Replacing Shocks - Any good DIY thread?

[Andres G]

Hello All,

I looked around but wasn't much able to get good results with the search function.

I am planning on replacing the stock (and probably original) shocks in my 98 LC w/160K miles. I am thinking of doing this myself with some help from a friend, and with access to a decently stocked home mechanic's shop.

Questions:
#1 - Is there a good DIY writeup on this forum to read prior to starting?
#2 - I am getting EOM replacement KYB shocks. Any experience with these?
#3 - I was quoted $99 + tax for these shocks... is there a better value for the money option?

Thanks in advance for all replies!

Andres

 

[Wilsil]

Have a look at Robs (RobRed) blog: http://tlcfaq.com/main/article-index/

 

[SmoothLC]

Lots of threads - copy and paste the following into Google:

100 series shock install site:ih8mud.com

 

[Andres G]

Thanks guys. Seems like rear shock install is what requires some working/hole cutting... did not find anything for the fronts thou. I imagine these are fairly easy, right?

 

[super90]

Don't need to drill holes for rear shocks. Some do it but in my case it would have been totally unnecessary. Granted my trucks are from dry country with no rust. Proper tools had rear shocks changed in about 15 each.

 

[profro]

Spray upper bolts a few times over preceding days with some like PB blaster and get an angled ratchet boxed end wrench. Did my wife's 2000 with no issue.

 

[DFXR]

Some good info about the rear shocks in this thread, including input from a pro:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ho...s-without-cutting-a-hole-in-the-floor.768958/

It shows a slightly different tool for the top nut than the angled ratchet shown above but either will work. The angled ratchet is gonna be cheaper. It worked for me on my dry 2000.

The fronts are just a remove and replace affair - up on jack stands, remove the wheel, remove and replace the shock. Standard ratchets and spanners will work. If there is rust present (and even if there's not) spray some PB Blaster or similar penetrant on all of the nuts (front and rear) for a few days before you do the job.

 

[OregonLC]

Spray upper bolts a few times over preceding days with some like PB blaster and get an angled ratchet boxed end wrench. Did my wife's 2000 with no issue.

That's the same tool I used on my 2K. Worked fabulously. Just did all 4 shocks on an 03 LC last Friday and they were all 22mm not 19mm and too big for that wrench set. His were all OEM Toyota (lasted 140k). Rust free and we did all 4 in 1:45. The trick for the rear is to have a 2nd man on a strap wrench from the well side while you're on the nut from under the vehicle. Dropping the spare creates space to sit.

FWIW, he installed IronMan foam shocks and they're great. The truck has 33s and sliders but nothing else so it's pretty light. Ride was firm but well dampened.

 

[Andres G]

Ok, so I did the shocks all around (No hole drilling) and was really pleased to find that the input provided here helped tremendously. At the end of the ordeal, it was about 2 and 1/2 hours back to back, including beer and contemplation time (15 minutes of this every 30 minutes of work).

Fronts went on easily, although I do noted that my OEMs were 19 mm and the new ones had the 22 mm nuts. This was an easy and simple process, and what took the longest was finding the way to hold the upper part secure while taking the top nut off.

The rears posed a bit of a challenge as everyone described. The issue was getting them loose at the top, and due to the lack of space, some ingenuity was required. I was able to slide the wrench in position, then extend the wrench with another wrench for additional leverage. With the vice grips on, it was a matter of a few tries until the nut was loose. From there on, smooth sailing to finish up the process.

Oh, and one more thing. After checking with the dealer on price for the OEM shocks, I decided to retunr the KYBs to the local parts store (priced $99 each) and went intead with OEM Tokiko (priced $49 each). Including the wrench ($17), the four struts ($200), and the Beer ($18), total out of pocket was $235.- Dealer quote was $650.-