Removing Shifter Lever and TCase Lever on an 84 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[Javelin]

Hey everyone

I’m about to tackle my carpet install and I am having trouble removing the shifter lever and the T case lever. I have read that all you do is push down and turn but it won’t budge. Also for the tcase seems like there is a nut holding it on? Here’s what I am dealing with. Any advice or tips would be awesome. Thanks!

Pics

 

[Paul DiNapoli]

i just wrapped up an H55 swap in my FJ62 - for the main shift lever it is indeed just a push down and twist counter-clockwise to release. takes a fair bit of muscle to depress the spring..and the metal collar shown in this persons fingers has sharp edges...i wore rubber coated garden gloves.

the 4-lo linkage is just bolted onto that pivot arm...unbolt and it should slide off. there's a couple plastic bushings that it pivots on...don't lose them....i thought i lost one - found it in the driveway where i'd been working for 3 weeks.

 

[g-man]

On the trans put a rag over the round piece and push down and 1/4 turn and it pops out. On the t-case forget that first nut your pointing at. Go under the truck and unbolt it down lower. Pull a small cotter pin out where it hooks to the shift shaft on the t/case. Remove the nut where it is pinned to the transmission, I think you have to remove the shift gate too.

 

[g-man]

here's what it looked like when I pulled the t-case shifter out. I couldn't get that first nut loose so I just took the whole linkage out

 

[Javelin]

Ahhhh nice! Very helpful. Got the TCASE Lever out. Now time for the transmission lever. Turns out my TCASE lever wasn’t even connected to the linkage and is missing the cotterpin. LAME. Ordered a new pin from specter...along with 3 bolts that were missing from the boots.

 

[Javelin]

Got it out. Thanks everyone! I was pushing down on the lever itself not the silver ring...

 

[Dynosoar]

Put the cap from a spray paint can over the shifter hole to keep debris from ruining your day.

Dyno

 

[g-man]

Dude...its just a cotter pin and some 10mm bolts. Just go to a hardware store. You can prob buy a whole plastic box of assorted cotter pins for the price and shipping from SOR

 

[Javelin]

I didn’t order just the cotterpin and bolts. I had a big list going that I added it too. I covered that hole with painters tape to prevent debris from going down into it.

 

[slomoe]

future reference.......you don't really need to remove the TC lever for a carpet job but the extra room will probably make it easier.
'

 

[Gundo]

Update to an older thread, as this one really helped me today.

Ordered new rugs from @dnp and they are just super. Can’t say enough good things about them.

But getting them just right around both shifters is one item that had me anxious. Around the shift boots, I really want to have the carpet on top of metal surrounds, not metal surrounds on top of carpet as some have done.

So I removed both the shifter (from above, easy push down and quarter twist) and t-case lever from below. Easy enough. One bolt and a cotter pin.

As a result I was able to get carpets perfectly flat and fitted. If there is too much carpet up front by the fire wall it will not lay flat on the transmission hump.

Then, by complete accident, I noticed I could see my shop light under the truck through the carpet inside the cab where the shifters should be.

This made it very easy to be super precise with the cuts. I’m sure you could just poke through with a knife, but it was more fun with the light guiding me. You can also see the bolt holes that need to be melted open in carpet for the final install of the shifter surrojnds
Pics show before cutting and after.

 

[Joa]

Update to an older thread, as this one really helped me today.

Ordered new rugs from @dnp and they are just super. Can’t say enough good things about them.

But getting them just right around both shifters is one item that had me anxious. Around the shift boots, I really want to have the carpet on top of metal surrounds, not metal surrounds on top of carpet as some have done.

So I removed both the shifter (from above, easy push down and quarter twist) and t-case lever from below. Easy enough. One bolt and a cotter pin.

As a result I was able to get carpets perfectly flat and fitted. If there is too much carpet up front by the fire wall it will not lay flat on the transmission hump.

Then, by complete accident, I noticed I could see my shop light under the truck through the carpet inside the cab where the shifters should be.

This made it very easy to be super precise with the cuts. I’m sure you could just poke through with a knife, but it was more fun with the light guiding me. You can also see the bolt holes that need to be melted open in carpet for the final install of the shifter surrojnds
Pics show before cutting and after.
View attachment 2570016

View attachment 2570019

@Gundo - Amazing. Just about ready to tackle dnps carpet install myself. Any chance you have an after picture? after placing the shift boots? The metal bracket from the shift boot is still visible over the carpet, no? Apart from removing both Trans and T-case levers and placing LIGHTs under car for hole cutting, any other game changing suggestions for the carpet install? Intimidated by it....

 

[Gundo]

@Gundo - Amazing. Just about ready to tackle dnps carpet install myself. Any chance you have an after picture? after placing the shift boots? The metal bracket from the shift boot is still visible over the carpet, no? Apart from removing both Trans and T-case levers and placing LIGHTs under car for hole cutting, any other game changing suggestions for the carpet install? Intimidated by it....

Hey there. It’s really not that bad. Just take it on step by step.

Here’s an after picture - though I did manage to get the shifter boot to cover the metal plate a bit better.

 

[Joa]

Hey there. It’s really not that bad. Just take it on step by step.

Here’s an after picture - though I did manage to get the shifter boot to cover the metal plate a bit better.

View attachment 3307178

View attachment 3307179

Awesome! thank you. The first picture is exactly what I wanted to see. Gonna tackle it next week!

 

[Gundo]

Great. Have fun. The reward to effort ratio is quite high on this one. It just looks, smells and feels so good when done, you’ll never look back.
I also took the chance to soundproof the entire floor of the cruiser. Made a world of difference.

 

[Joa]

Great. Have fun. The reward to effort ratio is quite high on this one. It just looks, smells and feels so good when done, you’ll never look back.
I also took the chance to soundproof the entire floor of the cruiser. Made a world of difference.

View attachment 3307330

Might have to do the same! have some noico left over from another project that could be put to good use. Your 60 looks clean! Super cool

 

[ax0n]

@Gundo - doing the same thing, and am wondering if I missed anything about reinstalling the shifter lever. It goes in fine where I expect it to - but it’s not engaging the transmission at all. Can shift it around…. Any trick to reinstalling the lever?

 

[OSS]

Check out the info in the thread below. If the shift lever wasn’t in neutral when it was pulled out - things can get out of alignment (but are fixable).



Shifter gets stuck when moving left to right - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/shifter-gets-stuck-when-moving-left-to-right.1295788/page-2

 

[ax0n]

Check out the info in the thread below. If the shift lever wasn’t in neutral when it was pulled out - things can get out of alignment (but are fixable).



Shifter gets stuck when moving left to right - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/shifter-gets-stuck-when-moving-left-to-right.1295788/page-2

Got it. Thank you very much.

 

[jbk]

What brand sound proof did you use, thickness and approximate sq footage do you need?