RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper

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They are Slee Sliders. I picked them up a couple months back from Christo along with the Sahara bumper while traveling thru town. With the limited 570 support from aftermarket vendors, these were all that I could find plus the boss/wife wanted to retain a step on this rig rather than a typical tube option so all worked well. These are a complete bolt-on solution that only required one nutzert to be installed on the driver's side so super easy. Granted, these are not as beefy as what I'm accustomed too but I will not be rock-crawling in this rig, just wanted protection from an occasional ledge slide or boulder crossing. They have been a perfect to solution to my particular needs for this rig. I did not replace the rocker covers with the LC versions as his instructions recommend, I simply took apart the steps on the rig and trimmed the plastic once all the other parts were removed and out of the way. No need to pull them completely off and made for an easy sight picture for marking and trimming to keep the contour consistent. I do plan to trim just a bit more off the rocker covers where you can see a shadow line at the ends which should clean up the appearance a bit.
 
@milemarker60 sure. I understand what you did, you moved the AHC stuff up above the fender support bracket. I was just curious how it looked. I like the idea, as it puts that stuff above the rub line of frame to rail. I know the standoff of which you speak, I have had it open a few times fitting up the U-bolt.

Do the slee sliders just reuse the 9 bolts that the stock rod based slider utilize?
 
The Slee sliders simply bolt to existing weld nuts in the frame where the old protection pipes were attached. There is one nutzert that will need to be installed on the driver’s side of the frame but that’s it. Super simple install procedure. Toughest part is figuring what combination of extensions and swivels you’ll use for a few of the bolts.
 
Toughest part is getting Slee to make some more :)

Why, we have 200 series sliders in stock.

As for LX570, here is the story, as of today, we had two sets to ship. We are calling customers that is on the list based on the date they inquired. Pretty sure these two will not last long. We now have instructions done.

The issue we ran into is that we were forced to move all our sheet metal slider production to a new facility (same issue that is affecting bumper supply) and with that, we are experiencing delays.

We will be posting installation instructions later today.
 
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Ahc workaround second attempt. This is a bit awkward as I don’t weld and can’t bend steel either. V1 on tightening pulled the bumper wing down, and I’d already cut the trim. So the focus here was to keep the support horizontal from wing to frame. The frame is 3/4 inch or so below the bumper wing. To make it fun, the location for the u bolt is where the frame starts to pitch up a bit, so it’s on a 15 degree angle or so, and the bumper wing isn’t. I reused the 3/8 plate, this version is all below the frame and thus could use a full width plate with no cuts. It’s be stronger for sure. The drop was accomplished with 0.25 1 1/2 angle.

I’d recommend all Lx owners instead deploy @milemarker60 solution.

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Bumper wheel well covers. I got tiny 2-56 stainless screws and tried to tap the aluminum well covers. Worked for 7 of 10. The others stripped and I used 2-56 sheet metal on those. I just didn’t want big heads on the wing. It just cosmetic they’re strong enough. Need to fit some portion of the mudguard tomorrow; headed off road this weekend.

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Seems like a good application for pop rivets.
 
I'm not Willy but I cut mine off as well and have no discernible difference in tone or decibel inside. Same results on our 100-series with the resonator delete.
 
No difference in sound that i could hear
 
No smells. Leave your stock hanger in place. Cut behind th resonator.
 
Hung the swingarm this weekend.

Have a camera relo question. Is there an accessible place to tap the wire before it goes into the hatch? I’m playing with the idea of using two cams, and switching the signal between them. I’m pretty sure my swingarm will be off 70% of time.

I found a 6v camera finally. Also considering using a ptp WiFi camera to phone app solution.

Edit reread some thread. @RET2 do you remember the wire location color in the side panel? Passenger side?
 
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I reused the rear mudflaps by trimming at the old fender line. Eventually I’ll put some studs in the wing cover to stiffen them some more. They seem fine, been on for a few weeks.

The swing arm pad lock spot/ plate on the swing arm isn’t far enough away from the bumper, so closed is about 1/2” from where it would be symmetrical/ fully shut. Not a functional issue and I doubt a casual observer would notice. I would like some space to put in a rubber shim, the metal metal contact rubs my finish off pretty quick.

The wheel studs fit perfect, but are Not deep enough in the plate/ unthreaded bit protrudes too far, so the lugs bottom out before getting tight. I put a washer on the bottom lug and that hold all three fine. I may try to grind them down some, but really don’t want to have to recoat just now.

I used just a tiny bit more than a quart of the rtg bed liner finish.

Still the lightest cheapest best clearance swing arm option.

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