IMG_0490.jpeg
 
Just left Louisville, KY about an hour ago, did a turn and burn from Fort Leonard Wood, Mo. looks like I’m dropping this off to get media blasted and coated tomorrow. Looking forward to getting this on the wife’s 200

View attachment 3416101
Is that a no swing arm version?
 
If anyone else wants to replicate what I did for the pigtail splitter/extension the parts are below for posterity. The rest are just 4 and 6 way DT connectors
View attachment 2954468
View attachment 2954469
Hey @linuxgod I'm getting ready to build a similar harness as I move my bumper over to the new 200 (I just spliced into the OEM harness before). Good work here and thanks! I'd have never figured out what pins and seal parts I would need for the OEM connectors. I wish Toyota would just sell the pins and other bits with the connectors. They only seem to sell the pins with pig tails as harness repair parts but instead of $.29 for the pin, they want $9.00 for the pin/pigtail and then you end up with a splice/crimp in the wire.
 
Hey @linuxgod I'm getting ready to build a similar harness as I move my bumper over to the new 200 (I just spliced into the OEM harness before). Good work here and thanks! I'd have never figured out what pins and seal parts I would need for the OEM connectors. I wish Toyota would just sell the pins and other bits with the connectors. They only seem to sell the pins with pig tails as harness repair parts but instead of $.29 for the pin, they want $9.00 for the pin/pigtail and then you end up with a splice/crimp in the wire.
If you use different tail lights (ones that combine brake and turn) so the trailer 7 pin adapter just works as is you can probably get a 7-pin splitter and avoid everything I did. Not sure if Roadvision makes a suitable light assembly or if you’d have to source something else.

I definitely recommend moving the 7 pin harness into the bumper like I did if you ever plan to tow.
 
If you use different tail lights (ones that combine brake and turn) so the trailer 7 pin adapter just works as is you can probably get a 7-pin splitter and avoid everything I did. Not sure if Roadvision makes a suitable light assembly or if you’d have to source something else.

I definitely recommend moving the 7 pin harness into the bumper like I did if you ever plan to tow.
My road vision lights do combine brake and turn. All I think I’m doing with the extension is that I’m splicing into the extension and not the OEM wiring but I’m wiring it like I did before:
If you use different tail lights (ones that combine brake and turn) so the trailer 7 pin adapter just works as is you can probably get a 7-pin splitter and avoid everything I did. Not sure if Roadvision makes a suitable light assembly or if you’d have to source something else.

I definitely recommend moving the 7 pin harness into the bumper like I did if you ever plan to tow.
my road vision lights do combine brake and turn signals. All I think I’m doing with the premade harness set up changing where I splice into the wires. Rather than splicing into the OEM wiring. I’m simply splicing into that five wire extension part but I’m essentially wiring it like I did before:

IMG_3306.jpeg


I never thought about a trailer plug splitter, that would be slick. And I do mount the trailer plug on the bumper itself as Dissent had a cut out for it but unfortunately it’s on the passenger side which is still annoying. The splitter thing would allow relo to the driver side, but I’ll probably just keep it like it is
 
My road vision lights do combine brake and turn. All I think I’m doing with the extension is that I’m splicing into the extension and not the OEM wiring but I’m wiring it like I did before:

my road vision lights do combine brake and turn signals. All I think I’m doing with the premade harness set up changing where I splice into the wires. Rather than splicing into the OEM wiring. I’m simply splicing into that five wire extension part but I’m essentially wiring it like I did before:

View attachment 3449808

I never thought about a trailer plug splitter, that would be slick. And I do mount the trailer plug on the bumper itself as Dissent had a cut out for it but unfortunately it’s on the passenger side which is still annoying. The splitter thing would allow relo to the driver side, but I’ll probably just keep it like it is
Yeah if the lights support it I’d 100% get a splitter. but I’m lazy
 
After 60k miles of hard abuse, My tire swingout on my dual RLC bumper snapped off. Ive since then upgraded to a double shear hinge from 4xinnovations.

Double shear
 
After 60k miles of hard abuse, My tire swingout on my dual RLC bumper snapped off. Ive since then upgraded to a double shear hinge from 4xinnovations.

Double shear
Since I run my bike rack on the swingout this looks like a pretty good idea. Did you just weld it on yourself or farm that upgrade out?
 

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