Replacing Hub Assembly (1 Viewer)

[Deskahutez]

Hey Cruiser Heads,

I am beginning to get some play in my passenger side front hub. Had my mechanic check it out and he says it will need to be replaced in the next 12-24 months.

Have any of you replaced an entire hub assembly? If so, is this a job I could do in my garage?

My cruiser is a 99.

Cheers and thanks for any expertise you can provide.

Desk

 

[nukegoat]

Doubt it. You probably just need a drive flange and/or wheel bearings. If it's the drive flange, thats pretty easy. Bearings more annoying but nothing bizarre

 

[OwnerCS]

Take a look at the FAQ section. There are some good write-ups there. Not a bad job.

I get parts kits from Cruiser Outfitters. Just give them a call and let then know what you need.

Cruiser Teq | Land Cruiser Specialists Powered by Cruiser Outfitters

 

[Deskahutez]

Take a look at the FAQ section. There are some good write-ups there. Not a bad job.

I get parts kits from Cruiser Outfitters. Just give them a call and let then know what you need.

Cruiser Teq | Land Cruiser Specialists Powered by Cruiser Outfitters

Thanks!

 

[abuck99]

I think your technician is not clear about 100/80 series hub and wheel bearing assembly. On 120's and 150's, 200's, the hub is replaced as it contains non-serviceable wheel bearings, but on the 100 hub, it's rarely replaced unless something catastrophic happened. Wheel bearings on 100//80 are removed from hub, re-greased or replaced. You may need wheel bearings as suggested- but often times they are simply loose. Wheel bearings should be repacked every 30k- and if you dont know last time it was done; now is a good time to inspect. Original bearings if well cared for can go beyond 300k.

To get the most out of a 100 series wheel bearing service; tech needs to know and follow outlined steps in FSM; and more times than not the average non-toyota specific tech won't do it right. If you have the tools, and space its an easy job that you can do in an afternoon for the price of parts. FAQ has some good info- and several peeps here are quite knowledgable on the process.

 

[beachedwhale]

put it up on jack stands if you can wobble your tire left and right by pushing on the outside of it you need new wheel bearings. if it doesnt move you dont need new bearings. If you are starting to hear a thunk when you let off of the throttle and get back on the gas it could be the wheel hub. that thunk can also come from the drive shaft's universal joints. All of this is easy to do and can be done with simple hand tools and some loaner tools from your nearest auto parts store.

 

[I Lean]

put it up on jack stands if you can wobble your tire left and right by pushing on the outside of it you need new wheel bearings.

Or at least a snugging up of the spindle nuts. (repack at the same time, as mentioned before) Clean up the bearings and inspect, chances are good they're still serviceable.

 

[mdcoa]

put it up on jack stands if you can wobble your tire left and right by pushing on the outside of it you need new wheel bearings. if it doesnt move you dont need new bearings. If you are starting to hear a thunk when you let off of the throttle and get back on the gas it could be the wheel hub. that thunk can also come from the drive shaft's universal joints. All of this is easy to do and can be done with simple hand tools and some loaner tools from your nearest auto parts store.

When you do this, If there’s play, be sure to look at the inner and outer tie rod ends—these can also be a source of play when grabbing at 3 and 9 o’clock.
Bad/loose wheel bearings will result in equal amounts of wiggle regardless of where you grab the wheel. If play is only at 12/6, you’ve probably got an upper or lower ball joint problem—if only 3/9, look closely at steering linkage.

 

[beachedwhale]

When you do this, If there’s play, be sure to look at the inner and outer tie rod ends—these can also be a source of play when grabbing at 3 and 9 o’clock.
Bad/loose wheel bearings will result in equal amounts of wiggle regardless of where you grab the wheel. If play is only at 12/6, you’ve probably got an upper or lower ball joint problem—if only 3/9, look closely at steering linkage.

I second this. Great addition mdcoa!

 

[Deskahutez]

I think your technician is not clear about 100/80 series hub and wheel bearing assembly. On 120's and 150's, 200's, the hub is replaced as it contains non-serviceable wheel bearings, but on the 100 hub, it's rarely replaced unless something catastrophic happened. Wheel bearings on 100//80 are removed from hub, re-greased or replaced. You may need wheel bearings as suggested- but often times they are simply loose. Wheel bearings should be repacked every 30k- and if you dont know last time it was done; now is a good time to inspect. Original bearings if well cared for can go beyond 300k.

To get the most out of a 100 series wheel bearing service; tech needs to know and follow outlined steps in FSM; and more times than not the average non-toyota specific tech won't do it right. If you have the tools, and space its an easy job that you can do in an afternoon for the price of parts. FAQ has some good info- and several peeps here are quite knowledgable on the process.

Thank you!

 

[Deskahutez]

When you do this, If there’s play, be sure to look at the inner and outer tie rod ends—these can also be a source of play when grabbing at 3 and 9 o’clock.
Bad/loose wheel bearings will result in equal amounts of wiggle regardless of where you grab the wheel. If play is only at 12/6, you’ve probably got an upper or lower ball joint problem—if only 3/9, look closely at steering linkage.

Thank you!

 

[Deskahutez]

Just wanted to say thanks to you all for the excellent advice. I think I may just replace/repack all wheel bearings. Cruiser has 88k miles and I just bought it. Runs like a dream, but I ant to make sure it stays that way.

I will surely check tie rods and ball joints as well.

I called CruiserTec at OwnerCS recommendation and they were incredibly helpful as well.

You all rock!
Cheers,

Desk