Builds Rescuing a Basket Case '72 FJ40 (2 Viewers)

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I'm not an expert, but this is what I've been given to understand: self-etch is designed to create a strong chemical when applied to clean bare metal, making for solid adhesion for subsequent layers. I think red oxide is often applied over metal that has started to rust - probably more commonly in industrial applications?

Anyway, my truck has both bare metal and rusty metal, so I'm kind of spot-painting depending on what's happening on what part of the vehicle.

Maybe someone with better info will chime in!
Ding ding! Self etching is for bare surfaces - metal, fiberglass, some plastics. It's there to provide a hold for the next layer of primer to adhere to rather than the bare material. You really don't want to apply your paint directly to the self-etching primer. It can handle a little rust, like after a wire wheel or whatever but you wouldn't want to hose it over and expect it to seal in a ton. For that you should use rust inhibitor first. You also don't want to bondo on top of it.

The pros with spray booths and guns will tell you to use epoxy primer instead, which I would agree with. But when you are bomb canning, etch is fine as long as you top coat it with a sandable primer.

He's using a bomb can red oxide, not the brush on stuff like they use on bridges. It provides some rust protection, but is really just a sandable primer with some inhibitors. You absolutely still need to apply rust inhibitor like Rust-Mort and/or hit it with a wire wheel. Then the primer. Otherwise, the ghost of rust past will haunt you.

I like to use a filler primer when I have some rust pits. It fills them in nicely once sanded. Also glazing putting will be your new best friend when long boarding. It's much more forgiving than bondo and fills bondo pinholes nicely.

Also, primer is not UV resistant or a sealer. It will get chalky in the sun and let water through eventually.
 
Ding ding! Self etching is for bare surfaces - metal, fiberglass, some plastics. It's there to provide a hold for the next layer of primer to adhere to rather than the bare material. You really don't want to apply your paint directly to the self-etching primer. It can handle a little rust, like after a wire wheel or whatever but you wouldn't want to hose it over and expect it to seal in a ton. For that you should use rust inhibitor first. You also don't want to bondo on top of it.

The pros with spray booths and guns will tell you to use epoxy primer instead, which I would agree with. But when you are bomb canning, etch is fine as long as you top coat it with a sandable primer.

He's using a bomb can red oxide, not the brush on stuff like they use on bridges. It provides some rust protection, but is really just a sandable primer with some inhibitors. You absolutely still need to apply rust inhibitor like Rust-Mort and/or hit it with a wire wheel. Then the primer. Otherwise, the ghost of rust past will haunt you.

I like to use a filler primer when I have some rust pits. It fills them in nicely once sanded. Also glazing putting will be your new best friend when long boarding. It's much more forgiving than bondo and fills bondo pinholes nicely.

Also, primer is not UV resistant or a sealer. It will get chalky in the sun and let water through eventually.

Thanks for the detailed explanation! I've been basically doing what you describe. Etching primer on bare metal, followed by a 2k high-build primer, followed by top coat. The rusty spots that I didn't cut out have been hit with a rust converter, then the red oxide primer, which I will either topcoat directly, or add a high-build primer before topcoating, depending on the condition of the substrate. No significant area of primer will be left exposed to the elements.
 
I have a set of oem steelies in good shape. But shipping across the border wouldn’t be cheap.
Hmmm. I wonder what it would cost to ship them to Sweetgrass, MT? I'm only about 50 miles from the border, so it would be easy to pop down there to pick them up.

I will send you a DM about this.
 
Hmmm. I wonder what it would cost to ship them to Sweetgrass, MT? I'm only about 50 miles from the border, so it would be easy to pop down there to pick them up.

I will send you a DM about this.
You can get brand new OEM 40 wheels from a dealer, and they’re MUCH cheaper in Canada than they are in the states. Last time I checked it was about $70/wheel in CA and $130/wheel in the US. No idea why there’s a price differential.
 
You can get brand new OEM 40 wheels from a dealer, and they’re MUCH cheaper in Canada than they are in the states. Last time I checked it was about $70/wheel in CA and $130/wheel in the US. No idea why there’s a price differential.
Protectionist import tariffs?

EDIT: I called the dealer, and they are $130 CDN each, which is about $95 USD. So still a little cheaper but not crazy cheap.
 
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Protectionist import tariffs?

EDIT: I called the dealer, and they are $130 CDN each, which is about $95 USD. So still a little cheaper but not crazy cheap.
I assumed it was tariff related. That’s roughly 30% cheaper than here. Under $100 for a quality Toyota wheel? Seems like easy money…
 
I have updates.

After protracted bout of procrastination, I was finally left with no choice but to start work on this rusty quarter panel. Most of the quarter is pretty decent, actually, except for one long, thin strip where the inner fender attaches. Lots of rust jacking and super-thin sheet metal in that one spot. I'd been putting it off because the section is 24" long, which means over 4 linear feet of welding and - even worse - 4 linear feet of grinding.

Here's the status quo situation:

fj40251.jpg

For a large panel like this, I like to use the Fitzee Fabrications "Cut n' Butt" technique. It involves tacking the patch over the rusted section, like so:

fj40252.jpg


You then systematically cut under the patch with a thin cut-off wheel, re-tacking as you go. This helps a ton with panel alignment, and basically does away with clamps, magnets, etc. It's a bit of a pain to be constantly switching between welder and grinder, but in the end I think it pays off in a cleaner patch and really good fit-up. Here is the patch fully tacked in, with the original metal removed from behind.

fj40253.jpg


From this point, it was just a matter of stacking tacks. I took it super slow, waiting for the panel to cool completely between rounds of welding. A perfectly flat panel like this will distort like crazy if you put too much heat into it all at once.

And here's the panel fully welded and welds ground as flush as I dared. I did experience some caving, but a lot less than expected. The panel wasn't completely flat to begin with, which didn't help matters either.

fj40254.jpg


After filler and a light coat of etching primer, it's looking halfway decent!

fj40256.jpg


Oh, and I also had to re-attach the inner fender. Drilled some fresh holes for plug-welding. It's really ugly, but it'll hold.

fj40255.jpg
 
Great write up
 
...and with the quarter panel repair complete, I moved on to the last major piece of rust repair that I'll be going on this truck: the front of the driver's side inner fender.

fj40116.jpg


This was a tricky panel to make as it involves a tipped flange, a raised bead, and a curve.

I used the bead roller to make the raised bead, and then used this jury-rigged contraption to add the curve. I just clamped the panel to a piece of pipe and hammered it into submission.

fj40257.jpg


Here's the roughly-sized patch ready for fit-up:

fj40258.jpg


Didn't have a chance to get it welded in, as it needs a bit more trimming, but we're getting close!

fj40259.jpg


And, that's where we're at! I'm excited to move on to electrical and mechanical stuff.
 
I have a process in that I have two pipes held together , the metal lays on top and a third pipe on top of the metal. This way the metal is hit evenly by the third pipe. Push the metal to create the curve you need.
We all find ways to make it look good.
 
I have a process in that I have two pipes held together , the metal lays on top and a third pipe on top of the metal. This way the metal is hit evenly by the third pipe. Push the metal to create the curve you need.
We all find ways to make it look good.
I'll have to remember that method, as I'm sure it yields a nice, consistent curve. In my particular case, I didn't even need a full 90 degree bend, so I knew I could fudge it.
 

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