RHD FJ62 V8 Engine Dreams (1 Viewer)

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G'day all, and a happy new wheeling year!

I've been reading up on LS engine swap threads for a couple months now, and if it weren't for this great resource, I wouldn't be contemplating starting this thread. Hopefully, hopefully, this may become another engine swap thread. Researching this forum the swap threads seem to have peaked quite a few years ago, maybe because it was all new back then? The info shared then is still very relevant now as our trucks seem to go on and on, and upgrading / swapping mostly hinges on parts availability. Before I explain my first question below, just wondering if the more experienced swappers out there have any thoughts about what they would do different these days, use new products etc etc?

Anyway, I'm narrowing in on a generally well-documented swap because I want something that is a fun result, proven to work and be as reliable as possible. Our right hand drive FJ62 with 3F petrol engine, H55F and 4.1 diff from 1988 has 370,000 km on the clock but runs great and reliably. As many others have said before, just a bit slow, gruntless, and getting older. We want to use the truck for wheeling and light off-road use as in touring parts of Australia, occasionally towing a camper trailer. Realistically if we can get another 100-150 thousand kms out of her, we'll probably be grey and old ourselves by then ;). Soo, looking at putting in an LS V8, possibly importing a Vortec 5.3L truck engine, or sourcing a suitable LS from a Holden car. 4L60e and adapter to mate to stock t-case.

While it's been done many times before, I haven't been able to find much info about driveline dimension changes. As the truck came with a long range tank fitted behind the t-case, I have started to take some measurements myself. I hung some plumb lines under the car and reckon the measurements have an accuracy of about 5mm, enough for this purpose. The drawing below will hopefully be useful for others as well.

I found some numbers on the length of the Vortec and 4L60e that I have included in the drawing for comparison, 730mm and 610mm respectively. My question here is, are these numbers okay, and how much variation is there between different models of the engine and transmission? By the looks of it, the new combination gives me a total of 1512 mm up to the point where things would bolt on to the t-case, vs 1355 mm as-is. I might just have enough space behind the t-case to place it back by the difference of 157 mm, but certainly not more.

Anyone who wants to chime in?

Drive line dimensions.png
 

AussieHJCruza

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Wouldn't you be moving the engine forward?an LS is a lot shorter front to rear than an I6


Edit: ignore me, I should have read the diagram properly...yes she's getting an auto too. Btw if you put an @ in front of the username, like @Cruisunder they'll get a notification
 
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Wouldn't you be moving the engine forward?an LS is a lot shorter front to rear than an I6


Edit: ignore me, I should have read the diagram properly...yes she's getting an auto too. Btw if you put an @ in front of the username, like @Cruisunder they'll get a notification
Thanks, I’ll try the @ trick! Aussie as well?
 

MANUCHAO

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My question here is, are these numbers okay, and how much variation is there between different models of the engine and transmission?
On the engine side, not much any 4.8 through 6.0 on the Gen III flavor is identical in physical size....
On the transmission side the 4L60E has different lengths depending on the year and other models are different in length and width...
I never measured the length of the drive train, but sure can and could confirm the numbers you posted above.

With that said, some have used the stock location of the TC as the engine fit at the front can be place further towards the radiator or the fire wall.... Depending on whether you use a mechanical or electrical fan....

Have you considered moving the aux fuel tank a bit backwards if needed be? (You might want to install a 6 speed AT tranny. I would try and keep the current H55, but I don't know what your wants/needs are)
Hope this helps any...!!!
 
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Given you have the H55f and are planning on going to the 4l60e I don't think there is any way that you can keep the stock location. That may be a different story if you had the A440. If you are going forward with a swap why is keeping the stock location that important, just move your mounts...
 
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Great feedback, thanks to all! To clarify, I’m happy to relocate the TC in favor of more important considerations as others have argued before. Just trying to understand the extent of everything that will need to move by taking measurements of the “current” and comparing that to the “new”. I don’t have an engine or transmission yet, so I’m seeking specific information about engine and transmission length.

I read this a few days ago when you first posted it and am still not sure what you're actually asking?
Sorry used too many words ;) , hope this clarifies.

On the engine side, not much any 4.8 through 6.0 on the Gen III flavor is identical in physical size....
On the transmission side the 4L60E has different lengths depending on the year and other models are different in length and width...
I never measured the length of the drive train, but sure can and could confirm the numbers you posted above.

With that said, some have used the stock location of the TC as the engine fit at the front can be place further towards the radiator or the fire wall.... Depending on whether you use a mechanical or electrical fan....

Have you considered moving the aux fuel tank a bit backwards if needed be? (You might want to install a 6 speed AT tranny. I would try and keep the current H55, but I don't know what your wants/needs are)
Hope this helps any...!!!
Great, if the engine sizes are all the same, this eliminates a variable. Can someone confirm if 730mm for engine size is correct?

Decision to go auto and remove the H55 is a combination of drive-ability for my wife, as well as for optional cruise control.

Can move aux tank if needed but prefer not to. Would therefore like to confirm length of transmission. As you mention different lengths, is it feasible to look for a model / year that will allow me to leave the tank as is?

6 speed sounds interesting because it will make for better driving, assuming similar 1st and OD ratios. Erring on the more widely proven swap of the 4L60, unless swapping in a 6 speed isn’t any more difficult?

I don’t see how the TC location could be preserved if the engine/trans/adapter adds almost 160mm to the length, so my starting point was to place the front of the engine as current, and predict changes towards the rear of the truck.

May want to look into oil pan and exhaust manifold clearance if trying to keep stock TC location as well
I thought people were still putting in shallow pans when moving the TC?
 

rhah

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you want pics? Or what?

Slam You t case where stock is and move some motor mounts and be done

Or place the motor where you want and move your cross memeber and make drive shafts

wish you were closer, LS swaps are not that complicated just scary at first

find an f body oil pan, and no headers needed since your going auto trans
 
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you want pics? Or what?

Slam You t case where stock is and move some motor mounts and be done

Or place the motor where you want and move your cross memeber and make drive shafts

wish you were closer, LS swaps are not that complicated just scary at first

find an f body oil pan, and no headers needed since your going auto trans
Scary but I like a challenge, so I’m planning to convince myself (how) it can be done. Son is a mechanic which helps too ;).

I want measured length of transmissions, as that determines my options. If all auto transmisssions are 610mm / 24” as per my diagram, leaving the TC at its current location would put the engine in the radiator, so the only option would be to go the drive shaft route. If shorter transmissions can be had, maybe it would be possible.
 

rhah

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Scary but I like a challenge, so I’m planning to convince myself (how) it can be done. Son is a mechanic which helps too ;).

I want measured length of transmissions, as that determines my options. If all auto transmisssions are 610mm / 24” as per my diagram, leaving the TC at its current location would put the engine in the radiator, so the only option would be to go the drive shaft route. If shorter transmissions can be had, maybe it would be possible.
Cut your stock mounts out, put your motor where you want it, weld new mounts and install a new crossmember. Not as bad as you think, you’ll spend more time on wiring than the motor install.

any local driveline shop will be able to make you new drive shafts easy enough. Or most big rig repair shops mess with driveshafts And can do it
 

Kleatus

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Since I have been piling up some swap parts and measuring stuff for myself....
Here is an LM7 5.3 Truck engine (front accessory drive package can vary among car vs. truck, year, etc.). Not sure what you have available over there but the arrangement shown here is very common here for swaps. The fan is not attached here, and if used would add some.
20210107_175446.jpg
20210107_175431.jpg


Here is a 4l60 (2000 model to be specific). The rear housing is removed for the adapter. I believe your drawing above references the adapter length for the earlier (integral bellhousing) 4l60. If you use a 4l60 that comes with a donor LS you'd need the other 4l60 adapter. This is about 565.
20210107_175329.jpg


For comparison, here is the length of an A440 with tailhousing (about 670).
20210107_175212.jpg


And the whole package: 920 from bellhousong to rear face of drive flange. (In case you want to investigate placement for the use of stock length driveshafts from an automatic truck.)
20210107_174803.jpg
 
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Since I have been piling up some swap parts and measuring stuff for myself....
Here is an LM7 5.3 Truck engine (front accessory drive package can vary among car vs. truck, year, etc.). Not sure what you have available over there but the arrangement shown here is very common here for swaps. The fan is not attached here, and if used would add some. View attachment 2546949View attachment 2546951

Here is a 4l60 (2000 model to be specific). The rear housing is removed for the adapter. I believe your drawing above references the adapter length for the earlier (integral bellhousing) 4l60. If you use a 4l60 that comes with a donor LS you'd need the other 4l60 adapter. This is about 565. View attachment 2546953

For comparison, here is the length of an A440 with tailhousing (about 670).
View attachment 2546954

And the whole package: 920 from bellhousong to rear face of drive flange. (In case you want to investigate placement for the use of stock length driveshafts from an automatic truck.)
View attachment 2546955
Brilliant, thanks @Kleatus that is what i was looking for! At 680-ish mm the LM7 is 50 mm shorter than what I had in my drawing, so that helps a lot at the rear end.
The trans is also shorter (565mm) than what I thought (610mm).

Good pickup re. adapter length. This info came off the drawing for the 1997 and up model ( 50-0408A : 1997 & up GM 4L60E/ 4L65E 4 speed automatic transmission to the 1980-89 Land Cruiser 19 Spline transfer case,adapter kit. | Advance Adapters - https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/50-0408a--1997--up-gm-4l60e-4l65e-4-speed-automatic-transmission-to-the-1980-89-land-cruiser-19-spline-transfer-caseadapter-kit/ ) but I forgot to add the 6 to 4 bolt adapter ring which isn’t in the drawing but adds an additional 20-30mm.

Does anyone know if the Marks adapter has a different length?

Edit: Marks’ looks to be the same.
 
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Elbert

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Does the shop that makes "Mark's Adapters" not reside in Australia? I'm not the biggest fan of those, but thats what I ran and have now (and will use until it explodes or I do something else. I'm not sure of the impact of the aux fuel tank you have so I don't know. With the marks adapter, the adapter places the engine where no drivetrain mods need to happen (for manual transmission). Again you will likely need to have a custom crossmember setup.


For gas engine (I live in the USA). I would use a 5.3 or 6.0 GM V8 married to the corresponding GM automatic transmission, and then your transfer case of choice (look at advance adapters for "adapters" to mate the FJ60 transfer case to the transmission. There are a number of swaps here on the board that reflect that approach.

At the time of my swap I used a GM 5.7 Vortec V8 (because that was what I could find) a toyota 5 speed manual transmission and marks adapter, and the FJ60 transfer case.

As noted I recommend the newer GM V8 family of engines 5.3 or 6.0 GM truck engine with matching auto transmission. When or if I modify my swap I will use the same advice I'm giving out...a 5.3 / 6.0 gas engine / with matching GM auto transmission and likely a advance adapters "adapter" then to split case FJ60 transfer case.
 
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Elbert

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for cooling I use OEM style 4 core brass tank type radiator, custom fan shroud, GM fan clutch and GM gan clutch fan that mates to your engine or something that works (in my case the marks adapter) puts my 5.7 vortec rather close to the radiator but there is just enough clearance to use a fan clutch fan as noted. My engine is from a 1999 GMC Yukon and so my fan clutch and fan match that engine, and I use all the GM (general motors) OEM (original equipment manufacture) accessories / fan drive/ belts, AC compressor etc. I would do the same with GM 5.3 or 6.0. I also would run a big auto trans cooler as well if I had auto transmission, in my case I don't, since I'm running a manual transmission. I think the 6.0 and 5.3 gas engines are of a better design than the older 5.7 family of engines. I also would set the engine where you have some reasonable clearance between the firewall and you give yourself enough room to clear the radiator core. and as high in the engine bay ....just enough clearance to close the hood.

you likely have studied this....but I think this is a very good thread and what I will do next time....

I also would not re-invent the wheel, stay with a setup that mirrors a GM pickup or SUV (if thats your choice of engine) and so you can get parts etc and or if something just does not work you will have something to look at with regard to references (here on mud, or shop manuals etc).
 
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