Remove leafs from leaf pack to improve ride quality? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 29, 2017
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Location
Whitsundays, North Queensland, Australia
Hey everyone,

I have 300kg constant load EFS leaf springs. They are rough as guts even after months of driving them they are still rough. I want to know which leaf i remove to make them softer? I can't find a straight answer, some say the second from the bottom others say the first one that isn't connected to the mounting spring. Which do i remove? Thanks.
 
This might be of some help.......
 
This might be of some help.......
Thats the one i read. People didn't really specify the best leaf to remove.
 
Are the leaves clean and smooth?
 
Brings up a question I have wanted answered for a long time. I have a HJ45 pickup with OME springs. I assume the springs are heavy duty so the truck can haul heavy things. I will not be hauling anything. I would like to have a better ride as well as even out the stance. If I read correctly remove the third spring down in the back?

Thanks..

25.jpg
 
Fj45 springs (at least those on my '65) were so stout and thick that I think the only way to get a better ride would be to put an old 2F in the bed and leave it there.
 
The longest spring in a leaf spring pack applies the most lift. Obviously you can't remove the first leaf cuz it has the molded eye on it, but removing the closest leaf to the top that's not part of the eye (military wrap), will give the most relief. That's usually the third from the top
 
I purchased heavy OME for my 60 with intent to remove one leaf to get a medium duty ride. There were two leafs of roughly same size in each rear pack. Neither has a wrap. I removed one of these duplicate leafs from each rear spring pack. I didn’t remove anything from the front pack. The ride feels same as the medium OME on my 62.
 
The longest spring in a leaf spring pack applies the most lift. Obviously you can't remove the first leaf cuz it has the molded eye on it, but removing the closest leaf to the top that's not part of the eye (military wrap), will give the most relief. That's usually the third from the top
Thanks, im not looking for a crazy amount of relief just enough so it's not super rough, will only have the spare wheel hanger on the back.
 
Thanks, im not looking for a crazy amount of relief just enough so it's not super rough, will only have the spare wheel hanger on the back.
I know this is pretty old, however was wondering how it went with the medium relief for the rear springs
I also have the same setting (I think) from EFS and it is so harsh that the shocks never collapse enough to hide the lower 60 mm of the rod.
Also.......it breaks ny back
Was also thinking of removing the 3rd leaf from the main (including) and maybe also the 5th.
But, also was wandering what would be the major difference in the dynamic behavior and static height with removing leaves from the bottom (shorter) vs leaves from the upper part (longer).
It seems that defferent part of the travel will behave differently......if this makes any sense.
Hope someone sees this and revive the thread
 
I know this is pretty old, however was wondering how it went with the medium relief for the rear springs
I also have the same setting (I think) from EFS and it is so harsh that the shocks never collapse enough to hide the lower 60 mm of the rod.
Also.......it breaks ny back
Was also thinking of removing the 3rd leaf from the main (including) and maybe also the 5th.
But, also was wandering what would be the major difference in the dynamic behavior and static height with removing leaves from the bottom (shorter) vs leaves from the upper part (longer).
It seems that defferent part of the travel will behave differently......if this makes any sense.
Hope someone sees this and revive the thread
Short update:
I have disassembled the rear springs, cleaned, and removed 3rd and 5th leaves, making it a 7 leaf pack.
Bottom line, it finally drives like a proper offroad vehicle as opposed to a locomotive.
Description and pictures in 70 series WDYD Post #9,650.

Hope this helps someone.
 

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