Replacing The Rear Spring Bushings

[45Kevin]

I recently noticed that the spring bolts were not centered in the bushings, and it got me thinking that they may be worn out.

After canvassing the club members for opinions I decided to go with OEM rubber instead of the more popular and colourful polyurethane ones.

CDan came through with genuine toyota bushing for a measily $3.65 each. It worked out to about $5 each delivered.

Last week I sprayed the bolts with PB Blaster and today I tore into it.

I jacked up the frame until the weight was off the wheels, and took the nuts off the shackle bolts. I then jacked up the axle until I could easily wiggle the shackle. At that point I used the plastic deadblow hammer and pounded the bolts through. I finished them off with the drift once they were flush with the shackle.

One of the pins was stuck, but a couple of good twists with the rachet lossened them up enough to push out.

Once the bolts were out, I pulled off the shackles and pryed out the old bushings. They needed to be replaced as you can see in the pictures. They were very ovaled.

I used a rattail file to clean dried mud and some rust flakes from the spring eyes and then coated them with grease. The bolts were in very good condition and I will reuse them. CDan reports they are unobtanium now anyway.

I fitted the new bushings and squeezed the shackles back over them. I used the drift to align the holes and slid them back through the springs. I used a small bottle jack between the spring and the frame to get the secong hole to line up.

I couldn'd find the torque spec for the spring bolts, so I set them at 50 ft/lbs. Anyone know if that is close to spec?

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[45Kevin]

Big difference between the old and the new.


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[45Kevin]

Those were the bushings at the shackles.

The bushings at the front of the spring don't have the same kind of bolt. There is a nut, which I can get off, but I can't seem to push the bolt through. I assume it is stuck to the old rubber bushings, and since there is no hex head on the bolt, I can't twist it to break the stuck.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove those bolts?

When i find out how to remove them I will finish up this how-to.

 

[3_puppies]

Those were the bushings at the shackles.

The bushings at the front of the spring don't have the same kind of bolt. There is a nut, which I can get off, but I can't seem to push the bolt through. I assume it is stuck to the old rubber bushings, and since there is no hex head on the bolt, I can't twist it to break the stuck.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove those bolts?

When i find out how to remove them I will finish up this how-to.

lots of heat has worked for me in the past. You can put the nut on flush with the threads and smack with hammer but you don't want to bugger the threads. Once you get it out a little bit, you can get a pipe wrench on the end and twist it.
Good luck.

 

[woytovich]

67 ft/lbs... for the spring pins on an FJ60 at least.

 

[45Kevin]

So am I on the right track?

I have been pounding on the nut with a bfh. Not much swing because of the drive shaft.

In pic one there are two circles, an inner and an outer. As I hammer they are moving away from the hanger and seems to be a part of the bolt. The outer circle seems like it may be a big metal bushing.

Should the inner circle be seperate or is it part of the big circle.

Pic two shows that the bolt has moved out about 1/8". The outer circle is flat at the top so it won't turn witht he nut.


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[woytovich]

I think so... maybe time to add some HEAT? Did you soak the pins in PB Blaster or the like?

 

[45Kevin]

I did spray liberal doses of PB Blaster.

Getting good heat is a hassle, so I'm saving that as a last resort.

Is there a SST or a special clamp/vice to remove this?

 

[woytovich]

Getting good heat is a hassle, so I'm saving that as a last resort.

Home Depot or Lowes MAPP gas torch:

MAPP

 

[SOOT]

Maybe try a bearing puller and use it to push it out with some heat and some sharp hammer hits. If you don't have access to a bearing puller that suits, fab up your own out of some steel a nut and some threaded rod.

A 50/50 mix of acetone and power steering fluid is good for loosening anything that is stubborn or rusty.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[2fpower]

I used tons of heat. do it outside as it will catch fire, which seemed to help.

Total PITA.

 

[todt]

I know I spent at least 2 hrs on mine. I ended up working most of the bushing out of the way before mine would free up. A lot of torching picking and tapping little bits at a time. Razor knife and anything else to work bushing out. I just didn't want to mushroom the bolt like I do when I get carried away with BFH.

I know I spent to much time on this but whatever it worked and no damage.

 

[45Kevin]

I tried some Mapp gas but I think I would have had to use it until the entire rubber bushing. I'm not sure I want to put that much heat on spring steel, although I know others do it all the time.

I ended up making a press and pressing the pin out. Worked like a charm until the threaded end was flush with the hanger. Then I broke out the pipe wrench and with turning it and pulling it eventually came out.

I only had one side of the truck jacked up and caused the spring to be slightly twisted, adding to the pressure on the pin. This became very apparent when I went to put the pin back in.


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[45Kevin]

The old bushing are original I believe and in better shape than the rear ones.

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[SOOT]

Nice work there 45Kevin. My old Tech teacher used to say "There is more then one way to skin a cat", this rings true when working on these old cruisers.

 

[herbs]

I have had to use an oxy torch before to melt the old rubber bush, stinks, but it works.

 

[jfz80]

Thanks for the reminder.
Replaced my shackle side bushings this afternoon with some leftover 55 bushings I sourced at napa. Worked like a charm.

Will have to call up Dan for frame side. Hopefully shackles/pins are available too as these were a bit worn.

I'd say they were done