Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal

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Wayne

Wayne

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Got a leak started at the front crankshaft oil seal :P. Already bought the seal and have the Repair Manual :D. Looks like an easy job :banana: :banana:......... loosen the accessory belts, pull the crank pulley and pry the old seal out, install the new seal, install the crank pulley, and install accessory belts. Is that it?

Wayne S
 
Yup, but for one teensy thing.

The crank pulley bolt is torqued to 304 lbft.


A) ya gotta bust it loose.


B) ya gotta tighten it back up to 304 lbft.

In order to get a wrench on it, you will need to pull the fan and fan clutch and fan shroud. In order to get the shroud out you must pull the battery and battery tray out and drain the radiator some to get the upper hose off and out of the way. And so-on.......

D-
 
You can get a breaker bar on it without removing the fan with access from below, but it does make your life easier. Remember, that's 304 freaking ft-lbs. I made up piece of steel to hold the crank pulley in place while torquing on the bolt.

Have fun.
 
Hello. sorry to bump such and old thread,. but i couldn't find the answer. i am replacing the front crankshaft seal on a 1993 1FZ-FE. I used an OEM seal part
#90311-52022. The old seal was quite difficult to get out, but new new seal just pushed in very easily. Normally when I install any type of oil seal, it needs to be tapped in with a seal driver and hammer - this new one just pushed in with almost no effort. did anyone else have this experience ? thank you
 
Mine needed to be taped in.
Something not right if it just pushed in. IMP
 
I pushed mine in by hand on both of my 80s. Believe you're supposed to put FIPG around the outer lip, and grease the inner. 90311-52022 on my 97s.
 
I have always had to tap one in with a 2”pvc cap or coupling as the driver. I’ve installed over 20 and never had one just push in.
 
excessive said:
Hello. sorry to bump such and old thread,. but i couldn't find the answer. i am replacing the front crankshaft seal on a 1993 1FZ-FE. I used an OEM seal part
#90311-52022. The old seal was quite difficult to get out, but new new seal just pushed in very easily. Normally when I install any type of oil seal, it needs to be tapped in with a seal driver and hammer - this new one just pushed in with almost no effort. did anyone else have this experience ? thank you
Click to expand...
Should be tapped in.

That's the point of a seal. Also shouldn't have to use FIPG on a seal. Get a different seal. Also, mic the hole it's going into so you can check any new seals prior to installing.
 
How do you lock the engine in order to release (or re-tighten) an item torqued to 300+ ft-lb ? In my case a diesel, but I'm sure it's similar for the petrol engine. Is there anywhere (or any special tool) for Toyota motors in 80's to lock the motor from rotating for service work?
 
@excessive : Are you also replacing the oil pump cover gasket along with the crank seal?

Can you post up a photo of the seal you installed?
 
sunrk said:
How do you lock the engine in order to release (or re-tighten) an item torqued to 300+ ft-lb ? In my case a diesel, but I'm sure it's similar for the petrol engine. Is there anywhere (or any special tool) for Toyota motors in 80's to lock the motor from rotating for service work?
Click to expand...
IMG_1853.webp

It is not pretty, but it did the job. Took less than 30 minutes to build. If your near DC, I am happy to hand it off....
 
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