Removal of Factory Hubs 1975 FJ55 - Free and Locked

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Thanks all for all of your help.... patience is the key. You guys really helped me to think this through to get this "handle/cover" off. Unique system.

What do you think.... once I get the snap ring off, should the rest of the front axle be the same and I can use the FSM and Haynes for replacement of the seals?

I have got MerlinridesAgain and Coolerman's thread to move forward with the rest of the job.
 
75PIG said:
Thanks all for all of your help.... patience is the key. You guys really helped me to think this through to get this "handle/cover" off. Unique system.

What do you think.... once I get the snap ring off, should the rest of the front axle be the same and I can use the FSM and Haynes for replacement of the seals?

I have got MerlinridesAgain and Coolerman's thread to move forward with the rest of the job.
Click to expand...

Looking at your pics, I was probably wrong (as I often am) to suggest those hubs are poor quality. What do you think? Is the operation reliable and sturdy enough?

Yep... I think the rest of the front axle is pretty common..

BTW - This is the seal that will be responsible for all the gear oil:
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Seal2.webp

:beer:
Seal1.webp
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Man....you guys are fast "posters." I did not get my last post done before three responses came in. Will look for the flat/duckbill pliers to remove the snap ring.

Lostmarbles, would appreciate the reassembly instructions if it is not too much trouble. My son is going to continue to work on this tomorrow, and the next day, and probably the next day, so the instructions would be great.

Do I have to take the free wheel assembly apart or just soak it in solvent to clean up the gear oil? We will be diving into the axle to replace the seals and maybe replace the knuckle bearings.

Again, great help from all of you guys. Great recommendations for me to "noodle" on.
 
Wow, again. You are too fast.

The hubs appear to be high quality and functional. Will probably use again if I did not bugger it them up with the screwdriver. I completely spaced on the "O" ring. and it is clear as a bell shown and listed on the schematic. Surprised did not wreck it.

Thanks for identifying the Target seal that is causing the problem. Will probably order a rebuild kit once I am able to inspect the the materials.

My son will benefit from all of this posting since it is directly applicable to this situation.
 
75PIG said:
Lostmarbles, would appreciate the reassembly instructions if it is not too much trouble. My son is going to continue to work on this tomorrow, and the next day, and probably the next day, so the instructions would be great.
Click to expand...

OK ... They'll follow this then.........

..Do I have to take the free wheel assembly apart or just soak it in solvent to clean up the gear oil? We will be diving into the axle to replace the seals and maybe replace the knuckle bearings.
Click to expand...

If the parts are quite clean except for the oil then wiping them down with a lint-free rag would probably be OK.

75PIG said:
..The hubs appear to be high quality and functional. Will probably use again if I did not bugger it them up with the screwdriver. .
Click to expand...

Yes. They certainly look better than I originally thought..

Here we go with the inspection, reassembly and reinstallation:
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Reass4.webp

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Reass7.webp

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Reass10.webp

And here's what I've been up to all afternoon...

DenonPMA1500R.webp

We lost one channel on our Denon PMA1500R stereo amplifier so it took me ages to track the fault down to the power transistor arrowed.

Had to cut a hole in the ventilation slots underneath the amp to get access to resolder a dry joint on that little blighter!!!!

Now I'm sitting here posting this with Dire Straits Telegraph Road cranked up LOUD..

:beer:
Reass10.webp
DenonPMA1500R.webp
 
Sweet! :beer:

You are just a "Jack-of-all-Trades." Impressive. Will keep you all posted on progress.
 
Ran into another snag, we have been able to get the hub off and are now down to the brake. We need to get the brake line off, but do not know the best way to detach the line from the back of the brake. We have a female 10 mm plug that we had intended to use but are not sure if it would work for one of the ends of the lines. Not sure if there might be a a way to undo the nuts of the line without twisting the line completely, it does not seem like a swivel. Just hoping to see if anyone has an idea of which way would be best to attack this line and hopefully get further into the project.
Thanks.
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My son posted the previous message yesterday.

After looking at it further, will it be possible to disconnect the "hard" line that runs along the axle from the"rubber hose" line that runs to the wheel cylinders? The last picture provides a pretty good shoot of the setup. Once this "hard" line is disconnected (the fitting spins around the hard line) then place my brass cap onto the "hard" line to keep the brake fluid from leaking all over the garage floor. Hopefully my cap is deep enough to keep it from leaking (the cap thread is a 10 mm 1.0 pitch thread - hope that is the "hard" brake line thread).

I am not planning to change out the brakes so plan to remove the entire brake plate as a single unit. I somehow have to remove the "rubber" hose line from the axle to take off the brake plate system to proceed with the rest of the job. This connection at the axle of the rubber brake line hose seems weird so asking for more specific advise to remove the rubber brake line from axle. Maybe cleaning it up a bit would help me out.

Appreciate your input, my son will be continuing to work on this throughout the day while I am at work. Will check in on progress later.

I figure that once a get the process down for the passenger side, the driver side (US) should go more quickly. Hopefully able to pull the rest out tonight to inspect the knuckle bearing and order parts to put it back together.

Thanks Again
 
OK -- I see Coolerman's instructions.

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/14.htm

I think Figure 7 and 8 of Coolerman's post verifies the path forward for this removal. I assume I need to "free up" the rubber hose brake line retaining clip in order to move it. Hit it with some penetrating oil. Is it on a hinge? Same with the hard brake line - clean up the threads with a brass brush and hit it with penetrating oil. Sounds like there is some caution to be exercised in "Coolerman's" write-up below:

"At this point you may want to empty the front master cylinder reservoir of brake fluid so it doesn't leak out on the floor like mine did! Or just have a small container handy to set under the disconnected hard line to catch the fluid. Using the 17 mm and 10 mm flare nut wrenches take the rubber brake hose loose from the hard line. Be VERY careful here! You do not want to round off the nut on the hard line! Once the lines are separated then remove the metal clip holding the hose in place. See Fig. 7-8. Mine was rusted in place and required a bit of 'persuasion'."

Are these rubber hose lines still available? Not sure, but one of the pictures has a /75 on them. Wondering if they are from 1975. Should I put them back on or look for new ones?
 
Here's what I did on my 1970, I think your setup is the same.

brakeDiagram.png


Once you have that locking tab free, you should be able to remove the soft line from the axle. Replacing the rubber line may be difficult unless you transfer your fittings to a new line since I don't believe the metric fittings are available anymore.
 
We have continued farther into the axle. Now we have removed the cotter pin from the castle nut, but when first applying pressure with the tie rod separator we were seeing no movement in the rod and wanted to make sure we were doing this right. One question we had, was if we needed to first unbolt the 4 screws from the top of the knuckle? As that would then be free to move when we use the tie-rod separator. If it is possible to keep on the 4 bolts that would be preferred at this moment. If not we will proceed that way. Anyways, we were hoping to get some input on how people went at this, not wanting to do something that would wreck the system as we didn't seem movement when we first put on the tie-rod separator.
Also, with the bottom two pictures, we believe that there should be a rubber ring along the tie-rod separator that has deteriorated, would that be a problem with the approach we have taken so far?
And it also looks like there is a silicon sealant in the gaskets, but don't believe that is is supposed to be done this way? But thought we would ask and see if anyone had insight on this area, and if we are going to need to replace it with this or with new gaskets and seals to the trick? We weren't expecting this so thought we would ask and see what others have encountered.
Thanks.
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Thanks Merlin

Is the OTC tool on there correct? Seems like a lot of pressure. Needed though, I assume. Advise? Just keep cranking on the tool bolt to "lift and separate" per an old commercial.
 
You're on the right track :D

These things are stubborn, just keep cranking until either you run out of threads on the tool or the tre pops. It will be loud! Wear eye protection.

With your tool if it bottoms out on the tool, move to the other pivot and retry.
 
75PIG said:
Man....you guys are fast "posters." I did not get my last post done before three responses came in. Will look for the flat/duckbill pliers to remove the snap ring.

Lostmarbles, would appreciate the reassembly instructions if it is not too much trouble. My son is going to continue to work on this tomorrow, and the next day, and probably the next day, so the instructions would be great.

Do I have to take the free wheel assembly apart or just soak it in solvent to clean up the gear oil? We will be diving into the axle to replace the seals and maybe replace the knuckle bearings.

Again, great help from all of you guys. Great recommendations for me to "noodle" on.
Click to expand...

Marlin sells a double-lip seal that rides around the area where the original seal lined up...

http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/f...ice-parts/service-front-fj/hd-inner-axle-seal
 
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