RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper
- Thread starter Willy beamin
- Start date
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These are the seals that fit on the bottom, they are a very common size:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8OFJ6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The bearings are also a standard size for a 1" trailer axle shaft. I believe this whole kit would do the entire spindle:
https://www.amazon.com/Martin-Wheel...416618&sr=1-1&keywords=trailer+wheel+bearings
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8OFJ6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The bearings are also a standard size for a 1" trailer axle shaft. I believe this whole kit would do the entire spindle:
https://www.amazon.com/Martin-Wheel...416618&sr=1-1&keywords=trailer+wheel+bearings
I am happy to also report that I have completed installing the filler plates and some mudflaps, it was a lot of work (because I am a fussy OCD SOB), but they really came out great. And, last night I re-installed the parking sensors (after lengthening the harness) and they are working fine.
These are the mudflaps I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6CLDJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It took a lot of trial and error fitting, cutting (I used my bandsaw), and some careful drilling using the old mudflaps as a pattern. These are very stiff plastic with a plate at the bottom that is stainless steel, I like the ribbed face of them that faces the tire, it directs the splash down and they seem to not get as dirty. These are about 5-6" shorter than the factory mudflaps. I ordered the nice factory torx-style screws to install them.
Before and after cutting the mudflaps to fit:
New compared to original:
Filler plate installed, after trimming a little, blasting, painting. I attached them with #10-24 stainless heax cap screws, with threadserts in the fillers. I put black RTV between the plate and bumper so dirt can't get trapped in there and cause corrosion.
And mudflap finally installed:
These are the mudflaps I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6CLDJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It took a lot of trial and error fitting, cutting (I used my bandsaw), and some careful drilling using the old mudflaps as a pattern. These are very stiff plastic with a plate at the bottom that is stainless steel, I like the ribbed face of them that faces the tire, it directs the splash down and they seem to not get as dirty. These are about 5-6" shorter than the factory mudflaps. I ordered the nice factory torx-style screws to install them.
Before and after cutting the mudflaps to fit:
New compared to original:
Filler plate installed, after trimming a little, blasting, painting. I attached them with #10-24 stainless heax cap screws, with threadserts in the fillers. I put black RTV between the plate and bumper so dirt can't get trapped in there and cause corrosion.
And mudflap finally installed:
Looks bomb @KLF . Great work. Love the fitment and additional attachment points you put in the fillers. Nice detail.
I had to update my bolts to stainless too, the 'black oxide' socket head I got off Amazon rusted in a couple weeks. So I got the assortment of stainless bolts I should have bought in the first place and put them on.
I had to update my bolts to stainless too, the 'black oxide' socket head I got off Amazon rusted in a couple weeks. So I got the assortment of stainless bolts I should have bought in the first place and put them on.
Do you get any flex in the rear bumper? Only thing I'd be afraid of is the bumper moving differently than the plastic bumper cover that's left. If the mudflap is tying the two together with that top screw, one of them has to give. I'd anticipate in that case that movement from the top screw would end up rounding out the bumper cover hole or cause the cover to pop loose.
Oofff... You know, that's a great point, thanks.
Yeah, the original mud flap was also attached there, which is why I went there. But this new one is much more rigid, and certainly this bumper is too.
Ok, I can fix this easily by opening up the hole some, maybe to 1/2", then leaving the screw a little loose. I'm less worried about the flex of the remaining bumper cover than I am with the black support parts underneath that they clip to. I just replaced both of those ($40 each).
So I talked to James and i think I'm gonna order my rear bumper tomorrow. Can somebody give me this measurement? I usually tow a offroad trailer that has a nose box (MOAB Fort XL with a Max coupler). I just want to see if the swing out is gonna hit the nose box when i open it
RET2
SILVER Star
Standby I'll go measure mine.
RET2
SILVER Star
OK mine is 4'1" but that may be able to change if you ask James, he can I think shorten it?
If you just need to open the back window you only have to put it out about a 1/3 of the way. To open the tailgate it has to open fully.
cool, I'll have to go check in the morning how long my hitch and nose of the trailer is. If not, I believe i heard max coupler has some sort of extension. Thanks for getting back to me so quick!
RET2
SILVER Star
FYI on mine you have to be careful of the position of the T handle on the drop pin when lowering the tailgate. This can be avoided by replacing the T handle with a ball handle. As previously stated that measurement may be able to be reduced by 6" or so by shortening the arm and moving latch
That's good to know. I usually open the tailgate completely...but a good percentage of that time i could probably just open the top. Mainly just trying to see if, when i get to camp, would i have to detach the trailer in order to open the tailgate? When i'm just staying places for 1 night, i usually leave the trailer hitched to save time the next day in packout
I had some related trouble with the T handle collet and T handle tightness. I could tighten the t handle in the right position (i
A ball handle would of course also work too and avoid the need for orientation fixing.
Edit - Mine doesn't interfere with the gate in any position, I just could grab it easier in this orientation
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Sounds like a ball handle might help out, but for the life of me I can’t picture what that looks like. My trailer has a swing out tire, and it’s got the same T handle latch as this
I went and looked, I have it fixed perpendicular, and it works fine. No interference. A ball would just have a shorter axis and could fix a clearance problem if there was one.
You mind taking a photo tomorrow? I’m having a hard time picturing
there in the darkness
Houston, I think we might have a problem. Just hitched the trailer this morning, and I'm not even close. The propane tank on the nose of my trailer is only 24" from the back of the tailgate. Anybody have any ideas? Or is there basically no way for me to ever have a swingout as long as i have this trailer? I wonder if a dual swingout would come close to clearing this? Total bummer, I'm all ready to order but this would be a total pain to not be able to open the tailgate without detaching the trailer completely.
RET2
SILVER Star
You're correct you will have a problem. That means it's decision time, trailer (as it exists) or swing out. Access to the interior appears to be compromised with the trailer attached IMHO.
