teejnut
SILVER Star
I feel like this is a better option as well. Where do you plan on splicing the video wires into the system? For power will you just use the reverse lights?
RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Willy beamin
- Start date
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Since I need access to the video my plan is to cut the existing 4-pin camera wire. That gives me Video+ and Video- (which I believe all the camera just do with a single RCA plug), and it gives me Ground and a triggered +6V.
You could just use the reverse light +12V or another circuit, but I didn't want my camera on (but unused) when I'm driving as I assume it'll shorten the life of the unit. So I ordered one of these which will step the voltage up from 6V to 12V and will put it inline with the +6V and Ground wires.
Amazon product ASIN B01L90B3RI
I bought two different cameras off Amazon. Going to try them, and I'll return one or both depending on the results.
Amazon product ASIN B083SF5VVN
I tried two different aftermarket backup cameras on my 2013 today and they both sucked. Video was all sorts of flickering and scrambled until I connected V- to the “shield” (relay just an unprotected wire) on the Toyota wiring harness. At that point it worked but the video still had a weird swirling going on. This was direct connected at the camera wiring harness plug, so not an artifact longer cable.
Video quality seemed otherwise pretty similar to the factory camera so I’d say there’s no great reason to swap camera otherwise.
Video quality seemed otherwise pretty similar to the factory camera so I’d say there’s no great reason to swap camera otherwise.
I'm not too surprised on the vid quality, as I think the front screen is pretty limiting. I am surprised that the video signal is having issues. I would bet its in the power source or a floating ground issue. I had similar with a 'shield' when doing the amplifier replacement. Unfortunately the 'shield' isn't at 'ground', it's like a private ground between the two components, and on my amp had some voltage drop to ground, so it was popping on that signal wire (it was the coax digital signal).
I did some research on published white papers looking for a magic component or circuit to control it, but didn't find any. A hypothesis I had was the grounding both sides of the shield would fix it, but I never deployed it by digging out the HU to do so. Instead I disconnected the shield entirely, and went with ground for the low side of all the signals.
I did some research on published white papers looking for a magic component or circuit to control it, but didn't find any. A hypothesis I had was the grounding both sides of the shield would fix it, but I never deployed it by digging out the HU to do so. Instead I disconnected the shield entirely, and went with ground for the low side of all the signals.
Could be the power source. I'm using a 6V to 12V converter. (technically a 5-11V to 12V converter)
Could be the camera. Both cameras I tried are very similar so it's entirely possible they're actually the same CCD/chip/whatever just from different Amazon sellers with different brand names.
Could be something specific to the backup camera circuit as well. First camera had a scrambled video when I connected it just like the OEM camera, but the picture became usable when I connected the V- line also to the "shield" in the OEM harness. (It's not really a shield, just a bare wire that seems to be looped down the jacket and back). I say usable but it had an odd video pattern which was like a ghosted version of those barber shop spinning signs underlayed on the video... definitely seemed like some sort of video noise.
In any case I can't see futzing with it right now as I've already spent a few hours and I need to get something working, so I'm just going to use the factory camera. I'm thinking about mounting it under the jerry can basket, and will just fab up a ~1/2" spacer so that I can run the camera wire underneath the basket. If anyone has done something similar I'd appreciate pics/ideas, and also any feedback if this is a bad location for some reason.
Yeah, I’ve extended the factory wire to the swingarm and used the oem camera there.
Made the mount / spacer out of a folded galvanized shingle. Should be pics earlier in this thread, but definitely on my build. I’ll go find some links.
Post in thread 'RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper'
RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rlc-rear-tire-carrier-swing-out-jerry-can-custom-fab-bumper.871580/post-13007355
<Edit - i'll add this location works great for day to day but as soon as you put a trasharoo on the tire, the view is blocked. I now have it under the tire, where it is never blocked.
RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rlc-rear-tire-carrier-swing-out-jerry-can-custom-fab-bumper.871580/post-13007355
<Edit - i'll add this location works great for day to day but as soon as you put a trasharoo on the tire, the view is blocked. I now have it under the tire, where it is never blocked.
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Thanks @grinchy, yeah I've seen that post.
Did you ever use these? I ordered a pair but bolt hole in the 1/8" ones is far too small (5/16 according to the specs). The 3/16 one seems like it might work as the eye diameter is 3/8, though I think I may still need to drill it a bit to make it 7/16 or 13/32 or something as the 3/8" bolt has a wider smooth section at the top. I'm not sure the cable size though and I hate to order another set and find out they won't work either...
Did you ever use these? I ordered a pair but bolt hole in the 1/8" ones is far too small (5/16 according to the specs). The 3/16 one seems like it might work as the eye diameter is 3/8, though I think I may still need to drill it a bit to make it 7/16 or 13/32 or something as the 3/8" bolt has a wider smooth section at the top. I'm not sure the cable size though and I hate to order another set and find out they won't work either...
teejnut
SILVER Star
I ordered them but the eyelets are too small. I ended up just buying 1/8 vinyl coated steel wire rope from Home Depot, plus ferrule/stop set and the swagging tool. Took me a few tries to get the length perfect.
I got 12.75” eye to eye / bolt. Mic says 3/32nd cabling.
Don’t forget your big flat magnet to control the cables.
Don’t forget your big flat magnet to control the cables.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Was wondering if anyone else had issues with the cable not tucking in when closing the tailgate. Great idea to use a magnet!
That was a tip from SQOD I think.
Also the cover fits over that bolt, I just wanted to show the hammer fitting and the new cable. Don’t cut the sleeve too much. . .
Also the cover fits over that bolt, I just wanted to show the hammer fitting and the new cable. Don’t cut the sleeve too much. . .
I think I’m rocking a big and small magnet. They appear to both be covered in iron bearing dust at the moment, but still doing their job on the cables. I had more cable creep after cutting them short, I think my new cable is not as stiff.
Any recommendations on an inexpensive crimper for this? Any chance I'll be able to reuse the one I used to crash 4-6AWG battery lugs or something? I can get a $12 wire/sleeve kit from Amazon but it seems like most of the crimpers I see on Amazon were pretty pricey.
I used a hammer.
Ok so I drilled the eyelets on the e-rigging swageless eyes I bought (along with @teejnut) and that worked. 7/16 hole doesn’t leave a ton of metal around the hole but I think it’ll be plenty strong. I clipped the cable right where the original connector ends and that was basically the perfect length.
I will need to do a spring swap but my bumper is done - camera, lights, trailer wiring, mud flaps, etc is complete. I’ll upload pics in the future
One thing I’m experiencing is that I get a groan noise as if something is rubbing or shifting, but only when I come to a compete stop, or first start to move again. If I gradually stop or start off slow it typically doesn’t happen. Easier to recreate when I brake and start hard, though it doesn’t always happen. I can’t find any place there is contact causing it. Wondering if anyone else has had this?
One thing I’m experiencing is that I get a groan noise as if something is rubbing or shifting, but only when I come to a compete stop, or first start to move again. If I gradually stop or start off slow it typically doesn’t happen. Easier to recreate when I brake and start hard, though it doesn’t always happen. I can’t find any place there is contact causing it. Wondering if anyone else has had this?
teejnut
SILVER Star
Have any pics of your mudflap setup? Or just using the piece that RLC provides?
I’ll take some in the AM. I just bought some cheap Rally Armor flaps, which are really just pre-cut ABS, then just trimmed a tad to fit the edge of the bumper, and drilled some holes to mount them to the original screw holes in the body.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Did you bother using the RLC trim piece at all?
