- Thread starter
- #41
wow, nice set! So that would allow it to be removed without pulling the throttle body? if not, I will get a throttle body gasket before I go doing that.
**Resolved** 1FZ-FE poor cold starts and wont idle (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter petegangies
- Start date
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wow, nice set! So that would allow it to be removed without pulling the throttle body? if not, I will get a throttle body gasket before I go doing that.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Missed this.
Yes, you would expect different results.
With the jumper in place, you'll see the static timing. It won't move.
Factory timing is 3⁰ BTDC.
You can run up to around 6⁰ to 10⁰. Some engines won't like 10⁰
When the ECU is controlling timing you'll see the timing jump all over the place as the ECU determines how much advance is needed.
In regards to photo of your plugs. Do they all look like that? Or just one or two?
They definitely look fouled up. But not shiny and oily.
If they all look the same, then it points to a timing issue.
If it's just one or two, then it might suggest bad injectors
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
It would, if the screw had been recently (like within the last several years) removed. Otherwise, it's likely to be so stuck to the throttle body (mine was) that you'll need a vise to hold the throttle body and you'll have to lean all your weight on the screwdriver to keep it seated, to prevent striping the head. That's assuming you use a JIS screwdriver. If you use a Phillips, the head will strip for sure.
The stickiness is due to electrolytic action; the throttle body is aluminum and the screw is steel.
That's a really little screw (5-mm, if memory serves).
I bought a gasket, 22271-66010, and two new screws, 90079-11022.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
You should be able to reach the throttle arm and blip it yourself while watching the timing.
I know I can, but I'm no T-rex!
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
This, but swap the pretty Toyota screwdriver for this
Use a #2 JIS or #2 pozidrive bit, set it on 1 or 2, and lean on it.
Then pop off a few small bursts, like pew, pew, pew, NOT Brrrrrrrrrttttt
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
- Thread starter
- #47
I got the top one out by giving the JIS impacta screw driver a few taps on the bottom first. Then with a bit of pressure and force I cracked it. The bottom one appears to be a different screw to the top one..
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Then someone's been in there before ya
- Thread starter
- #49
today's diagnostic will include removing no.1 spark plug and manually turning crank to find TDC. Then see if the timing mark lines up correctly. Also, Dad replaced the distributor cap and rotor button a little while back. I'm wondering whether he maybe installed the rotor button in the wrong position?
- Thread starter
- #50
this was my dad's car, brand new from 1994. Dad wouldn't have removed it, and it doesnt look like it's ever had a screwdriver on the head of it (apart from gently one of mine yesterday, it was completely unmarked.
ppc
M Go Blue
The rotor can only be placed in one position on the shaft of the distributor, but the distributor can be inserted into gears of the intake camshaft incorrectly. The distributor cap also fits in only one position. Incorrect position would only impact the adjustability range of distributor base on the bolt/slot of the housing but will not change timing. Based upon your description that doesn't seem to apply to your problem. When you determine TDC via the probing the #1 cylinder, not looking at the harmonic balancer, the rotor should end up pointing almost directly a the #1 electrode in the cap.
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #53
Ok so bit of a problem. I don't have a 3/4" Drive 30mm socket for the crankshaft. Repco and the like don't have them either. Bunnings has a 12 point. Otherwise it's a speciality tool place.
Observations about timing. I get the SAME results whether in service mode or not, timing is exactly the same when checking with the timing light. Timing does jump around when blipping the throttle.
Good to know about rotor button only being able to be installed one way. I have no idea if dad ever removed the distrubyor itself. Until I get this socket I'm stuck.
Getting a 30mm socket in 1/2" is much easier.
Observations about timing. I get the SAME results whether in service mode or not, timing is exactly the same when checking with the timing light. Timing does jump around when blipping the throttle.
Good to know about rotor button only being able to be installed one way. I have no idea if dad ever removed the distrubyor itself. Until I get this socket I'm stuck.
Getting a 30mm socket in 1/2" is much easier.
ppc
M Go Blue
@petegangies , If you are not trying to torque the nut on the crankshaft to 308 Ft-lbs a 1/2 drive is more than sufficient to rotate the motor. Even a 3/8 drive and a long ratchet would be good enough.
ppc
M Go Blue
@petegangies, I think you will need to work from the bottom up. Removing the skid plate should work just make sure you don't damage the radiator. Put some cardboard between fan and radiator.
- Thread starter
- #57
thanks, I'll have to remove skid plate and steering stabilizer.
What has me really stumped is that I'm not getting different readings on the timing when put the car into service mode. Timing is reading the same with or without the jumpers. Now the jumpers must be shorting because the check engine light is flashing right?
Here's where my timing was originally set... about 2cm to the left of the '15'. I think retarded the timing to between the 10 and 3 points, and it would start worse, idle poorly and had no power. I think adjusted it to around the 15 mark, and it's running better again. I'm wondering whether my ecu is not actually going into service mode and I'm not seeing a correct value. Everywhere I read about adjusting the timing say that timing readings should be different when in service mode compared to not. Am I wasting my time chasing down a harmonic balancer issue here? I guess finding TDC is going to show us if the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up correctly or not. Man my head is scrambled thinking about this.. I've put in around 18 hours worth of time on the car this weekend stuffing around trying to solve this, and feel like I've gotten almost nowhere. I wish there was a Landcruiser specialist or decent mechanic I trusted in Sydney to investigate this properly. I'm more than happy to do things DIY, love getting my hands dirty and learning, but I feel like I'm losing this battle. I'm now also concerned that I've played with the timing and don't want to jeopardize the motor. Even though, if my timing light is correct, I'm actually running less timing now correct?
ppc
M Go Blue
@petegangies ,At this point don't worry about the timing being the same in service mode as normal mode. The engine ECM appears to be working properly. You need to address the simple things first otherwise you will not gain any progress. Your main trouble shooting needs to be solely determining TDC by putting something into the spark plug opening. When at TDC where is the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. If is it not in range of the factory settings there is a problem. Manipulation of the distributor will get you absolutely nowhere. Possible causes to your problems, as previous stated in several posts above is a failed harmonic balancer or improper installation of cams. At this point all you need to determine, is that one test, then report back, nothing else at this point.
Have you actually been able to secure the distributor with the locking bolt with all the different changes you have been making?
Have you actually been able to secure the distributor with the locking bolt with all the different changes you have been making?
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- Thread starter
- #59
Understood, and thank you for your (and the others) patience. This motor has never been pulled apart, so the cams should not have been touched, unless you meant something other than the camshaft?
Yes, the locking bolt is easy to secure after loosening and making changes.
This was the original position (ignore my white texta marks that do absolutely nothing)
and this was when I had it between the 10 and 3 marks.
It's now somewhere in between those 2... forgot to take another pic.
ppc
M Go Blue
@petegangies ,
Ok, as I think about this a little more, cam timing could be an issue to look at later. Either harmonic balance is defective or not installed properly. It has a keyway that is inserted in a grove in the crankshaft and slot in the harmonic balancer. If that keyway has fallen into the motor during installation, the harmonic balancer most likely installed wrong. You stated your father didn't do much in the way of removing cams etc., but for a vehicle 30 years old it is very common that the front main seal behind the harmonic balancer would have been replaced and/or the oil pump o-ring would both be replaced for oil leaks. The balancer needs to be removed for those items to be replaced.
Ok, as I think about this a little more, cam timing could be an issue to look at later. Either harmonic balance is defective or not installed properly. It has a keyway that is inserted in a grove in the crankshaft and slot in the harmonic balancer. If that keyway has fallen into the motor during installation, the harmonic balancer most likely installed wrong. You stated your father didn't do much in the way of removing cams etc., but for a vehicle 30 years old it is very common that the front main seal behind the harmonic balancer would have been replaced and/or the oil pump o-ring would both be replaced for oil leaks. The balancer needs to be removed for those items to be replaced.
