Replacing stock shocks

[Joshuak172]

Hey folks, I searched to no avail. Is it reasonable to just swap out the front shocks with new OEM and keep the old stock spring? It doesn’t seem like it would be an issue. Is there a write up somewhere?

 

[bloc]

Hey folks, I searched to no avail. Is it reasonable to just swap out the front shocks with new OEM and keep the old stock spring? It doesn’t seem like it would be an issue. Is there a write up somewhere?

Should be fine, that's what I did when I bought mine with 105k on it. Don't even really need to replace any bushings or isolators at the top of the strut.

No detailed writeups that I know of, but any you find on a suspension install will help with getting the strut body out, then it's standard stuff with a good spring compressor.

I don't have pictures or anything, but do have a few tips off the top of my head.

YES loosen the LCA pivot bolts, and just suck up having to get it aligned after. Those bushings are extremely stiff and getting the lower arm down enough to drop the strut is a hell of a job with the bolts tight.

Loosen the 2 large bolts on either side of the lower ball joint going into the bottom of the knuckle. This will allow the lower arm to swing down and away.

No need to detach the tie rod end from the knuckle.

If you leave the upper ball joint nut in place, and leave the UCA pivot bolt/nut tight, the knuckle will conveniently hang off the UCA and stay out of your way. Helps to knock the brake caliper bolts loose and remove the rotor to reduce weight on the assembly.

With the knuckle hanging from the UCA, and the LCA swung down out of the way, the strut assembly can drop right out the bottom between the CV axle and tie rod.

Tighten the LCA pivot bolts once the vehicle is back at ride height to 207 ft-lb. It can be pretty hard to hit this number while under the truck, even with it on ramps. I'm not a small person and this is a struggle, but the only way to do it right. If you have access to a 4-post lift, should be easy.

Then get it aligned and make sure the shop knows about that number.. most will just go "tight enough" but that often isn't actually enough.

 

[Joshuak172]

Should be fine, that's what I did when I bought mine with 105k on it. Don't even really need to replace any bushings or isolators at the top of the strut.

No detailed writeups that I know of, but any you find on a suspension install will help with getting the strut body out, then it's standard stuff with a good spring compressor.

I don't have pictures or anything, but do have a few tips off the top of my head.

YES loosen the LCA pivot bolts, and just suck up having to get it aligned after. Those bushings are extremely stiff and getting the lower arm down enough to drop the strut is a hell of a job with the bolts tight.

Loosen the 2 large bolts on either side of the lower ball joint going into the bottom of the knuckle. This will allow the lower arm to swing down and away.

No need to detach the tie rod end from the knuckle.

If you leave the upper ball joint nut in place, and leave the UCA pivot bolt/nut tight, the knuckle will conveniently hang off the UCA and stay out of your way. Helps to knock the brake caliper bolts loose and remove the rotor to reduce weight on the assembly.

With the knuckle hanging from the UCA, and the LCA swung down out of the way, the strut assembly can drop right out the bottom between the CV axle and tie rod.

Tighten the LCA pivot bolts once the vehicle is back at ride height to 207 ft-lb. It can be pretty hard to hit this number while under the truck, even with it on ramps. I'm not a small person and this is a struggle, but the only way to do it right. If you have access to a 4-post lift, should be easy.

Then get it aligned and make sure the shop knows about that number.. most will just go "tight enough" but that often isn't actually enough.

Fantastic. I appreciate the response.

 

[CharlieS]

Also, the process is the same for stock or aftermarket parts, and there are a pile of helpful videos on YouTube. I guess I'm more of a visual learner, so those help me.

You might even luck out and find some stock takeoffs. It may be harder now that the 200 isn't sold new here, but for a while we were getting them for the cost of shipping.

With the fronts it is easier (no spring compressor needed) to just swap out the shock/spring assembly as one unit.