Replacing front axle assemblies...stuck

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May 25, 2012
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Location
Heber City, UT
As part of putting in some old man emu springs, I decided to replace the axle assemblies since they're 120,000 miles old and the boots were starting to leak. I got the old ones out but now I cannot get the new axle to seat into the diff. I can get it all lined up and even that first 1mm or so of splines to seat in there but cannot get that c clip on the axle shaft to let the remaining inch or so to slide in. I hope I'm making sense. Is there some trick to getting it in? BFH? I just don't want to use force if there is a way to finesse it in.

Please help.
 
Unfortunately for me, I have pulled my front driver side axle three times. Just grab the axle, get the splines started, and give it a quick manly shove. If it doesn't slide in and seat, pull the middle (between the cv joints) of the axle back out about 3/4", and ram it back in with a little more force. Add more force as necessary, until it seats. Even after getting mine started, I had to finish it off with a flat screw driver and a hammer, in the notches on the sides of the inner joint housing.

As long as the splines are properly lined up, or you don't over extend the inner CV joint, your not going to break anything.
The most important thing when re-installing an axle is not to scrape the seal in side of the diff housing. (Which is why I have pulled my axle 3 times :doh:, leaky AMsoil diff fluid makes me cry:()
 
Force isn't the issue as stated above, keeping the seal happy is all that matters!
 
BFH
 
^ yup.

What started as a simple coil spring swap ended up with new axle shafts on both sides and new front diff oil change. I will say, the OME springs definitely reduced body roll and nose dive when braking. Now that I have the skid plates off, it might be time for an order from budbuilt.
 
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1439612218.226691.jpg
I got the passenger side to slide in without too much effort and seat in. The driver side seems to have popped out a bit:
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1439612340.837239.jpg
should the zinc flange be farther in like it is on the passenger side? Is this gonna leak or fail?
 
You should be fine. My driver side did the same thing. I had it flush with the housing, and after driving a while it shifted out a few mm. The next time I pulled the axle, the spring clip was still fully seated. It was just as much of a pain in the ass to remove the axle, as the first time. If you have driven it around, and you don't have oil residue running out the side of the housing, then you should be good to go.
 
You should be fine. My driver side did the same thing. I had it flush with the housing, and after driving a while it shifted out a few mm. The next time I pulled the axle, the spring clip was still fully seated. It was just as much of a pain in the ass to remove the axle, as the first time. If you have driven it around, and you don't have oil residue running out the side of the housing, then you should be good to go.
Great! I think I remember the original axle that I replaced was hanging out the same way. I just wanted to be reassured before our 1000 mile trip to Glacier NP and the salmon river that starts in about 15 minutes.
 
I'm stuck on this too. I cannot get the new axle into the housing. I saw two votes for BFH above, but where to I apply the whacks? The wheel side of the CV shaft? Like where the axle nut is? Could sure use some help right now.
 
You have to compress the axle and give it a knock with a hammer. If it is lined up you will feel the splines start to engage but not go in. Compress the joints and give it a knock and it will seat the splines and circlip.
 
I really don’t know if this is a job I want to do. I watched a whole YouTube video on it and it looks worse thean a Birff job on the 80 Series!
I have new boots from Trail Tailor sitting on the shelf for when a boot starts to leak. But hopefully it will be a long time!
 
It is way easier than an 80 birf job.
 

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