Replacing brakes and rotors (1 Viewer)

[Lcerva]

Hey everyone,

I’ve been trying to find info on which brake kit to install on my 2006 LX470. They seem a bit rusty and old so I’d like to add some new life to them. I was thinking of upgrading to drilled and slotted rotors with new calipers and ceramic brakepads. What brand do you guys recommend. I plan on doing the installation myself and it will be one of my first projects that I work on my car. Actually I’ve never done any work on any car so I will need a step-by-step step process eventually. But I am confident I can pull it off. Anyway, what do you recommend? Are there any OEM parts I should look for? Current situation below:
Thanks
Larry

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Calipers don’t look bad. Consider rebuilding them if they’re OEM. Rebuild kits are dirt cheap and just require time and an air compressor or bike pump...

For rotors and pads, I suspect you’ll get a ton of different answers. Nothing wrong with OEM for either, IMO. I also like powerstop. Also, that rust you see can be sanded off...

If you’re doing this work, would be a good time to also replace the soft brake hoses, repack wheel bearings, etc.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Are you experiencing any braking issues now or just want to "upgrade"? If the current stuff is within spec/thickness and stops the truck, spend the money elsewhere.

 

[Lcerva]

Are you experiencing any braking issues now or just want to "upgrade"? If the current stuff is within spec/thickness and stops the truck, spend the money elsewhere.

I was a bit concerned with the rust in between the rotor. Seems like it has life left in it but I just wanted to eliminate any sources of rust. What is the best course of action? I was looking forward to the upgrade but wouldn't mind waiting.

Calipers don’t look bad. Consider rebuilding them if they’re OEM. Rebuild kits are dirt cheap and just require time and an air compressor or bike pump...

For rotors and pads, I suspect you’ll get a ton of different answers. Nothing wrong with OEM for either, IMO. I also like powerstop. Also, that rust you see can be sanded off...

If you’re doing this work, would be a good time to also replace the soft brake hoses, repack wheel bearings, etc.

Are drilled and slotted rotors recommended? Are there any other maintenance related things I should do while I am in there?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Are drilled and slotted rotors recommended? Are there any other maintenance related things I should do while I am in there?

Depends on who you ask about rotors - everyone has an opinion. Drilled are good if you drive in rain a lot, slotted are good if you’re towing a lot and need the pad glaze shaved down, but both are susceptible to cracking and rapid wear. Smooth rotors come OEM for a reason - they work well in all conditions, are unlikely to crack, etc.

Regarding additional maintenance, brake hoses at each wheel, front wheel bearing repack/replacement, and rear parking brake shoes would all be worth doing if changing rotors.

 

[Lcerva]

So no one recommended any rotors to replace my old ones. What do you guys suggest?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

So no one recommended any rotors to replace my old ones. What do you guys suggest?

OEM Toyota

 

[OEMGUY0720]

So no one recommended any rotors to replace my old ones. What do you guys suggest?

EBC slotted + dimpled rotors are okay for me. The Green Stuff racing pads are about 15-20% better bite than OEM but gives off about twice brake dust than OEM.

 

[trdcorolla]

I normally get Centric Premium cryo slotted for my cars and cryo blanks for my SUV's.

 

[bentonrover]

You'll never have a fitment or guessing problem using OEM.

 

[Ayune]

The rust you’re seeing in the pics is mostly the wheel hubs, not the rotors.

Rotors are typically made from cast iron and will rust just from existing. Purely cosmetic and nothing to be concerned about, especially in the vents, visible from the sides.

For your first car repair project ever, I wouldn’t suggest 100 series front rotors/bearings. How about changing your heater T’s or cleaning the throttle body/MAF? Checking spark plug torque? If the truck stops well and you can ignore the rust-colored patina those other things may give you a better return for your money/time. We’re here to help but also to help you choose wisely.

And you can’t go wrong with all OEM parts FWIW.

 

[IndroCruise]

Suggest first ask at least one brake repair outfit for a check-up and quote. That way you get some some specific information on the actual condition of the whole braking system on your vehicle -- then decide how much you want to do yourself.

Unless you have special needs or unusual uses for vehicle, OEM replacement parts will do the job. A search will reveal that IH8MUD members express various different preferences and reasons.

The check-up should assist with an understanding of at least the following:

• Brake performance – easily done by workshop with accelerometer which prints a read-out – pass or fail?
• Age and condition of brake fluid – simple test at a workshop – bleed and replace?
• Condition and thickness of pads – replacement indicated by ‘wear indicator’ on the pads or is there plenty of ‘meat’ left on them?
• Condition and measured thickness of rotors – not out of shape nor surface grooved from dust, mud etc nor with heavy lip at edge -- regrind or replace if already thinner than specification or warped?
• Condition of rear drums (inside rear rotors) and shoes for parking brake?
• Condition of parking brake linkage and correct adjustment?
• Evidence of leaks of brake fluid at Master Cylinder and calipers at each wheel?
• Correct operation of proportioning valve governing share of braking effort between front and rear brakes?
• Correct operation of Master Cylinder and ABS system?
• Correct operation of brake assist accumulator (electric device behind Master Cylinder)?

You may or may not want to do the poll, but it is worthwhile to skim some IH8MUD experiences at

Another ABS Brake Failure

Here is a link on parts:

Brake Rotors and Pads Recommendation

 

[Lcerva]

Thank you all for the very informative responses. That helps a ton.

 

[kevin2i]

I went with Centric rotors, hoses, and (rebuilt) calipers and Akebono pads. Pads are great, very quiet and lasted along time, just ordered new set. More expensive than a lot of other brands, dusting not bad, but never a squeak is 'priceless'. I was going to save my old disks - and machine them for re-use, but they have escaped my garage sometime in the past 7 years . . . my disks look great, I might just slap the new pads in, almost no ridge in the back small ridge in front - will measure.

 

[Lcerva]

How are the stop tech brake hose sets?

 

[Pucker5]

I normally get Centric Premium cryo slotted for my cars and cryo blanks for my SUV's.

I did centric solid premium cryos for my sequoia and they were great. Cheaped our on premium solids without cryo on my front 2003 Landcruiser and they warped quick. Oem from here on out. Already did my rears.

 

[AlpineAccess]

So no one recommended any rotors to replace my old ones. What do you guys suggest?

I've tried several different types and am back to OEM. They are the best in my opinion if you are offroading and daily driving. Hold up to heat well in the mtns.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I've tried several different types and am back to OEM. They are the best in my opinion if you are offroading and daily driving. Hold up to heat well in the mtns.

I concur.

 

[Lcerva]

I decided on the z36 truck and tow. Wanted a little more performance since I’m making the truck slightly heavier with add ons. The tires alone are much heavier then stock.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I decided on the z36 truck and tow. Wanted a little more performance since I’m making the truck slightly heavier with add ons. The tires alone are much heavier then stock.

I have 33s, bumper, and drawers in back. OEM are significantly better than powerstops or other drilled and slotted for me so far.

Your mileage may vary. I haven't used the brakes youre describing. Hope they work great for you, please report back.