Removing a 4x4 Labs rear bumper (1 Viewer)

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Jun 7, 2010
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Rock Hill
I bought another Mudder's 80 that already had a 4x4 Labs rear bumper installed. The powdercoat finish is flaking off really badly, so I'm taking it to a shop to have it sandblasted and a new powdercoat applied. I think I have all the damn bolts off (some of which had also gotten pretty corroded), but I'm still struggling to pull the bumper off the back. Anybody have any tips?
I have all the swingouts and the arms off. I already got the 4 bolts that screw into the bottom of the frame, the six smaller bolts that screw into the side of the frame. My auxiliary fuel tank was also bolted to a lip on the back of the bumper, and I have those bolts off as well.

Am I missing anything? Do I just need to apply more muscle?

I tried a search, but I seem to be the only dope that can't figure out how to yank the damn thing off :bang:
 
Maybe contact the op and he can give you a clue. Any chance of spot welds to hold it in place? Just corrosion between the surfaces?

I have a 4+ expedition on my 80 that is in need of same. Debating rhinolining it after a good acid batch and flash prevention. You can see the flash on mine. Just lazy work. Good design and solid, but lazy prep. For shame.

Either way, tuning in for outcome

Eta, how aggressive have you been? If you hit the bumper with a rubber mallet is rust falling out?

How bout some pics of what you're working with.
 
This is the only picture I took tonight. I think the back of the bumper jostled down about an inch or so, but I can shake the whole rig by yanking on the bumper. There are pieces of powder coat that will come off, but the rust itself isn’t really shaking off.
IMG_7046.jpeg
 
If you know you have all the bolts removed, you can use the toyota bottle jack between the bumper and either the OEM spare tire mount or the rear crossmember (use 4"x4" to extend) to push the bumper off. Not sure if that's possible with your fuel tank. When I built my bumper it ended up pretty tight on the frame and I had to do this to take it off for powdercoating.
 
Here is the webpage that has a link to download the install instructions. This should help.

 
If you know you have all the bolts removed, you can use the toyota bottle jack between the bumper and either the OEM spare tire mount or the rear crossmember (use 4"x4" to extend) to push the bumper off. Not sure if that's possible with your fuel tank. When I built my bumper it ended up pretty tight on the frame and I had to do this to take it off for powdercoating.
I don't think that will work for me unless I drop the auxiliary tank that's sitting in the spare tire well. I just tried spraying all of the contact points between the bumper and the frame with penetrating oil to see if that will help shake it loose for when I try again after work. My first thought (after a night of random insomnia, dehydrated, and with a bit of frustration rage) was to strap the bumper to a tree and drive away. Is there any reason I shouldn't take a more moderate approach and use the jack idea with a hi-lift, but pull the bumper off with the hi lift instead of pushing it off with the bottle jack? Obviously need a very solid anchor point.

Here is the webpage that has a link to download the install instructions. This should help.

Thanks, I did review the install instructions and the bolts I removed are consistent with those instructions. Except for the two additional bolts where the auxiliary tank was connected to the bumper.
 
Get the longest strongest pipe (like 3 ft minimum) you can find and stick it in the hitch receiver, then press down (jump) on the end of it. Might have to think safety first doing that, but I would imagine even if rust is holding it in place it should break loose.

Tree not a terrible idea if all the bolts / welds are removed.
 
Hi lift jack to a tree, way more control than trying to drive away.
You may want someone setting in the drivers seat with there foot on the brake as to not potentially damage any drive train components.
Be ready for everything to fall to the ground 😳
 
Previous owner confirmed that there were no additional weld points, so I think it’s just tight and maybe stuck at a couple points from corrosion. I think I’ll try the hi lift jack winching method if the friends and family group effort doesn’t work.
 
Previous owner confirmed that there were no additional weld points, so I think it’s just tight and maybe stuck at a couple points from corrosion. I think I’ll try the hi lift jack winching method if the friends and family group effort doesn’t work.
Hit it with WD 40 at all bolt holes and joints, that should help as well.
 

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