remote does not unlock or lock doors, but door switches do lock / unlock

[DWSD]

Darin,
I've sent out the body ECU today.

Make sure you disconnect the battery before plugging it in. I think my old one might have failed when I pulled the ACC relay and still ran the car.

Still, cross your fingers that it might work for you. It definitely performs some functions. Use some form of contact cleaner, too, on all of the terminals. That alone, might have been my problem.

Good luck,

Doug

 

[lexi4darin]

Xmas came early Doug. Got your present last night which was on my porch waiting in a nice lil package.

I'll try the connector spray and your junction/controller box on Thursday. Then I'll PM you back the results. We can discuss then.

Thanks!

 

[Justin Alderson]

Hi. In my effort to keep this concise, I may accidentally omit something so please post any questions you may have.

Here are some of the threads I've been reading to help me resolve this issue:
- https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/programming-a-transponder-key-for-99-tlc.14088/
- https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/re...oors-but-door-switches-do-lock-unlock.512912/
- https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/keyless-entry-works-intermittently.683293/#post-8237182
- plus anything even remotely related from ih8mud, clublexis, tlcfaq, etc.

Shortly after purchasing, I wanted to make sure I had a spare key in case I lost the existing master (w/remote). I also received a valet key (w/o remote) only to learn later that it was also programmed as a master. Not knowing that, I purchased 2 blanks w/remote transmitters off ebay but couldn't get into programming mode. I found 4 or 5 different sets of instructions online to get into programming mode, add remote, clear list, etc. After a few hundred attempts between them, I started looking at other reasons I couldn't do it.

Upon further research, I noticed that my door lock actuators would only go through the lock/unlock cycle a few times before they stopped working properly by going slower and slower until they wouldn't move anything. I went ahead and purchased a set of 5 actuator motors and when I had everything ready to go, using the various IH8MUD & Lexus LX470 threads to pull the driver door apart, replace the actuator motor... except that the motors with the regular "D" shaft were the wrong type. I needed the ones with a small brass bushing that was keyed with 2 flat areas on opposite sides. When all was said and done, I changed out the actuator motors on the DS, PS and the rear lift-gate. I had the doors down to 15-20 min to pull apart or restore. Lesson learned: verify which part you need prior to buying it.

At some point during those 3 weeks, the one good remote I had stopped working (mostly). Below are my findings::

- Can NOT get into key remote transmitter programming mode.
- All inside manual door locks work to lock or unlock that specific door, w/no effect on any other door.
- Front driver/passenger door lock/unlock (inside door armrest switch) works at all times to lock or unlock all doors.
- Front driver/passenger door external key lock would unlock that specific door only via mechanical rod.
- Rear lift gate will not lock or unlock with the key as the lock is on the bottom half and the actuator/gate release is on the top half, hence no mechanical connection between key/lock and latch, unlike the DS/PS doors.
- Using the key remote would no longer lock all doors (lock single press).
- Using the key remote would no longer unlock all doors (unlock double press).
- If any door is unlocked, clicking the key remote unlock will display a double-flash of light from the front, rear and dash/instrument cluster, but no audible unlock tone.
- If all doors are closed, but not already locked, clicking lock on key remote does nothing.
- If all doors are closed and locked, clicking lock on the key remote will display a single-flash of light from the front, rear and dash/instrument cluster, but no audible lock tone
- If all doors are closed and locked, security engages indicated by solid red security light on center console under radio.
- If all doors are closed and locked with security engaged (solid red security light on the center console), clicking key remote unlock any number of times does nothing.
- If vehicle is locked and secure (solid red security light), unlocking it with the key causes the alarm to sound and only placing the key into the ignition and turning to the "ON" position will turn it off (clicking anything on the remote will not turn it off after the alarm has sounded).

As a side note, in the middle of this ordeal, my alternator bearings started squeeling and running voltage at the battery was only 13.2V, rather than 14.2V - 14.7V. I opted to change it out myself as a trial run to replacing the timing belt later this summer. I did a write-up on that under a different thread. I mention this in case it's related.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/alternator-replacement.409471/page-6#post-9780334

From everything I've read, it appears to be the "CONTROLLER & JUNCTION, INSTRUMENT PANEL" unit, Toyota Part# 82791-60040. I verified this part# by pulling it for inspection. Using my VIN, it appears my rig was manufactured 12/98, so based on the following table (link listed below) w/column headers; Part#, Description, Model, From Date and To Date.

8279160030
CONTROLLER & JUNCTION, INSTRUMENT PANEL W(TILT & TELESCOPIC STEERING & POWER SEAT)
UZJ100
01/1998 - 07/1999

8279160031
CONTROLLER & JUNCTION, INSTRUMENT PANEL W(TILT & TELESCOPIC STEERING & POWER SEAT)
UZJ100
07/1999 - 08/2002

>> 8279160040
>> CONTROLLER & JUNCTION, INSTRUMENT PANEL
>> UZJ100
>> 01/1998 - 07/1999

8279160041
CONTROLLER & JUNCTION, INSTRUMENT PANEL
UZJ100
07/1999 - 08/2002

URL: http://toyota.17vin.com/catalog/791450/allyear/~~~~~~~~~~~~/8/8401F.html#82791A

So far, I've checked for any bad fuses multiple times (both under the hood and next to the DS dead pedal, including pulling and re-seating. I've verified all internal lights are working (dome, door, etc). When I pulled the unit to verify the part#, I cleaned the connections, and did some of the other suggestions made in the various forum threads. With everything else apparently working properly, the next logical step to me is test the controller unit by replacing it with a known good one... or trying my questionable controller unit on a rig with no known problems. Much to my chagrin, there are no 60040 or 60030 controller units for sale on ebay and a new one online is $300. I did see on ebay where a company will do ECM/ECU/PCM repairs for $180, but haven't contacted them to see if it's an option for this controller unit. I asked the local Toyota dealer if it can be flashed or reprogrammed and they said no, or at least they couldn't do it. Also, as I was writing this post, the fact that I no longer hear the lock or unlock audible tones makes me wonder which horn the system uses (I found 2 in front by grill and 1 on PS near air cleaner) and could it have somehow shorted? I'll check on that when I have a chance.

Can this controller unit be flashed/programmed or does it simply need to be replaced?

It seems to control many things, so I'm a bit concerned that purchasing a used/refurbished one will leave me with something not working that I wouldn't normally use or see an indicator for. Is this one of those parts it's ok to purchase used or should I stick to a new one and bite the bullet on the price?

I appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks for your time and assistance!

 

[Eliot]

Hi. In my effort to keep this concise, I may accidentally omit something so please post any questions you may have.

Here are some of the threads I've been reading to help me resolve this issue:
- Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC
- remote does not unlock or lock doors, but door switches do lock / unlock
- Keyless Entry Works Intermittently
- plus anything even remotely related from ih8mud, clublexis, tlcfaq, etc.

Shortly after purchasing, I wanted to make sure I had a spare key in case I lost the existing master (w/remote). I also received a valet key (w/o remote) only to learn later that it was also programmed as a master. Not knowing that, I purchased 2 blanks w/remote transmitters off ebay but couldn't get into programming mode. I found 4 or 5 different sets of instructions online to get into programming mode, add remote, clear list, etc. After a few hundred attempts between them, I started looking at other reasons I couldn't do it.

Upon further research, I noticed that my door lock actuators would only go through the lock/unlock cycle a few times before they stopped working properly by going slower and slower until they wouldn't move anything. I went ahead and purchased a set of 5 actuator motors and when I had everything ready to go, using the various IH8MUD & Lexus LX470 threads to pull the driver door apart, replace the actuator motor... except that the motors with the regular "D" shaft were the wrong type. I needed the ones with a small brass bushing that was keyed with 2 flat areas on opposite sides. When all was said and done, I changed out the actuator motors on the DS, PS and the rear lift-gate. I had the doors down to 15-20 min to pull apart or restore. Lesson learned: verify which part you need prior to buying it.

At some point during those 3 weeks, the one good remote I had stopped working (mostly). Below are my findings::

- Can NOT get into key remote transmitter programming mode.
- All inside manual door locks work to lock or unlock that specific door, w/no effect on any other door.
- Front driver/passenger door lock/unlock (inside door armrest switch) works at all times to lock or unlock all doors.
- Front driver/passenger door external key lock would unlock that specific door only via mechanical rod.
- Rear lift gate will not lock or unlock with the key as the lock is on the bottom half and the actuator/gate release is on the top half, hence no mechanical connection between key/lock and latch, unlike the DS/PS doors.
- Using the key remote would no longer lock all doors (lock single press).
- Using the key remote would no longer unlock all doors (unlock double press).
- If any door is unlocked, clicking the key remote unlock will display a double-flash of light from the front, rear and dash/instrument cluster, but no audible unlock tone.
- If all doors are closed, but not already locked, clicking lock on key remote does nothing.
- If all doors are closed and locked, clicking lock on the key remote will display a single-flash of light from the front, rear and dash/instrument cluster, but no audible lock tone
- If all doors are closed and locked, security engages indicated by solid red security light on center console under radio.
- If all doors are closed and locked with security engaged (solid red security light on the center console), clicking key remote unlock any number of times does nothing.
- If vehicle is locked and secure (solid red security light), unlocking it with the key causes the alarm to sound and only placing the key into the ignition and turning to the "ON" position will turn it off (clicking anything on the remote will not turn it off after the alarm has sounded).

As a side note, in the middle of this ordeal, my alternator bearings started squeeling and running voltage at the battery was only 13.2V, rather than 14.2V - 14.7V. I opted to change it out myself as a trial run to replacing the timing belt later this summer. I did a write-up on that under a different thread. I mention this in case it's related.
Alternator Replacement

From everything I've read, it appears to be the "CONTROLLER & JUNCTION, INSTRUMENT PANEL" unit, Toyota Part# 82791-60040. I verified this part# by pulling it for inspection. Using my VIN, it appears my rig was manufactured 12/98, so based on the following table (link listed below) w/column headers; Part#, Description, Model, From Date and To Date.

8279160030
CONTROLLER & JUNCTION, INSTRUMENT PANEL W(TILT & TELESCOPIC STEERING & POWER SEAT)
UZJ100
01/1998 - 07/1999

8279160031
CONTROLLER & JUNCTION, INSTRUMENT PANEL W(TILT & TELESCOPIC STEERING & POWER SEAT)
UZJ100
07/1999 - 08/2002

>> 8279160040
>> CONTROLLER & JUNCTION, INSTRUMENT PANEL
>> UZJ100
>> 01/1998 - 07/1999

8279160041
CONTROLLER & JUNCTION, INSTRUMENT PANEL
UZJ100
07/1999 - 08/2002

URL: 84.01F:SWITCH & RELAY & COMPUTER ,COWL ILLUST NO. 3 OF 9 ;(9801-0208)_Toyota

So far, I've checked for any bad fuses multiple times (both under the hood and next to the DS dead pedal, including pulling and re-seating. I've verified all internal lights are working (dome, door, etc). When I pulled the unit to verify the part#, I cleaned the connections, and did some of the other suggestions made in the various forum threads. With everything else apparently working properly, the next logical step to me is test the controller unit by replacing it with a known good one... or trying my questionable controller unit on a rig with no known problems. Much to my chagrin, there are no 60040 or 60030 controller units for sale on ebay and a new one online is $300. I did see on ebay where a company will do ECM/ECU/PCM repairs for $180, but haven't contacted them to see if it's an option for this controller unit. I asked the local Toyota dealer if it can be flashed or reprogrammed and they said no, or at least they couldn't do it. Also, as I was writing this post, the fact that I no longer hear the lock or unlock audible tones makes me wonder which horn the system uses (I found 2 in front by grill and 1 on PS near air cleaner) and could it have somehow shorted? I'll check on that when I have a chance.

Can this controller unit be flashed/programmed or does it simply need to be replaced?

It seems to control many things, so I'm a bit concerned that purchasing a used/refurbished one will leave me with something not working that I wouldn't normally use or see an indicator for. Is this one of those parts it's ok to purchase used or should I stick to a new one and bite the bullet on the price?

I appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks for your time and assistance!

Justin,

Did you ever resolve this issue? I'm experiencing similar issues and am thinking i need to replace my Body ECU / Controller & Junction, Instrument Panel.

My symptoms are as follows:
- Wireless key will lock all doors
- Wireless key will only unlock drivers door
- Armrest switch will lock all doors
- Armrest switch will only unlock drivers door
(based on these symptoms I'm assuming my unlock relay is good, so Body ECU must be bad)

Other symptoms that may be related:
- Moonroof does not open (doesn't function at all, never has since i bought the truck)
- Seat memory buttons do not work

I have had a leaky sunroof at one point but that issue only happens when the truck is parked on a slight incline. Maybe water sent a short to the Body ECU through the moonroof? Or leaked down near the body ECU.

I have:
- Replaced drivers and passenger actuators (no difference here)
- Removed the Controller and Junction box and cleaned all the connections with alcohol

Should i buy a used Body ECU? Or go new to ensure all functionality?

If anyone has any feedback, it would be much appreciated. I'm getting sick of climbing around the truck to unlock all the doors

 

[Justin Alderson]

Well... I finally took it in to a local shop specializing in Toyota's. They had it 4 days and I don't know how many hours they put in, but they only charged me for 1 hr diagnostics.

THE RESULT: Apparently there were two issues.

1. the primary key w/remote was sending out a continual alarm or error code. It still worked in the ignition, but even if everything else worked properly, it wouldn't remotely unlock or lock any of my doors. I had purchased a key w/remote on ebay and they used the VIN to program it. That worked like a champ. My valet key w/o remote that was programmed as a master works great locking, unlocking & starting.

2. when I changed the Passenger Side door lock actuator, I had to remove the connections to the exterior handle & lock. The small plastic clip that slips on to the back of the lock cylinder broke when I was removing it. Actually, one of the two clips broke off. When I put everything back together, I used some of the black gummy stuff that holds the plastic weather covering (sorry, don't what it's called) and put the plastic cap back on the lock cylinder the way I thought it came off. Apparently though I rotated it and it was continually sending a signal to the ECU that the door was unlocked. The shop identified this by removing the triangular plastic cover in the passenger side footwell where they disconnected the plug the powers all the electronic door lock and I think window functions (don't remember)... but it was a bundle of about 10-12 wires. When that was disconnected, the remote on the key locked and unlocked just fine. They wanted 2 more hours to pull the door apart and figure out the specifics, but I had a good idea what the problem was and it only takes me 15min to pull a door apart.

So, for now, I disconnected the electronics (3-wires) that go from the back of the exterior key lock cylinder on the Passenger Side door from the plug that's behind the door arm rest / controller. Plugged everything else back in and it seems to work ok for now, except I still can't get into the transceiver programming mode. Also, the horn used to beep quietly when locking / unlocking but I had disconnected all 3 horns out of respect for the neighbors while I was troubleshooting. When I connected them back up, they work when I press the horn on the steering console, but I only hear the clicks from the door locks opening/closing (and the lights blinking) when I click the key remote.

New part for #2 above is $51, but I've read that someone used a zip tie to hold it on, I just need to verify I put it on correctly. I'm hoping that getting that last sensor / input data into the ECU will enable the programming to work... I'll verify when I have time.

IN A NUTSHELL, that ECU seems to be pretty finicky about the data coming in and there doesn't seem to be any easy way to identify what may be sending a faulty signal. Disconnecting that connector in the passenger side footwell was a great idea and I'm guessing they have something similar in the driver side footwell. You might want to try that prior to replacing the ECU.

If you're convinced it's the ECU, I have a spare now that I know works properly. I'll have to lookup how much I paid, but will part with it for what I have into it, I think roughly half price compared to the ones online... as long as the part# is 82791-60040. If interested, I'll look it up and get you a firm price.

Hope this helps.

 

[Eliot]

Well... I finally took it in to a local shop specializing in Toyota's. They had it 4 days and I don't know how many hours they put in, but they only charged me for 1 hr diagnostics.

THE RESULT: Apparently there were two issues.

1. the primary key w/remote was sending out a continual alarm or error code. It still worked in the ignition, but even if everything else worked properly, it wouldn't remotely unlock or lock any of my doors. I had purchased a key w/remote on ebay and they used the VIN to program it. That worked like a champ. My valet key w/o remote that was programmed as a master works great locking, unlocking & starting.

2. when I changed the Passenger Side door lock actuator, I had to remove the connections to the exterior handle & lock. The small plastic clip that slips on to the back of the lock cylinder broke when I was removing it. Actually, one of the two clips broke off. When I put everything back together, I used some of the black gummy stuff that holds the plastic weather covering (sorry, don't what it's called) and put the plastic cap back on the lock cylinder the way I thought it came off. Apparently though I rotated it and it was continually sending a signal to the ECU that the door was unlocked. The shop identified this by removing the triangular plastic cover in the passenger side footwell where they disconnected the plug the powers all the electronic door lock and I think window functions (don't remember)... but it was a bundle of about 10-12 wires. When that was disconnected, the remote on the key locked and unlocked just fine. They wanted 2 more hours to pull the door apart and figure out the specifics, but I had a good idea what the problem was and it only takes me 15min to pull a door apart.

So, for now, I disconnected the electronics (3-wires) that go from the back of the exterior key lock cylinder on the Passenger Side door from the plug that's behind the door arm rest / controller. Plugged everything else back in and it seems to work ok for now, except I still can't get into the transceiver programming mode. Also, the horn used to beep quietly when locking / unlocking but I had disconnected all 3 horns out of respect for the neighbors while I was troubleshooting. When I connected them back up, they work when I press the horn on the steering console, but I only hear the clicks from the door locks opening/closing (and the lights blinking) when I click the key remote.

New part for #2 above is $51, but I've read that someone used a zip tie to hold it on, I just need to verify I put it on correctly. I'm hoping that getting that last sensor / input data into the ECU will enable the programming to work... I'll verify when I have time.

IN A NUTSHELL, that ECU seems to be pretty finicky about the data coming in and there doesn't seem to be any easy way to identify what may be sending a faulty signal. Disconnecting that connector in the passenger side footwell was a great idea and I'm guessing they have something similar in the driver side footwell. You might want to try that prior to replacing the ECU.

If you're convinced it's the ECU, I have a spare now that I know works properly. I'll have to lookup how much I paid, but will part with it for what I have into it, I think roughly half price compared to the ones online... as long as the part# is 82791-60040. If interested, I'll look it up and get you a firm price.

Hope this helps.

Justin,

Thanks a lot for your response. I ended up ordering a used ECU online and plugged it in and still no difference in my lock/unlock features. The ECU was bad though, with the rear wiper working non-stop. I find it hard to believe the door unlock function on the used ECU I got is behaving exactly like my ECU, so i've determined that my issue is not with the Body ECU. I'm thinking, maybe my door unlock relay is going bad?

Anyone have the diagram for this relay? Is it a 2 stage relay, 1 stage for just unlocking the drivers door and the second stage for unlocking all doors? I'm just at a loss here...no idea what the issue could be.

 

[cwmoser]

I had similar problem.
My remote key fob would not lock or unlock doors.
I could though lock/unlock with my key and the door lock buttons would lock/unlock.

THE FIX: Remove that ELM327 OBDII code scanner from the OBDII socket.
Now my key fob works. I had previously plugged the ELM327 in and used
my Smartphone to monitor engine sensors.

 

[marcus2001]

After reading all the posts..I don't know if it is a loose connector on ecu or loose connectors associated with the dome lights. I have a 2002 lx470 which I have only 1 master key. the problem is that the key fob doesn't work. The key unlocks and locks door manually. The fob led goes on when I push any of the buttons but the rear lights don't flash as I heard they should. All fuses both by the pedals and inside engine are good. I assume the next step is taking out the radio and checking connections. Does anyone have a video or link to instructions for this. Also, I was planning to get 1 new key and a valet key made. I hear many folks saying they got them off eBay. But several have bad keys that don't work. Can someone post which vendors gave them a good transmitter/remote key?
Thanks much

 

[Muskyfever]

I was changing some interior bulbs last night in my 04 Landcruiser and when I got done I noticed that none of my dome lights worked anymore. I figured it was a blown fuse and I was right. I didn’t have a spare so I figured I’d just pick one up tomorrow. However, I found out that my keyfob didn’t work anymore either. The doors wouldn’t lock or unlock.

Today I put in a brand new 10 amp fuse and everything worked again including the keyfob. So if anyone has a keyfob not working I’d start with the dome light fuse number 56. I hope this helps.