So interesting how my tire carrier is an a-frame and these others are single pole.
RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper
- Thread starter Willy beamin
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- Thread starter
- #302
james switched it up after I asked for two additional supports to be welding on which helped steady the tire wiggle - thus an a frame was born
That was a nice addition I think. Haven't had any issues, but I like the A pillar.
- Thread starter
- #304
really any shop or home welder could add those. then just rattle can the new additions to match. if you have no issues then god bless you my son
Oba bracket mockup.
Bonus it fills the bumper cover section I mistakenly cut out.
Bonus it fills the bumper cover section I mistakenly cut out.
Mine has a couple of diagonal braces on it too. But, no gas can carrier, just a flat horizontal plate with 4 holes in it, and tabs for hanging the license plate. Not sure how I'm gonna use that. Maybe a mobile cappuccino maker...
There should be a post on a plate to mount to your carrier plate. My post had a couple pax mounts on it. There are pics a couple pages back.
Oh I saw those, yes thanks. I just am not keen on carrying gas jugs like that, would prefer to just invest in a LRA aux tank instead.
Well then the possibilities are endless!
Another question: anybody with the rear swingout installed ever also carried a full sheet of plywood? Were you able to latch the swingout?
It occured to me the other day when I had to transport an 8' long folding table that with the upper gate not fully latched, the swingout may be an issue. I have carried plywood and drywall in my truck several times, it would be a problem for me if I was no longer able to do that. I always just shove them as far forward as possible, put a piece of XPS foam on the top edge of the lower tailgate, then a blanket and tie down the upper gate with a rope.
It occured to me the other day when I had to transport an 8' long folding table that with the upper gate not fully latched, the swingout may be an issue. I have carried plywood and drywall in my truck several times, it would be a problem for me if I was no longer able to do that. I always just shove them as far forward as possible, put a piece of XPS foam on the top edge of the lower tailgate, then a blanket and tie down the upper gate with a rope.
Now there's a use case I didn't consider. I think I'd go roof rack for sheetgoods
Keeping the discussion in this thread, this is how I got a durable waterproof cover on the spindle for my swingout (yet to be installed).
The folks that installed my bumper put a chunk of rubber with the zip ties over the spindle, but it was definitely not weatherproof and would not last the winter. So the other day I pulled off the plastic side cover and the crude cap the made, this is what I found:
Unfortunately the PO of my bumper didn't scrape off all the powdercoat from the spindle and just pressed the bearing on. It was not coming off with a simple pry bar. I contacted Jim at RLC, and he confirmed that the bearings and bottom seal is a standard issue part for a trailer hub with a 1" axle shaft, very easy to find replacements. He said it should easily slide on and off. So, I trashed the bottom seal, and out came the 2-arm puller:
I found a piece of scrap 1-1/4" PVC pipe, glued a cap on the end, and made a cap to go over the spindle. I was able to tap some threads into the existing hole in the very end for a very short 1/4-20 flathead screw, to hold the cap down:
The folks that installed my bumper put a chunk of rubber with the zip ties over the spindle, but it was definitely not weatherproof and would not last the winter. So the other day I pulled off the plastic side cover and the crude cap the made, this is what I found:
Unfortunately the PO of my bumper didn't scrape off all the powdercoat from the spindle and just pressed the bearing on. It was not coming off with a simple pry bar. I contacted Jim at RLC, and he confirmed that the bearings and bottom seal is a standard issue part for a trailer hub with a 1" axle shaft, very easy to find replacements. He said it should easily slide on and off. So, I trashed the bottom seal, and out came the 2-arm puller:
I found a piece of scrap 1-1/4" PVC pipe, glued a cap on the end, and made a cap to go over the spindle. I was able to tap some threads into the existing hole in the very end for a very short 1/4-20 flathead screw, to hold the cap down:
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RET2
SILVER Star
You found nada?
Sorry, hit the Post button too quickly.
Anyway, a quick few coats of Krylon, some silicone sealant, all done. I smeared a healthy coat of "Green Grease" (most waterproof grease I've ever used) over the spindle before putting the cap on.
Next project is to get the end filler plate installed, then mudflaps. I found some really nice Husky mudflaps that are kinda pricey, but they are gonna work out really nicely.
Anyway, a quick few coats of Krylon, some silicone sealant, all done. I smeared a healthy coat of "Green Grease" (most waterproof grease I've ever used) over the spindle before putting the cap on.
Next project is to get the end filler plate installed, then mudflaps. I found some really nice Husky mudflaps that are kinda pricey, but they are gonna work out really nicely.
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I actually started with a piece of 2" PVC and a cap, but it just looked too big, didn't tuck into that cavity without cutting. The stuck bearing bothered me anyway. I already have a replacement seal on the way, only $10 for a pair of them.
I haven't hung the swingout yet, but I suspect you are correct that I will need to trim more of the plastic if and when I do.
It's surprisingly easy to pop off those cut side pieces, takes only a few seconds and a screwdriver. I found a broken bracket under the passenger side, not sure how that happened (there was traces of glue where someone tried to glue it back together, which didn't work). Another bracket is ordered now.
I haven't hung the swingout yet, but I suspect you are correct that I will need to trim more of the plastic if and when I do.
It's surprisingly easy to pop off those cut side pieces, takes only a few seconds and a screwdriver. I found a broken bracket under the passenger side, not sure how that happened (there was traces of glue where someone tried to glue it back together, which didn't work). Another bracket is ordered now.
RET2
SILVER Star
Another thing to watch for is the position of the T handle pin pull. On my install I noticed that it must be positioned just so to let the tailgate down fully. If I don't adjust it correctly it could bend the edge of the tailgate. Just lower your tailgate slowly the first time to see if there is any interference. I will try to take a pic later today. Not a big deal if you are aware of it.
I had to blue loctite the t handle. It kept loosening /spinning when I was tightening the ring in, and thus could rattle or worse, rotate into a position where I couldn't reach it behind the spindle. I don't think it's long enough on mine to get into the tailgate. I have about one finger on each side of the T, and it is wElded right to the spindle housing.
RET2
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I think the position of the stop hole determines if there will be a conflict?
