Replacing Strutmaster with OME (1 Viewer)

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084runnerltd

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I bought my rig about a month ago. The PO had the AHC removed and replaced with Strutmasters, AHC replacement kit, that use eibach springs.

The truck is currently in the shop getting the OME Heavy 2.5" lift installed (with UCA and diff drop).

Anyway, I stopped by the shop to get a status update and the mechanic asked if the truck was supposed to be lifted any higher than it was previously with the Strutmaster kit. I told him it is supposed to be a 2.5" lift, he said that he thinks the Strutmaster coil must have been the same size as the new one, as there is no noticeable lift to the rear of the truck.

(Currently, the truck has stock bumpers, Slee blueberry and dual carrier rear will be installed in about 2 weeks.)

He showed me the truck and actually the front looks higher than the rear. (Also, I am assuming he didn't measure, as if he did, we would have exact numbers).

Anyway, any reason for this?

During the install, I had duratrac 285s installed. Perhaps the taller tire compensates for the lift, leaving the distance between the body and the top of the tire very similar to the gap that the stock tires and body had? (Not sure if that even makes sense, just trying to thinks of reasons for the apparent lack of lift)

I should have got a pic, however I didn't expect to see my truck when I stopped in and didn't have my phone with me.

The lift is not done yet, I believe that the torsion bars and diff drop will be installed tomorrow. So I am guessing that with the new torsion bars installed they can adjust the front of the truck to level it out....??

Any ideas as to why the gap around the wheels looks unchanged??
 
Not sure I can help you specifically, but here is a picture of my old land cruiser without a lift, and my new land cruiser that had a 2.5" OME lift. Both Cruisers have 285/75/16 tires. The lifted Cruiser had Duratracs and the non-lifted had BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO.

Keep in mind too that the non-lifted cruiser still has it's running boards.

full
 
Thanks, that helps.

Going from my not so reliable memory, the wheel-well gaps definitely look like your lifted gaps. As well, the running boards were still on mine (until tomorrow).




Not sure I can help you specifically, but here is a picture of my old land cruiser without a lift, and my new land cruiser that had a 2.5" OME lift. Both Cruisers have 285/75/16 tires. The lifted Cruiser had Duratracs and the non-lifted had BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO.

Keep in mind too that the non-lifted cruiser still has it's running boards.

full
 
Not sure I can help you specifically, but here is a picture of my old land cruiser without a lift, and my new land cruiser that had a 2.5" OME lift. Both Cruisers have 285/75/16 tires. The lifted Cruiser had Duratracs and the non-lifted had BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO.

Keep in mind too that the non-lifted cruiser still has it's running boards.

full


Wow what a contrast!

Makes me want the OME 2.5" lift also...

What roof rack is on each rig?

Also on the lifted rig I like the black door moulding to match the front and rear bumpers, looks good.
 
Wow what a contrast!

Makes me want the OME 2.5" lift also...

What roof rack is on each rig?

Also on the lifted rig I like the black door molding to match the front and rear bumpers, looks good.

On the lifted Cruiser is has a Front Runner Rack and non-lifted Cruiser has a Gamaviti.

Both are pretty awesome. Would highly recommend both.

The lifted rig has plasti dip on the trim. Works pretty good and it is completely removable.
 
By chance a friend was in the shop today and sent me this pic...

Looks lifted to me...

IMG_0794.JPG
 
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Agreed, front end should be a little lower than the rear. I had mine cranked level and after all the noise from the suspension maxing out over speed bumps or dips in the road, I dropped it down about an inch or so.
 
The shop that replaced my AHC with Tough Dog suspension first leveled out the truck like this:
IMG_1779.JPG

Needless to say it rode like absolute dog****. After lowering the front it looks like this:
IMG_1380.jpg


It has too much rake for me now (around 23" in the back and 20.5" in the front off the top of my head) so I will crank the front up about 1,5 cm when I get new tyres. Yes, I know i need bigger shoes! This is with OEM size 275/60r18.
 
One thing I have learned is that a 2.5" lift on a 100 series just doesnt look "lifted" as I am used to seeing. You look at 80 series with bigger tires and they really look lifted. I did the 2.5" Ironman and I am planning to add a rear spacer to give it a bit more aggressive look. tires...295 75/16. Trail Taylor rack.
snake1.jpg
 
It has too much rake for me now (around 23" in the back and 20.5" in the front off the top of my head) so I will crank the front up about 1,5 cm when I get new tyres. Yes, I know i need bigger shoes! This is with OEM size 275/60r18.
I wouldn't advise lifting the front any more than it is. You either need more weight in the rear, different springs.... or park facing up hill from now on. :)
 
I wouldn't advise lifting the front any more than it is. You either need more weight in the rear, different springs.... or park facing up hill from now on. :)
No more than 20.5"? I'm sitting at 21.75" with no driveability or mechanical issues.
 
20.5" was the number that stuck in my head but maybe I was thinking 21.5"... in any case, I do know at 21.5", caster is not correctable to spec with stock UCA's.
 
20.5" was the number that stuck in my head but maybe I was thinking 21.5"... in any case, I do know at 21.5", caster is not correctable to spec with stock UCA's.
I was able to barely get in stock caster specs at 21.5. At 21.75 I'm barely out.
 
Looks like they have the front end cranked way too high.


Agreed.

How do you guys feel about this: I know when the pic was taken the lift was not fully installed. I was thinking when it is complete, take it home "as is" even if the front is riding high. Install the bumpers and winch, then see how it sits and bring it back if necessary...??

The shop is good, I have no doubt that they will adjust at no charge. However, I want to avoid having them adjust it now, only to have me return it in a few weeks to adjust it again.

But I am new to this....perhaps the bumpers and winch are perfectly weighted, resulting in the front and rear dropping in unison, leaving the truck still looking like an "reverse-stinkbug."
 
Agreed.

How do you guys feel about this: I know when the pic was taken the lift was not fully installed. I was thinking when it is complete, take it home "as is" even if the front is riding high. Install the bumpers and winch, then see how it sits and bring it back if necessary...??

The shop is good, I have no doubt that they will adjust at no charge. However, I want to avoid having them adjust it now, only to have me return it in a few weeks to adjust it again.

But I am new to this....perhaps the bumpers and winch are perfectly weighted, resulting in the front and rear dropping in unison, leaving the truck still looking like an "reverse-stinkbug."
That sounds fine as long as its literally not too high.

Why not just buy a breaker bar and a socket to adjust yourself? Super easy to do.
 
That sounds fine as long as its literally not too high.

Why not just buy a breaker bar and a socket to adjust yourself? Super easy to do.

I could, but don't know what I am doing. (The lift in the 80 was so easy...100 seems a little more complicated)

I am off to search for some Youtube vids, as I would actually rather adjust it myself.

What do you mean by, "literally not too high?" Is there something that can be damaged if it is too high?

Sorry for my ignorance, I learn as I go...
 
Slee did the OME on mine and leveled it front to rear. With 33" BFG AT/KO's it makes the 100 look perfectly balanced. Very pleasing to the eye.
 

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