Resurrecting a warped door card (1 Viewer)

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staggrlee

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Jul 29, 2008
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Location
Seattle, WA
My door cards are generally in very good shape but the PO had removed the vapor barrier from the driver's door and it had gotten wet at some point causing the card to warp and bow pretty severely at the base of the card farthest from the hinge.

I'd ordered a new master switch and removed the card to install it and decided I'd try to correct that. I removed the map pocket and after a shampoo of the fabric areas, I placed a wet, wrung out towel over the back of the pressboard and hit it with a very hot iron until the board was good and damp, but not wet.

Sandwiched the card between some boards and weighted it down overnight and it's now back to 90%. There was no way to get the speaker grill off without destroying it so I couldn't get even pressure across the entire lower portion of the card so there's still a bit of bow there but clips and grab handle should snug it up. Worth a try before chucking a door card and replacing.

PXL_20210225_172508833.jpg
 
Nice idea... what are people using to replace the vapor barrier? What mil plastic? What adhesive/caulk/bead material? Thanks..
 
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I used some heavy duty boat shrink wrap that I got for free. Not sure the mil thickness, but 10x thicker than the original stuff.
 
I replaced the barriers with this,

TRM Manufacturing 40350C Weatherall Visqueen Plastic Sheeting, Drop Cloth 3' Wide x 50' Length x 4.0 mil Thickness, Clear, ....was going to use the black windo weld sealer,,, but opted for double sided tape for future access and maintenance.​

 
Butyl mastic “ rope” for windshield . I bought a roll at Napa. Works great for everything
 
Interesting that in western WA you would have trouble with the vapor barrier removed. Even with bad outer window belt moulding, the almost 20 years now that my vapor barriers have been gone hadn't caused my door cards to warp any more than what I attributed to normal age. Until I came to the inland NW in 2004 I had lived just south of Everett (actually went back there last year for the H55F conversion at Torfab) too, so was in the same climate.

Good work on straightening it out again though. Definitely makes a big difference. My problem was with the holes being all torn apart from the plastic rivets pulling through during many removals. I finally drilled out the holes in the sheet metal, put in rivnuts and have black oxide M6x20mm torx head screws and washers. Looks surprisingly nice considering what I ended up doing.
 

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