- Thread starter
- #21
I don't think the original December 1972 F engine can bring the vehicle to 80mph. The gauge cluster is in kmh so it makes me think I am driving faster than I am.
Removal of custom 3 link coil over suspension and similar on rear
- Thread starter BlueMarblePA
- Start date
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brian
SILVER Star
so it's a non usa cruiser?
- Thread starter
- #23
Costa rican
Well, it's hard to say what the "at rest" steering geometry looks like but overall the links look pretty good. I have limit straps on mine and also retainers from the rear coils so that don't come out of the pockets. Minor stuff though. It looks like it flexes very nicely but there is certainly some stuff that needs to be addressed.
80MPH? Yeah, with a Vortec V8 and 37's it's pretty easy but I don't like it much, on a stock "F" motor 55MPH is a goal not a limit....
80MPH? Yeah, with a Vortec V8 and 37's it's pretty easy but I don't like it much, on a stock "F" motor 55MPH is a goal not a limit....
- Thread starter
- #25
The summary I am taking away from this is that overall it looks pretty good, but buyer should replace tie rod ends with better joints and install limit strap. Of course the nuances of how it actually handles in difficult situations is hard to predict from pictures. Thanks!
Drive it. Does it steer straight, brake well, handle an "S" maneuver OK? Any odd vibrations from the drivetrain?
We can guess from pictures all day but in the end a test drive will probably tell more. The radius arms are sound, Toyota built them.
The brackets looks heavy enough. The odd one is the panhard. I would prefer a double shear setup. They take a lot of stress.
How it drives and handles would tell you if the steering geometry is good.
We can guess from pictures all day but in the end a test drive will probably tell more. The radius arms are sound, Toyota built them.
The brackets looks heavy enough. The odd one is the panhard. I would prefer a double shear setup. They take a lot of stress.
How it drives and handles would tell you if the steering geometry is good.
Since @BlueMarblePA trusted me to look this rig over, I’ll throw out what I’ve seen.
First, limit straps would be must. Either some spacers in the rear or wheels with a different off-set would be a must especially if the rig is going off road.
Secondly, it handles and stops amazing. Has 4 wheel disc, rear look to be off of an 80 series. One of the nicest riding 40s I’ve ever driven.
Third, it has some minor issues the current owner wants addressed regardless if the truck sells or not. Basically, items needed to pass a PA state safety inspection.
Fourth, it has a painless wiring kit. This concerns me as if there is ever an electrical issue there won’t be a wiring diagram to follow. Sure, it can be figured out but repairs like that can be costly as it would be “time spent” scenario since you are at the mercy of whomever installed it.
In summary the body and frame are in excellent condition. One of the most solid frames I’ve ever seen, and the body is in remarkable shape. No signs of filler or short cuts. It runs great, but with the F engine it is painfully slow. I have become well versed in these trucks, but I am by no means an expert. I have a hard time assigning a value for the truck, but like I said the body and frame are super straight.
I’ve gave @BlueMarblePA my unbiased opinion on the truck, but without a solid grip on the market for these trucks (especially grey market) I have a hard time deciding if it’s a good, great, or terrible buy. I do know as of know now these trucks are a solid investment, I just don’t know enough about the pricing. If any of you guys have a good idea of what a “good deal” price is I’d pm @BlueMarblePA.
First, limit straps would be must. Either some spacers in the rear or wheels with a different off-set would be a must especially if the rig is going off road.
Secondly, it handles and stops amazing. Has 4 wheel disc, rear look to be off of an 80 series. One of the nicest riding 40s I’ve ever driven.
Third, it has some minor issues the current owner wants addressed regardless if the truck sells or not. Basically, items needed to pass a PA state safety inspection.
Fourth, it has a painless wiring kit. This concerns me as if there is ever an electrical issue there won’t be a wiring diagram to follow. Sure, it can be figured out but repairs like that can be costly as it would be “time spent” scenario since you are at the mercy of whomever installed it.
In summary the body and frame are in excellent condition. One of the most solid frames I’ve ever seen, and the body is in remarkable shape. No signs of filler or short cuts. It runs great, but with the F engine it is painfully slow. I have become well versed in these trucks, but I am by no means an expert. I have a hard time assigning a value for the truck, but like I said the body and frame are super straight.
I’ve gave @BlueMarblePA my unbiased opinion on the truck, but without a solid grip on the market for these trucks (especially grey market) I have a hard time deciding if it’s a good, great, or terrible buy. I do know as of know now these trucks are a solid investment, I just don’t know enough about the pricing. If any of you guys have a good idea of what a “good deal” price is I’d pm @BlueMarblePA.
- Thread starter
- #28
Here is a picture of suspension at rest.
I would probably play around with some different pitman arms to change the angle of the draglink to meet that of the track bar.
Also as mentioned, lose the TRE track bar and build double shear with a joint of your choice. Heim, johnny, clevite, etc.
Otherwise looks good. Any pics of the whole cruiser?
Also as mentioned, lose the TRE track bar and build double shear with a joint of your choice. Heim, johnny, clevite, etc.
Otherwise looks good. Any pics of the whole cruiser?
