Builds Resurrecting a mothballed '86 FJ60

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I drained the oil out of it and replaced the O rings. I attempted to install the adapters that came in the kit, but one of them is too small? Both my H and L side are the same size, but my adapters are one larger than the other.

I futzed around with it for like an hour, but couldn't make it work. I started getting suspicious, and when I did a quick Google on the PN it pulls up a VW compressor?

Can someone confirm this is/is not a late LC compressor?

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In the AM I can pull out my compressor that I have tucked away and add a few photos too.
 
High-side fittings came in two sizes, 1/4" MF which is the same size as the low-side, and 3/16"MF which some manufacturers used to reduce the possibility of hooking up gauges incorrectly. You just need to swap out your 3/16" for a 1/4" one and you'll be fine. VW did use (and so did Ford) the same body 6P148A compressors, although they used different plates where the hoses bolt up and different clutches.
 
^^ this is exactly correct. Turns out the kit I bought only had the small size. I found another kit that has both and it's got me rolling again.
 
Finished off the conversion and vacuumed it down to ~28". It held for a good 90+mins so I went ahead and dumped 1lb of R134a in.

Success! My compressor cycled on and I got some cool air from the vents. It's not COLD, but it is cool.

I had to adjust the AC idle up screw to eliminate the surging, but I found that its resetting my idle entirely? I.e. when I dial it up to ~1500rpms, no more surge. But when I turn the AC off the rpms stay that high. I don't think that's right. But not sure what would cause it.
 
You should be able to get reasonably cold air with R134a. What pressures did you see after putting in 1lb.? I'm guessing you may need to add some more.
 
So I think I have a combo of issues: my AC amp needs to be adjusted, and the idle up screw on the AC needs to be adjusted.

And I found dye leaking down the outside of the evaporator box. So I lost all my refrigerant. I'm going to have to pull it out again.
 
So I think I have a combo of issues: my AC amp needs to be adjusted, and the idle up screw on the AC needs to be adjusted.

And I found dye leaking down the outside of the evaporator box. So I lost all my refrigerant. I'm going to have to pull it out again.
That sucks. But at least it's easier the second time.
 
Finally got back to the 60 today. I had to take some time off to move into a new house - and that of course came with a host of work that needed to be done.

I ignored the responsible stuff I was supposed to be doing today to work on the truck, especially now that I have a garage again!

I unboxed my timing light with the adjustable strobe - so I was able to get my timing reset to ~7*. Then I yanked the evaporator again and found this mess:

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I got a new evaporator, expansion valve and pressure switch. My new aftermarket evap did NOT fit, so I kept my old one. I also found out that the expansion valve needs a little ferrule piece that was not in the last one I got - which explains the leak.

While I had the dash apart I took the time to install this guy that I've been sitting on for like a year now:

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I spent some time on the wiring, doing it up correctly using factory harness connector and soldered connections. In my hunt for constant 12v I found a 12v plug underneath the dash by the glovebox. I had no idea that was there, pretty cool!

Unfortunately I only ever got to ~25lbs of vacuum, and it lost about 5lbs after the first 2hrs or so. Gonna have to hunt down the leak. Sigh.
 
Spent some time today with the 15yo dialing the truck in.

I got to teach him how to use a timing light, how to adjust timing, how to measure vacuum and why you would want to, and how to dial the truck in with timing, mix and idle speed. When all was done we had ~19.5" vacuum and ~690 RPM's with about 17* advance. It's running like a champ.

After the tweaks we took her for a shakedown run on the back 40. Nothing to serious, but some off-camber and very steep sections that required 4L. Truck performed flawlessly.
 
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Spent some time today with the 15yp dialing the truck in.

I got to teach him how to use a timing light, how to adjust timing, how to measure vacuum and why you would want to, and how to dial the truck in with timing, mix and idle speed. When all was done we had ~19.5" vacuum and ~690 RPM's with about 17* advance. It's running like a champ.

After the tweaks we took her for a shakedown run on the back 40. Nothing to serious, but some off-camber and very steep sections that required 4L. Truck performed flawlessly.

17* at idle? Or is that a typo at 7*?
 
17* at idle? Or is that a typo at 7*?
17* for the BB. So 10* advanced I think? Its advanced more than I would have liked, but that's where it is running best for sure. It will idle at the factory settings (no advance at all) but then the vacuum drops significantly, down to like 17".
 
17* for the BB. So 10* advanced I think? Its advanced more than I would have liked, but that's where it is running best for sure. It will idle at the factory settings (no advance at all) but then the vacuum drops significantly, down to like 17".

Whew...that frightens me...it will run, but I'd be listening for pinging. If your timing light has an advance function, when you set to zero, you see the BB but then you advanced your gun 10* and set timing that way? If so, thats 17*.
 
Whew...that frightens me...it will run, but I'd be listening for pinging. If your timing light has an advance function, when you set to zero, you see the BB but then you advanced your gun 10* and set timing that way? If so, thats 17*.

I set the timing using the vacuum gauge and sound of the engine, i.e. when it was running most smoothly and quietly. I went back and checked the timing with the gun and found the bb with the dial turned to ~10*. I admit it's more advanced than I would have liked, but didnt realize that i was in a 'crazy' range.

I've been fighting with timing and RPM's on this since the beginning. I think I finally got the RPM issue fixed. What could cause it to want to run advanced? Worn cam lobes? Sticky valves? Carb was just rebuilt by Mark and I've adjusted the valves.
 
Did a little more on the '60 this weekend; a new catalytic converter which meant another adjust on the carb as I was removing a bunch of back pressure. I also adjusted the valves one more time. I was gratified to find that a few of the exhaust valves were a tiny bit more then "a loose drag" but mostly the valves were pretty spot on.

I took her for a spin - she ran like a champ. Unbelievable that it's the same truck I dragged home on a trailer 2 years ago.

Has a pretty nasty exhaust leak from the new cat - apparently I need to either tighten it down or get new o-rings. And the exhaust smells wonky, kind of like onions or garlic? I assume it's from the new cat.
 
Had a few moments today so did a few of the odd jobs.

I've had a replacement driver window regulator floating around so finally got to installing it. While I was in there I put some leftover sound deadening on the inside of the door.

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After that was done I moved on to the dome light switches. I've never had functioning dome lights despite doing some work on them already.

I found that the door switches were dirty and corroded. Most of them did not pass a continuity test.

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I cleaned them up with contact cleaner and then used dielectric grease on the threads.
 
Discretionary spending has slowed waaaaay down as we prep for Christmas for 5 kids, so just tackling small & cheap stuff right now.

Pulled the dome light down and found a broken connector, the rivet split right in half.

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So I drilled out the remains and rummaged around until I found a rivet floating in my toolbox. Drilled the light out marginally larger and riveted it back together.

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Fingers crossed that fixed my issue. The truck hasnt had cab lights since I bought it.
 

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