Remove lower control arm on-frame No. 2 Bushing: dimensions and parts to do it are attached (3 Viewers)

[ccasey]

This method has been covered elsewhere on the forum with the exception of dimensions needed to find tools/parts available in your own location. Below is what I was able to use via Pep Boys and Home Depot, but these are very generic parts, so should be readily available in most places.
1. 1/2” hex bolt, 10” long. Coarse thread worked for me, fine thread would work also. A carriage bolt will not work - it will just spin the socket.
2. 1/2” nut plus (2) 1/2” washers
3. 35mm socket, Gearhead 33335
4. 2-1/2” hex socket, OTC part #6921
5. (Optional?) 70mm diameter or larger bearing press adapter. I say optional because this spreads the pressure over the outer rim of the OTC part. The cross beam on the OTC part is thick, but only welded on one side, and clearly was not designed to take the kind of pressure it’s going to be used for this application. I used one, as shown in the pictures.

Parts and manufacturers change over the years, so just make sure whatever socket you use to pull the bushing through the frame is slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the bushing, 47.60mm. The Gearhead socket I used had an outside diameter of 45.94mm.

Set the parts up as shown in the last picture, start tightening, and you should be able to pull it right out.

These pictures were from the passenger side.

For installation, just reverse the parts and pull the new bushing into the frame.

 

[brownfox]

this is the final part of my front end rebuild that is holding me up. I sourced all the parts for this and when I finally made the attempt it wouldn’t budge. I hit it with wd40 and pb blaster over the last few weeks as well.

Finally just toasted the bushing rubber and am going to take my die grinder to the sleeve.

Has anyone else had success with the method posted?

 

[Qtonic]

I used the same method with other items. Worked great, better than I expected it would. The bushing tapers out toward the last ~3/4" on the side with the lip. I first got it under reasonable pressure with the tool and then hit it with a propane torch in the vicinity of the taper (near the right side in the photo above just around the side that's open at the frame mount). I didn't need to go crazy with the heat. Just a bit, then a little more tension and it began to move. Once it moves that 3/4 inch or so its quite easy. I removed the tool and wiggled and tapped it out the rest of the way. On the other side it popped and moved before I even got heat on it, so that isn't always necessary, but may help if it's giving you trouble. I think the most important part is making sure whatever you use on the pushing side is just the right size to contact the lip.

 

[brownfox]

Yeah I had a socket that was the right OD. It actually crushed a bit of the bushing sleeve but it didn’t move. I think mine were extra rusted in place

 

[Patassa]

Thanks for the write up. I'm also struggling my way through this. After snapping 3 bolts trying to get the 1st No.2 bushing out, I went and bought a Sawzall. 2+ hrs of struggling was over in 4 minutes with the sawzall and a chisel.

I also snapped a bolt getting the new bushing in. I'm using course thread bolts from Home Depot, fine thread would probably do better in this case. Also, your intuition about the 70mm press adapter is right on. The cross piece on my socket is bending and tearing, hopefully I can get the 2nd No.2 bushing in before it gives way completely.

These bushings have been the hardest part of my entire front suspension rebuild and steering rack replacement (which went surprisingly smoothly).

Godspeed, gentlemen.

 

[brownfox]

Poly bushings were a breeze to put back in, but getting the old ones out was a nightmare. I’m surprised the sawzall worked, I would have thought the bushing sleeve was too tough. I used a die grinder.

 

[Patassa]

Poly bushings were a breeze to put back in, but getting the old ones out was a nightmare. I’m surprised the sawzall worked, I would have thought the bushing sleeve was too tough. I used a die grinder.

I bought the milwaukee carbide tipped blades for thick metal. Cut through it like butter, almost too well (my frame has some battle scars now).

 

[FNCY VW]

I actually did mine with a friend this weekend. Air chisel had each side out in under a minute.

 

[shtbrwn86]

for those of you who have used this method with the socket and bolt how much torque did you need to put on it? I stripped out some standard grade Home Depot bolts so I switched to a fine thread grade 8 bolt. I have a breaker bar on it and the bar is flexing yet I see zero movement of the bushing.

what should I expect? Will it just pop out all of a sudden? Or will I start to see it slowly move? It just seems like I’m putting a crap ton of torque on the bolt. I know it kind of looks like the 35mm socket is resting on the frame but it’s not. It’s on the bushing frame. Looking closely at it, the socket looks a little crooked. Maybe that’s the problem? I’m just trying to figure out what I should be expecting.

 

[flintknapper]

for those of you who have used this method with the socket and bolt how much torque did you need to put on it? I stripped out some standard grade Home Depot bolts so I switched to a fine thread grade 8 bolt. I have a breaker bar on it and the bar is flexing yet I see zero movement of the bushing.

what should I expect? Will it just pop out all of a sudden? Or will I start to see it slowly move? It just seems like I’m putting a crap ton of torque on the bolt. I know it kind of looks like the 35mm socket is resting on the frame but it’s not. It’s on the bushing frame. Looking closely at it, the socket looks a little crooked. Maybe that’s the problem? I’m just trying to figure out what I should be expecting.

View attachment 2643931

View attachment 2643932

View attachment 2643933

View attachment 2643934

The bushing is tapered and once it starts to move....(break free from the rust bond) it will move steadily. BUT two things I would highly recommend:

1. Dispense with the 1/2" bolt idea suggested in the beginning of this thread. Go to your local big box store and get a 12" piece of 5/8" all thread (and nuts and washers to fit). Depending how rusted to the frame your bushing is.....you'll be putting some serious pressure on it to get it to move.

2. If you don't have a small propane torch go and get one. They are inexpensive and will make this job much easier. Apply a good amount of pressure to the bushing (tighten until you really can't move it anymore) then apply heat at the bottom of the mount it is in. It will either 'pop' when it gives or you'll be able to get a few turns on your wrench/socket, but it WILL loosen it. Once the bushing has moved the first 1/2" to 3/4" it will come out steadily.

Before installing the new bushing, clean the bore of the mount with whatever you have on hand and 'lightly' oil or grease the outer shell of the new bushing. It will go in MUCH easier than it came out. In fact...you can install it the first 1/3 way by hand.

Don't forget to notice there is a 'spacer' (the purpose of which escapes me) on this bushing. Remove it and install on the new one.

 

[Patassa]

for those of you who have used this method with the socket and bolt how much torque did you need to put on it? I stripped out some standard grade Home Depot bolts so I switched to a fine thread grade 8 bolt. I have a breaker bar on it and the bar is flexing yet I see zero movement of the bushing.

what should I expect? Will it just pop out all of a sudden? Or will I start to see it slowly move? It just seems like I’m putting a crap ton of torque on the bolt. I know it kind of looks like the 35mm socket is resting on the frame but it’s not. It’s on the bushing frame. Looking closely at it, the socket looks a little crooked. Maybe that’s the problem? I’m just trying to figure out what I should be expecting.

View attachment 2643931

View attachment 2643932

View attachment 2643933

View attachment 2643934

I went through several course thread pieces of all thread and bolts. You might need fine thread AND hardened, Napa might have something stronger than hardware store. It will eventually "Pop" out a little, then pop out a little more, it's not easy at all. Heating with a little propane torch helps immensely.

 

[shtbrwn86]

I went through several course thread pieces of all thread and bolts. You might need fine thread AND hardened, Napa might have something stronger than hardware store. It will eventually "Pop" out a little, then pop out a little more, it's not easy at all. Heating with a little propane torch helps immensely.

I do have a propane torch and I did heat it up but not sure how hot to get it? Few seconds with the torch? 20 seconds?

 

[shtbrwn86]

Also what are you guys using to torque these bolts? Regular box wrenches? I’m just concerned the breaker bar is putting too much pressure on the mount. From what I’ve read it does take a considerable amount of force to remove. The FSM shows two hand wrenches on their SST.

 

[shtbrwn86]

The bushing is tapered and once it starts to move....(break free from the rust bond) it will move steadily. BUT two things I would highly recommend:

1. Dispense with the 1/2" bolt idea suggested in the beginning of this thread. Go to your local big box store and get a 12" piece of 5/8" all thread (and nuts and washers to fit). Depending how rusted to the frame your bushing is.....you'll be putting some serious pressure on it to get it to move.

2. If you don't have a small propane torch go and get one. They are inexpensive and will make this job much easier. Apply a good amount of pressure to the bushing (tighten until you really can't move it anymore) then apply heat at the bottom of the mount it is in. It will either 'pop' when it gives or you'll be able to get a few turns on your wrench/socket, but it WILL loosen it. Once the bushing has moved the first 1/2" to 3/4" it will come out steadily.

View attachment 2644062

Before installing the new bushing, clean the bore of the mount with whatever you have on hand and 'lightly' oil or grease the outer shell. It will go in MUCH easier than it came out. In fact you can install it the first 1/3 way by hand.

View attachment 2644064

Don't forget to notice there is a 'spacer' (the purpose of which escapes me) on this bushing. Remove it and install on the new one.


View attachment 2644065
View attachment 2644066

I’ve read your other posts on this flint and they are much appreciated. I don’t know why I thought that the bore sleeve (the part you heat with the torch ) was part of the bushing and not a sleeve. Well looking at your pictures now I need to go back and double check that my socket is actually pressing on the bushing shell and not the outer bore. I’m just a little concerned about bending or damaging the frame mount. How likely/possible might that be?

 

[flintknapper]

I went through several course thread pieces of all thread and bolts. You might need fine thread AND hardened, Napa might have something stronger than hardware store. It will eventually "Pop" out a little, then pop out a little more, it's not easy at all. Heating with a little propane torch helps immensely.

Bet you used 1/2" ?

5/8" coarse thread will put plenty of pressure on the bushing without stripping out.

Then as you have alluded to: HEAT the mount the bushing is in....that is the secret to this. These bushing were far and away the easiest of the ones I replaced. Both to remove and install.

But 'heating' is the trick.

If a person is too stubborn, lazy or cheap to get a small propane torch....then they deserve every bit of grief removing these bushings can dish out.

 

[flintknapper]

I’ve read your other posts on this flint and they are much appreciated. I don’t know why I thought that the bore sleeve (the part you heat with the torch ) was part of the bushing and not a sleeve. Well looking at your pictures now I need to go back and double check that my socket is actually pressing on the bushing shell and not the outer bore. I’m just a little concerned about bending or damaging the frame mount. How likely/possible might that be?

Your 'press' tool does in fact need to provide clearance from the 'bore' but at the same time make good contact with the outer shell of the bushing. I doubt you'll distort or expand the bore of the mount if that is your worry, or crush the entire thing by applying too much pressure (though I'm sure there's someone out there that could manage).

I'm going to post a series of pics that might help folks visualize what we are dealing with, but the main things to remember are:

1. Apply steady pressure to the bushing (no impacts here). The amount of tension needed will vary depending on how rusted the bushing is to bore it is sitting in. Once you break that bond....it will be all downhill from there.

2. Use a 5/8" bolt/allthread, its just better than 1/2".

3. USE HEAT to expand the bore the bushing is in. You'll thank yourself later.

 

[flintknapper]

Whatever you use for a 'press tool' it must accomplish two things. Clear the serrated inner sleeve (in diameter and length) and be of an outside diameter to clear the bore the bushing is mounted in while still contacting the outer shell of the bushing.

Set up your system and put a good amount of pressure on the bushing.

Continued next post:

 

[flintknapper]

Now for the important part: HEAT the bushing mount.

Continue to alternate heating and applying more pressure. You will feel the bushing giving way (you'll get small amounts of turn of the wrench/socket) or it might even pop some. From there its all downhill. Keep a little heat on it and keep cranking on the removal tool. Be sure and use washers to make turning the nut(s) easier and grease under each.

The bushing is tapered and after it is about 1/2 way out you can just tap it out.

DON'T throw it away just yet. There is a spacer nestled at the lip of the bushing you need to remove and install on the new one.

IF your's is too rusted or damaged upon removal a new one is this part number:

Continued next post:

 

[flintknapper]

Thoroughly clean the bore of the bushing mount. Doesn't matter what you use. Don't be a lazy a$$, take pride in your work and do it right.

A cupped wire wheel on a battery drill/other works well, but even crocus cloth and doing it by hand will work. Just get it clean.

Lightly grease/lube the outer shell of the new bushing and place in the bore. It will go in about 1/3rd the way by hand. DON'T drive/pound it in with a hammer. Use the threaded tool to install it. It will go IN so much easier than it came out.

 

[flintknapper]

I do have a propane torch and I did heat it up but not sure how hot to get it? Few seconds with the torch? 20 seconds?

No...No, we're talking several minutes. You can NOT overheat it with a propane torch (damage the integrity of the steel). You CAN heat it so long that heat transfers from the mount to the outer shell of the bushing (basically canceling out any advantage you had) but you should have movement of the bushing by then if you are constantly keeping more pressure on the nuts.

Don't be afraid to pour the heat to it. Paint will burn and flake off....not to worry, you can touch that up. Get after it, it will give up.