RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper (1 Viewer)

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You can continue the install without the 2nd bracket. I was in that position with an LX570 as I had to fab a bracket for the AHC pump side. Just make sure you're very happy with how it sits side to side before you cut the plastic bumper cover. Could always run for the week without the bumper cover too if you don't want to cut without confirmation, it's only cosmetic.

<I assume you'll be getting the replacement in a few days from RLC>
 
You can continue the install without the 2nd bracket. I was in that position with an LX570 as I had to fab a bracket for the AHC pump side. Just make sure you're very happy with how it sits side to side before you cut the plastic bumper cover. Could always run for the week without the bumper cover too if you don't want to cut without confirmation, it's only cosmetic.

<I assume you'll be getting the replacement in a few days from RLC>
I am continuing without the driver side bracket , thank you guys. Hopefully I'll get one soon before I start loading that side with Jerry cans
 
You can continue the install without the 2nd bracket. I was in that position with an LX570 as I had to fab a bracket for the AHC pump side. Just make sure you're very happy with how it sits side to side before you cut the plastic bumper cover. Could always run for the week without the bumper cover too if you don't want to cut without confirmation, it's only cosmetic.

<I assume you'll be getting the replacement in a few days from RLC>
I second the run for a week before cutting plastic notion. I actually did run for a week, then cut plastic, then realized it was crooked. So maybe run for 1.5 weeks if your me. Post up pics how it turns out. There is definitely not a huge amount of weight on those wing brackets, so should be fine for a few days
 
I am continuing without the driver side bracket , thank you guys. Hopefully I'll get one soon before I start loading that side with Jerry cans
1 alt option @KLF did on his wing brackets, basically if you use the one you have instead as the drivers side. It involves a bit of plastic fender cutting but it does works this way See his pics here


Post in thread 'RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper'
RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rlc-rear-tire-carrier-swing-out-jerry-can-custom-fab-bumper.871580/post-12469668
 
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Having pretty bad clearance issues..


This is the driver side swing out with the tailgate down.

Edit : I think I just need to shift the bumper to the driver side by switching where I bolted the rear brackets to the bumper
 
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Having pretty bad clearance issues..


This is the driver side swing out with the tailgate down.

Edit : I think I just need to shift the bumper to the driver side by switching where I bolted the rear brackets to the bumper
So the swingout is 'open' 90 degree to tailgate, and the tailgate 'sides' are not clearing the swingout? Or the sides clear, but the tailgate when folded down sits on the bumper ?
 
So the swingout is 'open' 90 degree to tailgate, and the tailgate 'sides' are not clearing the swingout? Or the sides clear, but the tailgate when folded down sits on the bumper ?
When the swingout is open and locked on the pin, the tailgate comes in contact with the jerry can swing out when it's lowered. I think I have to move the bumper to the driver side.


Question - when you guys mounted your bumper, in what orientation was the bumper in relation to the rear bracket mounts??


Here's how my passenger side is mounted : The bumper is mounted to the outside of the passenger rear bracket :

driver2.jpg
 
And here's my driver side, the bumper is mounted on the inside of the driver side mount :


How is everyone else mounting their bumper to the brackets ?

driver.jpg
 
I'll take a look in the morning for you @NoClue . The bumper should center left to right. I had some trouble with one corner and remember I had to put a big clamp on it to get is 'square' for tightening, it was the right (passenger) corner.
 
I've run into more problems. I don't think james sent me the updated jerry can holder that @DPA200 received after having clearance issues with the tailgate. Here's a pic of what I was sent , which you can see has vertical supports.

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Now here's what @DPA200 recieved as a reworked version, which you can see has angled supports that give the basket much more clearance from the tailgate :

InkedIMG_1413_LI.jpg


Inkedjerrycanholder2_LI.jpg
 
And here's my driver side, the bumper is mounted on the inside of the driver side mount :


How is everyone else mounting their bumper to the brackets ?

View attachment 2563013
I remember this left/right issue clearly now. This all ties back to those frame welds where the rear brackets slide onto the frame. If the welds are built up too heavy, the brackets can't push towards the sides of the truck as far as you need them. I know on @Mineral s install we had to do a couple of different rounds of grinding the welds before we could get the brackets pushed out to the sides far enough.
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The reason this matters is what the issue you are showing is caused by. Like @grinchy said the bumper should be centered left and right. The easiest way to tell if it's centered is by looking at the cutout for the hitch to see if the hitch is centered. The only way to achieve this is by having BOTH the brackets on the outside (towards the sides of the truck), and BOTH the bumper fin/mount thingys on the inside (towards the center of the truck). So, I imagine it'll make sense when you see these pics. It is incredibly hard to shove the bumper in with the brackets on the outside, but eventually, you'll get it. As I said, you may need to grind those frame welds down a bit more to push the brackets to the sides just a smidge. 1 thing to be aware of is if you do grind the welds, it's important to try to do both sides even amounts. If you grind 1 too much, the bumper may be slightly offset. On my install, we did zero weld grinding, but obviously, every weld is unique. We opted for the brute force method in the end. But it was a super tight fit, and I clearly remember trying the same mounting config you currently have (one bracket inside, one outside) because I figured there is just no way it could be this tight of a fit. But it is.

On mine once we got the bumper slid on to the brackets about half way, it basically felt like there was no way to get it pushed in further because it was so tight against the brackets. We ended up getting a mega ratchet strap out, attaching i think to the rear axle, and cranking and cranking as the bummer inched in. Then with the ratchet strap still tight, we tightened all the bolts, then took the strap off and everything stayed in place. So, not fun at all, was a 3 person job, but eventually, the end result was it is shoved in there so tight, it does not move at all hit after hit years later. There is just nowhere for it to move. Let me know if any of this is unclear, I'm sure there is other ways than the ratchet strap to make it happen, but the important part is you have to find a way that the brackets are outside, and the bumper is inside. I remember debating whether we should back the truck into a wall to try to push it in further, but the ratchet strap worked.

IMO the end goal should be to get the bumper-mounted as high up, and as far in as possible. Anything shy of that, as soon as you take your 1st big hit, it then has room to move. Like i mentioned, a couple years later mine has not budged and i thinks thats why
 
I've run into more problems. I don't think james sent me the updated jerry can holder that @DPA200 received after having clearance issues with the tailgate. Here's a pic of what I was sent , which you can see has vertical supports.

View attachment 2563241

View attachment 2563242
Here is what James did for me. Mine hit the tailgate when trying to latch the swing arm closed. I could technically latch it, but it was slightly pressing against the truck slightly denting it. James 1st sent me some metal spacers that shifted the basket a few inches back because i was about to leave for a CO trip. That worked fine for the trip but the weight was too far back with those heavy 3 jerry's. After i got back from my trip James had me send the whole basket back to him. He basically cut the basket portion off. Then he made a plate with slotted bolt holes for minor adjustments, and it is a full 1" further back from the tailgate. So the basket went from being a 1 piece design, to a 2 piece design. Now the legs just bolt to the basket instead of being welded, then both those parts bolt to the swing arm. The pic makes more sense than my description. The swing arm itself went unchanged, so you should still be able to put the empty arm on for now. Worked great though, no issues since i got the re-design. That 1" was the exact right amount.

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Getting ready to pull the trigger on this set-up. Reading and reading, but is there anything particular I should be ready for, or aware of?
 
I love the look of the dual, and there is more utility for carrying things on the left arm. I do use the 'small step' portion of the bumper pretty often, so I still like the single overall. I also like having the tire weight centered on the rig.

If I had it to do over again I'd put thought into how to carry a table, 5 gal propane cylinder, and trax with hard mounts on the bumper. I've had to fab these mounts, and with a bit of foresight it would have been much easier. As there is an underrig AUX tank available now that is a better fuel solution than a bunch of Jerry's or pax.. For example, a set of vertical supports with spaced holes would allow mounting various items beside the tire to the right (passenger). Something like this smittybuilt accessory, but to the side of the tire. . .

Really, the A arm supports would be much easier to use if they were square instead - though that would come with a weight penalty. <edit: I mean not in a triangle shape, but orthogonal, it's troublesome to make brackets on the angled surface>

Right now the bumper arm is very close to the hatch/tailgate - like 1/2" at the closest, so I can't put much 'behind' it. If there was three inches there that could be used for a lot of stuff (pax, table, chairs, trax). Of course, the trade off is then the tire is way out over the bumper and even more disruptive to COG etc. Probably better to have the tire as close as possible, as it's always there, and always weighs 100 lb, but when I see other bumpers and see the stuff they have between the tire and rig I get a bit jealous.

J121802.jpeg
 
Getting ready to pull the trigger on this set-up. Reading and reading, but is there anything particular I should be ready for, or aware of?

Installing this bumper is really a lot of DIY, so be prepared for that. I would do a full install to check fitment BEFORE applying any paint or powdercoat. It would suck to pay $$$ to have it powdercoated, then find later you have to do some grinding on it to get it to fit.

The returns at the wheels take some fiddling to get right, and you're on your own to figure out a way to bolt them up. You'll also have to come up with some type of mudflap.
 
Installing this bumper is really a lot of DIY, so be prepared for that. I would do a full install to check fitment BEFORE applying any paint or powdercoat. It would suck to pay $$$ to have it powdercoated, then find later you have to do some grinding on it to get it to fit.

The returns at the wheels take some fiddling to get right, and you're on your own to figure out a way to bolt them up. You'll also have to come up with some type of mudflap
Excellent, all awesome info. I just pulled my stock mud flaps off, as they were half torn off and pulling the bumper off after my last trip.
 
Hey @NoClue here are some pics and measurements from the 2-piece design jerry basket. Let me know if I'm missing any particular measurement you may need.

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