Will Van
GOLD Star
Anybody have some suggestions on how to remove this water by-pass pipe on my 1HZ block? It is completely corroded.
Removal: 1HZ Water By-Pass Pipe on Block
- Thread starter Will Van
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I went through something similar with a very corroded water pipe for the ADCS cold start on the 1HDT.
Basically soak extensively with penetrating fluid for a few days, then I’d cut off the corroded part, weld on a some steel bar/all thread etc and make up a slide hammer to pull the part out. Bit hard to explain... but a large chunk of steel with a hole drilled through can be used with all thread welded to the hose pipe (depending how much clearance you’ve got...)
Basically soak extensively with penetrating fluid for a few days, then I’d cut off the corroded part, weld on a some steel bar/all thread etc and make up a slide hammer to pull the part out. Bit hard to explain... but a large chunk of steel with a hole drilled through can be used with all thread welded to the hose pipe (depending how much clearance you’ve got...)
In that case lots of penetrating fluid (over a number of days). You can buy some freeze agent stuff (chill it down) and tap on the flange with a screw driver/hammer to try and break the corrosion.
some sort of slide hammer is your best bet, but getting a solid grip on it will be difficult.
You could try vice grips and turning it... but I don’t like your chances.
thing is don’t rush into it, you need to let the penetrative stuff do it’s work.
you could also buy a cheap welder? The heat will help crack the corrosion as well...
Alternatively are you getting the block machined? Whichever shop you take it to would be able to get that out...
some sort of slide hammer is your best bet, but getting a solid grip on it will be difficult.
You could try vice grips and turning it... but I don’t like your chances.
thing is don’t rush into it, you need to let the penetrative stuff do it’s work.
you could also buy a cheap welder? The heat will help crack the corrosion as well...
Alternatively are you getting the block machined? Whichever shop you take it to would be able to get that out...
Does the FSM show this?
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 12,508
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
It is soft metal, just used an old screw driver or chisel or punch. Knock that though the outlet and work it out. It may come out in pieces.
Cheers
Cheers
I have used a cold chisel to collapse it in on itself and a rolling prybar
shop.snapon.com
pound in with brass drift and use permatex water sealer for freeze plugs etc.
Snap-on Store
pound in with brass drift and use permatex water sealer for freeze plugs etc.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 12,508
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
Clean the outlet hole in the block well. Tap it in very gently using a fairly large brass punch going around the edge as you tap it in. I would tell you to use a drift but because of the offset kick up of the outlet a drift won’t work.
I put a little FIPG around them when I tap them in. Opinions may vary on that.
Cheers
I have just been through a bit of a nightmare getting that part out let alone trying to find where the block drain is for the coolant water; still cant find.
The method I used to get this out:
1. After mangling the bend trying to get out I ended up with what looked like a frost pug with a hole in it. I could put my little finger in the hole and feel a little bit of water touching the part, so I put the jack under back axle, jacked and made safe, and then the water subsided to front I presume.
2. I then put heat on the part trying to not get flame on block (heat device seen in photo), maybe about 40-60 seconds, then I used a horticulture syringe with water to cool down part, WD-40'd, let cool down and then repeated this step.
3. Then I used a pilot bearing puller to get the part out (seen in photo plus photo of cardboard box, cost about $80 NZD).
Am very happy, now to get new part in; its currently cooling down in freezer.
Thanks for everyone's posts too; there were only a few sites I found with threads on this issue hence my contribution.
The method I used to get this out:
1. After mangling the bend trying to get out I ended up with what looked like a frost pug with a hole in it. I could put my little finger in the hole and feel a little bit of water touching the part, so I put the jack under back axle, jacked and made safe, and then the water subsided to front I presume.
2. I then put heat on the part trying to not get flame on block (heat device seen in photo), maybe about 40-60 seconds, then I used a horticulture syringe with water to cool down part, WD-40'd, let cool down and then repeated this step.
3. Then I used a pilot bearing puller to get the part out (seen in photo plus photo of cardboard box, cost about $80 NZD).
Am very happy, now to get new part in; its currently cooling down in freezer.
Thanks for everyone's posts too; there were only a few sites I found with threads on this issue hence my contribution.
