I did not. I did not want to drill holes in the side of the bumper to attach it.
RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Willy beamin
- Start date
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Camera mounting and wiring, for those interested.
For the camera, I bought a 4"x2"x1" plastic "project" box from Amazon for a few bucks. I drilled the lid so the camera could mount flush, and I ran wires out the back. Sealed it with RTV.
For the wiring I used solid CAT6 for the +6V camera and +12V license plate lights. CAT6 is eight 23ga wires so I twisted the pairs together which effectively gives four 20ga wiring. I used a shielded RCA cable for the camera to handle V+ and V-, and then I connected the shield of the RCA cable to the bare "ground?" wire in the camera wiring harness in the trunk. Seems to work OK... there's I think a bit of quality loss but maybe I'm just paying more attention to it now.
I drilled/grinded a notch in the jerry can base plate (and painted it) to help route the wiring as unobtrusively as possible.
Edit: simple project box acquired at
Amazon product ASIN B0002BBQNM
For the camera, I bought a 4"x2"x1" plastic "project" box from Amazon for a few bucks. I drilled the lid so the camera could mount flush, and I ran wires out the back. Sealed it with RTV.
For the wiring I used solid CAT6 for the +6V camera and +12V license plate lights. CAT6 is eight 23ga wires so I twisted the pairs together which effectively gives four 20ga wiring. I used a shielded RCA cable for the camera to handle V+ and V-, and then I connected the shield of the RCA cable to the bare "ground?" wire in the camera wiring harness in the trunk. Seems to work OK... there's I think a bit of quality loss but maybe I'm just paying more attention to it now.
I drilled/grinded a notch in the jerry can base plate (and painted it) to help route the wiring as unobtrusively as possible.
Edit: simple project box acquired at
Amazon product ASIN B0002BBQNM
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This is the trailer plug I added, just to the right of the receiver hitch opening
I used this plug for the bumper and just made a 2" hole, then drilled the 4 bolt holes separately. I went with this model because it's much less deep than a standard plug, so I had no issues fitting it or worrying about the back of the 7-pin plug hitting the frame hitch cross-member.
Amazon product ASIN B075ZZJSW6
Downside is that the above uses a USCAR plug, so I had to buy one of those, along with a normal 7-pin socket for the other end so I can plug it into the OEM harness. But the total depth inside the bumper is maybe 3"
Amazon product ASIN B00MV0FG9W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EOWPOA
I may hard-wire the socket in the future but for now I like this as it allows me to unplug that socket and use the OEM one if I have an issue with the plug. I ended up moving the factory harness way up underneath so no risk of knocking it off now.
I used this plug for the bumper and just made a 2" hole, then drilled the 4 bolt holes separately. I went with this model because it's much less deep than a standard plug, so I had no issues fitting it or worrying about the back of the 7-pin plug hitting the frame hitch cross-member.
Amazon product ASIN B075ZZJSW6
Downside is that the above uses a USCAR plug, so I had to buy one of those, along with a normal 7-pin socket for the other end so I can plug it into the OEM harness. But the total depth inside the bumper is maybe 3"
Amazon product ASIN B00MV0FG9W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EOWPOA
I may hard-wire the socket in the future but for now I like this as it allows me to unplug that socket and use the OEM one if I have an issue with the plug. I ended up moving the factory harness way up underneath so no risk of knocking it off now.
Final photo. In the garage and complete... more or less.
I still need to track down the source of my groan/creak when the vehicle comes to a stop. Swing arms are tight and it does not sound like something clunking. I could try to get an iphone video but those never turn out IMO. I deflated the airbags so we'll see if that matters as I can hear them squeak a bit when I bounce on the bumper... but I don't think that's the sound I hear inside. I can also see that the passenger's side bumper may just *barely* touch whatever the black plastic thing is behind the bumper underneath the gas tank filler. On the driver's side I'm pretty sure it's fresh air for the A/C but I'm not sure what it is on the passenger's side. TBH any contact is likely my "fault" as I spaced the bumper down about 3/4" or maybe 1" at the rear wings as that looked more level to me... but perhaps slight body movement is the culprit there (though I'm surprised I don't hear anything when turning)
It's minor but one thing that annoys me is that I can see into the area behind the swing arm spindles. I bought a piece of 12x12 aluminum and I'm going to cut and bend that into 3-sides of a box (well a "bottom" and 2 sides) and paint black and then drill 2 small holes and mount those to the bumper behind the spindle. If I had a black or dark gray vehicle you probably couldn't even notice it.
I still need to track down the source of my groan/creak when the vehicle comes to a stop. Swing arms are tight and it does not sound like something clunking. I could try to get an iphone video but those never turn out IMO. I deflated the airbags so we'll see if that matters as I can hear them squeak a bit when I bounce on the bumper... but I don't think that's the sound I hear inside. I can also see that the passenger's side bumper may just *barely* touch whatever the black plastic thing is behind the bumper underneath the gas tank filler. On the driver's side I'm pretty sure it's fresh air for the A/C but I'm not sure what it is on the passenger's side. TBH any contact is likely my "fault" as I spaced the bumper down about 3/4" or maybe 1" at the rear wings as that looked more level to me... but perhaps slight body movement is the culprit there (though I'm surprised I don't hear anything when turning)
It's minor but one thing that annoys me is that I can see into the area behind the swing arm spindles. I bought a piece of 12x12 aluminum and I'm going to cut and bend that into 3-sides of a box (well a "bottom" and 2 sides) and paint black and then drill 2 small holes and mount those to the bumper behind the spindle. If I had a black or dark gray vehicle you probably couldn't even notice it.
Other random small upgrades I did...
I used some UHMW tape on the semi-circle wings where the t-handles for the swingouts lock in place, so that the T-handles don't drag across the paint. It seems to help them swing more smoothly as well. I might get some black UHMW in the future, instead of the opaque stuff which shows a bit. I also used a bit of it where the stops for the arms contact the bumper, to try and protect the paint from abuse
I added a couple 5/8" tall rubber feet to the swingout arms, just under the latch. 3/4" would've been perfect but I couldn't find the right height so I ended up just adding a washer as a spacer. I thought this would help reduce any flex the arms might encounter when they are locked together. For $5 I figured it wouldn't hurt
I also ended up replacing most of the 3/8" bolts with some 3/8" hex head ("socket button") black stainless steel bolts, along with the washers and nuts. 3/4" length was sufficient everywhere that James supplied 3/8" bolts, except the 4 bumper-to-wing bolts where 3/4" would've been sufficient but I needed ones that were a bit longer because I used some spacers. This wasn't strictly required but I preferred the "all black" look as opposed to the zinc-coated bolts.
I used some UHMW tape on the semi-circle wings where the t-handles for the swingouts lock in place, so that the T-handles don't drag across the paint. It seems to help them swing more smoothly as well. I might get some black UHMW in the future, instead of the opaque stuff which shows a bit. I also used a bit of it where the stops for the arms contact the bumper, to try and protect the paint from abuse
I added a couple 5/8" tall rubber feet to the swingout arms, just under the latch. 3/4" would've been perfect but I couldn't find the right height so I ended up just adding a washer as a spacer. I thought this would help reduce any flex the arms might encounter when they are locked together. For $5 I figured it wouldn't hurt
I also ended up replacing most of the 3/8" bolts with some 3/8" hex head ("socket button") black stainless steel bolts, along with the washers and nuts. 3/4" length was sufficient everywhere that James supplied 3/8" bolts, except the 4 bumper-to-wing bolts where 3/4" would've been sufficient but I needed ones that were a bit longer because I used some spacers. This wasn't strictly required but I preferred the "all black" look as opposed to the zinc-coated bolts.
For those installing one of these bumpers in the future, I wrote up a fairly extensive installation guide, which I've attached to this post.
(I wish there was a way to make this attachment sticky and easily visible for future installers, though I did send James a copy as well)
(I wish there was a way to make this attachment sticky and easily visible for future installers, though I did send James a copy as well)
Anyone have a recommendation for a highly durable (and ideally self-sticky) "pad" to put between the "stop" for the arms and the bumper base? I had stuck some UHMW tape in between but vibration from the arms seemed to rub off the top coat of the paint. I tried some (very) sticky foam which compressed but that seems to have mostly rubbed away and taken some of the paint with it. I'll sand and repaint but before doing so I'd like to find a durable solution for this.
(BTW I put rubber feet on the bottom of the arms by the latch to reduce flex, though even there I found the paint slowly wearing away due to the constant rubbing of the rubber. The tire and jerry carrier (when full of water) still vibrate over bumps in the road. I put some UHMW tape in that spot but I assume that will wear pretty quickly. I could try some thicker UHMW I have but being plastic I assume it'll eventually wear regardless)
(BTW I put rubber feet on the bottom of the arms by the latch to reduce flex, though even there I found the paint slowly wearing away due to the constant rubbing of the rubber. The tire and jerry carrier (when full of water) still vibrate over bumps in the road. I put some UHMW tape in that spot but I assume that will wear pretty quickly. I could try some thicker UHMW I have but being plastic I assume it'll eventually wear regardless)
I managed the read the entire pages and probably missed it… what’s the weight of this rear bumper with dual swing out?
I love the look of this bumper. I have a couple of questions that hopefully people can answer. Has anybody installed this setup and also towed a 5000 # or more trailer. I'm a little concerned with towing capacities/ axle when adding tongue weight and this. Does anybody have the weight of this bumper? I'd love to hear feedback on setups regarding towing if you have done that.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
Shipping info said 255# (including the pallets), so probably 200 or so on the truck. I didn't weigh it but it's not light.
Keep in mind 200# on the rear has a much larger impact on spring height and performance than 200# on the axle (not even including hanging a 90# tire off it, or 15 gallons of water/fuel). For most bumpers you'll need stiffer springs in the rear to compensate.
Yes I towed 6000# with it recently, Chicago to Colorado and back. It's heavy. My trailer tongue is about 900# but for reference unloaded my truck is 3540/3700# F/R but loaded I'm 3300/5420. Towed fine at 75mph. Biggest issue is making sure the trailer weight is balanced, but I've had to pay attention to that even before the bumper.
I did upgrade my rear springs as part of this project. Heavier springs is a necessity.
I needed a longer drop shank for my tow ball as the older one was too close. Even with this setup, on a hard right turn the tire will contact the propane cylinders and push them a bit, so I need to relocate them further back on the trailer frame by a couple inches. Also you may need to lengthen your trailer chains and extend the wiring if you use a longer shank.
Weight loaded for travel:
Camping north of Steamboat Springs. I tend to leave the swingarms open when at camp as I keep the cooler in the truck and we go in/out too often.
Setup with extended chains and longer hitch shank (Curt 17122, IIRC). I needed to extend my safety chains. With the 7-pin plug in the normal spot it would pull out on a left turn, but once I relocated it to near the center my trailer wiring plug fits fine and stays in without issue.
Reasonable clearance to open the swingarms, though in part that's because my arms were made to be equal length instead of the normal offset.
Thank you... very informative.
Still on the fence between Dissent and RLC.
Not sure the weight saving or extra quality justify the more than the double the price of RLC bumper... hmmm
I think my single swing is around 125 to 150. I could move either piece pretty easily.
I looked thru my build thread and no weight sadly.
I looked thru my build thread and no weight sadly.
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The $3k I saved was used to pay for gas for our summer road trip
I’m a fan of Dissent. Way back before I got the 200 I was looking at 100s and ended up on the Dissent page and saw some awesome stinger bumpers. I wish some of those had made it to the 200.
However I don’t think there is a quality difference. James’s welds are fine. Just two different value propositions. I think in fact that the RLC is more customizable, he’ll make you anything. Problem is there are three generations of both Lx and TLC, so that’s six models, and he made his pattern on a gen 1 TLC. That’s why not everything is perfect, as that is only one of the body styles. Especially the LX is more DIY because of this, the hatch and tailgate and lights (not to mention ahc pump) are all different from the pattern truck.
The Dissent bumper without the swing out is 110LB according to their website.
Tire carrier is 57LB and Jerry can basket holder is another 61LB --- total 228LB.
Perhaps I'm the ignorant one but where's the weight saving of using the lightweight aluminum bumper compare to the all-steel RLC?
Yeah i think James said 8 weeks for me but he delivered in just over 6.
In my experience the RLC will require a little tweaking and tuning for every individual setup. I had to make some adjustments to get the basket to fit without contact against the tailgate and I had to shorten the tailgate cables an inch or so, for instance. I also spaced the wing mounts down about an inch because I felt it didn’t look level (really inline with the body creases). It may be the at all options aside from perhaps ARB have the same issues, or it could be that James has limited LC/LX in the shop to work from. Either was I was fine with it given the cost but good for people to go into it knowing it might take a little effort to make it perfect.
I’d bet if someone wanted to bring their rig to James’ shop he’d make a perfect fit for their precise year and model. If you want an RLC and are within a day’s drive of Louisville, KY that would be a great option.
He was super to work with even via email.
