Replacing Rear Lower Control Arm

[izzyandsue]

Replaced one rear control arm today. FSM shows simple boot removal and install, but not so easy.

Will need a 24, 22 mm open ended wrench and socket, torque wrench for 130ft lbs install, persuading hammer.

The 24mm is for the nut, 22 for the bolt. Liquid wrench them ahead of time if you can, then it’s a matter of using the 24mm to remove the nut. I used the 3 lb hammer to add some persuasion to the nut.mmthe front nut is close to the front muffler.

The rearmost nut is easy to access, but the bolt will not slide off, will hit the rear shock.

So I removed the top mounting bolts, and then can manouver the shock to slide the bolt off.

Front nut and bolt are close to muffler, so can’t use a socket on it.

 

[izzyandsue]

Install is reverse, and 130 ft lbs. I used high temp grease on the bolts before inserting back on. Then reinstall the upper shock bolts and good to go. This thing was twisted in multiple planes, vertical and horizontal.

 

[inkpot]

We straighten them up with a press, beef them up a bunch, then reinstall, usually with fresh OEM bushings

 

[Malleus]

I wish you'd have called me, I'd have come over to watch.

 

[inkpot]

Put that bolt in the other way so you don't have to fiddle with the shock?

 

[izzyandsue]

I wish you'd have called me, I'd have come over to watch.

I was going to see how difficult it was and then do it tomorrow. Got deep into it and before I knew it, I was done. Not an impressive fix, but with my luck I expected bolts would not come off....

Put that bolt in the other way so you don't have to fiddle with the shock?

I did not. Thought about it and forgot. The bolt was not as hard to remove with the loose shock. But I should have reversed the front one, as the nut is too close to the muffler and I can't get a torque wrench in, so did it grunt style.

I will keep the old one, use my press, keep as spare.

Huge shout out to Trollhole for the part, awesome shop in SC.

 

[nukegoat]

In this thread - how to unbolt a thing

 

[alia176]

PSA - Just a reminder for everyone that our suspension has unique nuts and bolts. On the rear suspension (maybe on the front too, can't recall at the moment), you get to put your socket on the nuts for loosening/tightening, NOT on the flanged bolts! These flanged bolts are designed to bite into the metal so if you rotate them to loosen, you may dull up these biting edges on the underside of the flanges. If you must rotate the bolts, loosen the nuts and tap the bolts outward then rotate them. This insures that the biting edges have moved away from what they were biting into and you won't dull them.

Between the torque values and these biting edges, our suspension hardware maintain their tightness and don't fall off on the trails!

 

[Tools R Us]

PSA - Just a reminder for everyone that our suspension has unique nuts and bolts. On the rear suspension (maybe on the front too, can't recall at the moment), you get to put your socket on the nuts for loosening/tightening, NOT on the flanged bolts! These flanged bolts are designed to bite into the metal so if you rotate them to loosen, you may dull up these biting edges on the underside of the flanges. If you must rotate the bolts, loosen the nuts and tap the bolts outward then rotate them. This insures that the biting edges have moved away from what they were biting into and you won't dull them.

Between the torque values and these biting edges, our suspension hardware maintain their tightness and don't fall off on the trails!

On the front, axle end, the nuts have the devices, so the rule is only turn the fastener with the washer, never the flange hardware.

 

[izzyandsue]

That's an important differentiator as the FSM states to "torque the bolt". Without knowing you could torque the hexhead and not the "nut".

 

[inkpot]

If you look at the contact side of the nut/ bolt it is pretty obvoious. I would guess that 130 #ft of torque is enuf to capture the inner core of the bushing to resist movement as the suspension cycles, but it IS confusing as to WHY Toyota has the friction designed into the bolt heads in some locations but it is in the nuts in others?

 

[Malleus]

PSA points for Izzy.

I was taught (in the Army aviation school) to tighten only the nuts, never the bolts. The theory is that the bolt may not be centered in the clearance hole and you could damage it my rotating it against the bore. Based on the VERY few mistakes/omissions (anyone seen a procedure for replacing the fuel filter?) I've seen in the FSM, I'd give Mr. T a pass and say it's a typo.

 

[izzyandsue]

My drill sergeant always had my nuts in a vice, so no torquing required.

 

[NCFJ]

I would think that the serrations on either flanged bolt or nut might have had to do with type of assembly line tools being used as well. Perhaps one side was easier to access with a particular tool. Just a guess.