Replacing body mounts with a full set of new factory ones (no lift). (1 Viewer)

[Saito]

No, the cushions are there. So are the bolts. They’re just not attached to each other any more. I can’t even really tell that they were one before. I doubt the bolts would come out easily, so they just sit inside the center hole of the cushion and keep it in place. . . Idk but rust had its way with the LR of my 80 when it was in Minnesota.

 

[sunrk]

Is it really a simple case of undo one side at a time, lift body gently to get clearance, replace stuff, lower, secure? How much of the internals (apart from my own stuff which I'd take out anyway to get access) needs to be removed?

I'm expecting I'll find I've got to deal with rust when I go to do the mounts on mine, but going by than pic of old vs new I think it should be a night-vs-day upgrade to the nvh behaviour.

 

[baldilocks]

Is it really a simple case of undo one side at a time, lift body gently to get clearance, replace stuff, lower, secure? How much of the internals (apart from my own stuff which I'd take out anyway to get access) needs to be removed?

I'm expecting I'll find I've got to deal with rust when I go to do the mounts on mine, but going by than pic of old vs new I think it should be a night-vs-day upgrade to the nvh behaviour.

My second and third row seats have been removed for years and removing the front seats makes access to the third mount much better. In my cargo area there is some gear and spare parts that probably weighs 100 pounds maybe 125.

Yes, remove the nuts from both sides of the truck. Then Jack up one side at a time. Install the new bolts without nuts then Jack up the other side. This is why I included a link to my thread earlier in this thread.

 

[YMT]

Is it really a simple case of undo one side at a time, lift body gently to get clearance, replace stuff, lower, secure? How much of the internals (apart from my own stuff which I'd take out anyway to get access) needs to be removed?

I'm expecting I'll find I've got to deal with rust when I go to do the mounts on mine, but going by than pic of old vs new I think it should be a night-vs-day upgrade to the nvh behaviour.

You will need to pull the carpet back enough to access the bolt heads, which are recessed. Seats should also be pulled, for ease (and any cleaning) of pulling the carpet.

Assuming your sheet metal body mount supports are still in good shape, then yes, it's a fairly easy process. If rust has eaten metal surrounding the bolts, then disregard, and, wheel the piss out of it as it is.

The body is around 600lbs, not including doors and interior bits. You're probably pushing 800#-ish with all doors on, and interior panels still attached (these are estimates).

 

[sunrk]

No carpet in mine as it's a DX (barn door) with vinyl flooring. It might be smart to remove the seats as that's a fair chunk of weight.

 

[ARFCOM15]

Completed this job in the past week. In my garage, no lift. Two jacks are handy. Pulling seats is a must and some various plastic parts to pull carpet back. I would buy all new hardware. I have a PNW truck and my hardware was in bad shape, I had to cut both #2 bolts to remove.

Little hands and various extensions and 14MM wrenches are needed. Big impact would have been nice, I need to buy one.

Makes a difference, cab and driving feels more stable overall.

 

[cartercd]

I just replaced all my body mounts on my ‘97 U.S. spec truck this weekend. Although not particularly difficult, it did take me all day. I have a zero-rust truck, which made things much easier. Some helpful hints for those of you embarking on this task.

•OEM parts are ridiculously expensive, so many people are using the Febest alternative. I ended up having to order from Febest U.S., Febest Europe, Partsouq, and Amayama to get all the parts I needed.
•Febest is under the category “frame cushions” on their website. Toyota calls them “cab cushions”

•Tools needed:

•Every 14mm wrench in your arsenal. At a minimum a deep socket 14mm for the bottom nuts and 14mm socket for the top bolt. A 14mm ratcheting box end is helpful. I lost a socket into the body from the topside and couldn't get it out with a magnet. May it rest in peace and not rattle.​

•The frame cushions above the rear axle bolt straight into the body and not the frame. They have a #3 Phillips screw head, but also a 12mm hex head. The one on the driver side can be easily reached with a long extension. The one on the passenger side takes some creative use of extensions and circus-antics to get up through the panhard mount.​

•The far front and far rear mounts also have 14mm bolts that attach the mount to the frame. These do not have to be unbolted until after the body is lifted, which makes it easier.​

•The mount above my catalytic converters had a heat shield tac welded to the mount. It needed a 17mm socket. After removing this mount, I removed the heat shield with some prying and Dremel tool so I could reuse it.​

•You will need to remove your front seats and peal back the carpet to access some of the top bolts.
•My process was:

•Removed all nuts/bolts from the driver side​

•Loosened the hardware on the passenger side by ¼”​

•Jacked up the driver side, replaced the mounts, and loosely reinstalled the hardware​

•Finished removing hardware form the passenger side, jacked that side up, replaced the mounts, and fully tightened everything on the passenger side​

•Tightened all hardware on the driver side​

•I could access the top bolt head for the front right mount with a long extension along the side of the radiator. For the front left mount you ideally need to remove the battery box to access this bolt head. I instead used a Dremel to cut a slot in the bottom of the bolt and was able to use a screwdriver in the slot to keep the bolt from spinning while I used a box end wrench on the nuts.
•I jacked the body from 2 points between the front and rear wheels. I used a length of 2x4 and 4x4 to try to span across the underside to distribute the load. I also had various wood spacers to get my jacks to the right height. Sliders and catalytic converts required some creativity.
•Strap your axles to the frame so all of your jack motion goes into lifting the body, not unloading the suspension.
•The far rear mounts look almost identical. It appears the orientation of the rubber cavities in the mount are different. Pay attention to the part numbers and make sure you get them in the right place.
•Keep an eye on your engine fan blade. As you lift the body the fan and shroud may come into contact with each other at the lower part of the shroud. Mine made minimal contact (I could still spin the blade by hand) while still being able to replace the front mounts.
Here is a video I found of removing one of the front mounts: www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hy0zFXLT5g. And some other helpful info here: Body Mount Bushes Replacement - https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/body-mount-bushes-replacement.149317/

Have fun.

 

[OGBeno]

^^ Nice.

 

[Bambusiero]

recommend strapping under axles and over frame to prevent the springs from lifting everything as you jack up the body - you will be much more controlled - can put small blocks between body & frame to help you feel safe with your hands between things.

 

[Toy4Fun2]

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[sunrk]

Mine def need to be done - I tried to price up genuine parts and it was doing my head in. I don't think I've ever found place selling a complete set of genuine 80 series body mounts and associated parts as a kit. Quite a few aftermarket options. I'm not lifting the body - just want new factory style (or genuine) body mounts and hardware.

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Now it's mid 2023 and I'm going to start pricing up parts since I just want to do the job and improve the 80 back to what it would have been like for ride harshness and NVH ex factory.

I'm not wanting to lift the body, and not really a believer in using poly bush type mounts instead of rubber ones.