Replacement gas tank......what are my options?

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I have an oem Unit you can have. It hs no holes but got left outside my buddy's shop so developed a little rust inside. Its way less rusty than what showed up from cruiser parts (was returned)

It's yours if it's worth it to you to clean or coat somehow. I'm right at I-40 and I-85 if you ever go that way instead of 95


I believe I'm the poster with multiple failures. All at the same place. Currently not an issue after installing another used tank.

I did the weld, the braze, and the epoxy as fixes along the way. The epoxy lasted the longest for what it's worth. I do think the braze could be revisited by a better craftsman.
 
Wow $250 - $1,500

Options 1:

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Option 2 if you don't need 110 gallons:

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Better range for less

Safe to say these are your only options
 
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Been putting it off too long and decided to just get a replacement rather than wasting time pulling it down to see the cause of the leak :meh:

Was about to order a new tank from Onur, but my uncle talked me into getting a used one from a local junkyard for $150 out of a 96 LX.

They claim that it's in A grade condition, but we'll see when they drop it off :hmm:

Also found a listing for a new aftermarket tank on EBay for under $400 shipped

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-Lil...Land-Cruiser-4-5L-L6-/221988540792?nav=SEARCH

Tank pictured doesn't look right and the seller has yet to respond when I asked for real pic :popcorn:

Anyone here have one of these new knock-off tanks?
 
Seems a somewhat recent thread with 'mud guy had the problem 3 times and others as well. I don't recal his username of thread, but maybe more info there.
Me
 
@98 SNAKE EATER I went through this issue a few times, several other members have also. I had a grade A salvage tank at one point, it lasted about 3 months and developed the same crack in the same exact location as my previous tank and everyone else's. The metal where it cracks has been stretched WAY too thin for welding and brazing to be a solid solution. I tried brazing, soldering and welding each lasted about the same amount of time; Only a couple weeks. Solution.... Cut a peice of 18ga. Sheet metal into a leaf shape. Split it from the side inward. Form it to the compound surface where the crack forms cutting into it more as needed for a tight fix. Prepare the tank for welding. Sand the area the patch is going on clean. Tack weld the crack closed using short duration tacks. Grind the tacks flush to the tank. Place the patch over the area and weld it using tack welds one over the other making sure not to build up too much heat, hammer the patch tighter to the surface as you weld more of the circumference. Be aware that the top contour of the tank is also super thin toward the corner. Keep that in mind when forming your patch. The idea was that tacking the crack shut would prevent it from spreading, and the area patch reinforced the area by attaching all of the areas where the metal was thicker and preventing leaking should the crack reopen under the patch. 3 months and going strong...a lot longer than any other repair so far.

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Oh, and the circular weld you see In the final weld picture was that top edge I was referring to, it was to thin that when the wire touched it the material vaporized lol, left a dime sized hole from .023 wire had to cut a round patch and weld it in.
 
I bought a used tank from one of the members here on 'Mud and had it shipped to me. His tank had not cracked by then. They all crack in the same place.

BEFORE I changed my tank, I also changed my vapor canister and hoses. Then when I got the replacement tank ready, I coated it with POR15, installed all new gaskets (buy new hoses from Toyota too....the straight hose does NOT work...it kinks (fuel fill hose) and also buy the replacement high pressure hoses.

Then spray the INSIDE of the hoses and the OUTSIDE of the hard pipes with White Lithium grease (it won't degrade rubber like PB blaster)

It's nice not having a rolling Molotov Cocktail now........

I am keeping my old tank and will weld it when I get a chance. I will then use a torch to stress-relieve the area after welding.

Install a new pump screen, hose, and clip at the same time. Mine turned out to be clean as a whistle when I took it out, so I reused it as-is.

It has been said it's easier if you remove the drive shaft. I did it with it in, but it was a booger at times.
 
OK, so a little update.

The local junkyard didn't have any delivery guys on hand, so they said they'd give me the tank for $100 bucks if I picked it up myself :meh:

I eyeballed it as much as I could, but I was kicking myself for not bringing my borescope :bang:

Had a few little dents here and there, but otherwise looked solid on the outside :cool:

The inside, however, was filled with rusty dust (so much for being A grade) :rolleyes:

I took it anyways and figured I can just send it out to my local radiator shop and have it boiled :idea:

They suggested lining it with Red-Kote after a thorough cleaning :oops:

Now, I've used similar liners on motorcycle tanks and racing fuel cells with good results, but I've never done it to a tank with internal baffles :hmm:

Kinda worried about the coating getting to all the nooks and crannies :doh:

Anyone here have this done to their tanks?

Gunna drop it off tomorrow and see what they have to say about it
 
I work with old cars ( I know you do too) but absolutely EVERYONE that I have known that lined a tank has had the lining fail and clogged up everything. I will never line a tank on the Inside.
 
I work with old cars ( I know you do too) but absolutely EVERYONE that I have known that lined a tank has had the lining fail and clogged up everything. I will never line a tank on the Inside.

The only one I've ever had an issue with was Kreem (nasty stuff)

Our radiator shop says they've done thousands of tank with Redkote and has yet to see one come back, so only time will tell :meh:

Anyhoo, I finally got a chance to throw it in today :cool:


(Rusty junkyard tank before)

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I actually took a sh!t ton of photos, but my stupid phone only saved these :bang:


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No more leaks, no more smell :)
 
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