remote does not unlock or lock doors, but door switches do lock / unlock

[re_guderian]

ah, I can't help think that it's simpler than a corrupted ECU, since it works well in some functions. Just to clarify, the power seats, sunroof, power windows, etc. all function good? Have you checked the ECU-B1 fues in the engine compartment fuse box by the battery (20A)? That should allow 12V to the WDL ECU and the instrument ECU with the key out of the ignition. There is another path for 12V to the ECU with the key in IG/ST position. To clarify again, the armrest switch works with the key in the ignition, or without the key in the ignition?

 

[DWSD]

ah, I can't help think that it's simpler than a corrupted ECU, since it works well in some functions. Just to clarify, the power seats, sunroof, power windows, etc. all function good? Have you checked the ECU-B1 fues in the engine compartment fuse box by the battery (20A)? That should allow 12V to the WDL ECU and the instrument ECU with the key out of the ignition. There is another path for 12V to the ECU with the key in IG/ST position. To clarify again, the armrest switch works with the key in the ignition, or without the key in the ignition?

I checked all of the fuses in the engine bay - all OK. I also checked those at the driver's foot dead pedal. Those are good, too. As are the power seats, power windows, sunroof, rear quarter windows. All of the courtesy lights seem to function as they should, too.

The armrest switches work with the key on or off or removed.

I drove for a week or so with the glovebox light, glovebox switch and antenna relay unplugged for about a week, while I was fixing (replacing) the evaporator. I can't see how these are related, but maybe it is a clue.

Here's another clue (maybe): if I unlock the front doors manually and open, the alarm goes off. But, I can disable the alarm after unlocking with the remote or by putting the key in the igntion and turning on.

Thank you,

Doug

 

[lexi4darin]

Darin,
Do you know the name of the ECU for the remote key? I did look at FSM this morning and noticed the body control ECU mounted just above the stereo.

That's correct. It's above the stereo. Pretty easy to get to.

In the meantime, here's the other part I was thinking about. Not sure much about it's location but hopefully you can deduce some of this yourself.

In the pic below, I was likely thinking part #2 or #4. Part #4 doesn't include part number but you can get that with PNC numbers.

 

[lexi4darin]

I drove for a week or so with the glovebox light, glovebox switch and antenna relay unplugged for about a week, while I was fixing (replacing) the evaporator. I can't see how these are related, but maybe it is a clue.

Doug, based on this I wondered if you knocked a wire loose to one of the security ECU's. See my previous post (#10) for a pic but the ECU's I'm referring to are right next to the Controller & Junction box: PNC 89111 + PNC 89730

PNC 89730 = Security Warning Computer Assembly
PNC 89111 = Computer gateway


More food for thought.

 

[DWSD]

That's correct. It's above the stereo. Pretty easy to get to.

In the meantime, here's the other part I was thinking about. Not sure much about it's location but hopefully you can deduce some of this yourself.

In the pic below, I was likely thinking part #2 or #4. Part #4 doesn't include part number but you can get that with PNC numbers.

With the box labeled 89073, I wonder what that part is in the top left of the box? It is definitely in the proximity. Today, I checked again the connections and noted that I all were properly connected. They were very easy to come apart.

You have some great ideas to pursue.

thank you,

Doug

 

[DWSD]

Still working on this frustrating problem.

Would someone please do me a favor and do a few tests and see if their system works the same way and report back?

1. Stimuli: Open your driver's door and hit the unlock button on the remote.
Response: Two flashes of the brake lights, two flashes of the dash lights and two flashes of the front marker lights, but *no* engagement of the door locks themselves right?

2. Stimuli: How about with the door open and hit lock on the remote.
Reponse: No locking, no lights, nothing

3. Stimuli: door open, unlock via the key / tumbler on the door itself.
Response: nothing, no lights, no unlocking

4. Stimuli: door open, lock via the key / tumbler on the door itself
Response: nothing, no lights, no locking

Thank you!!

Doug

 

[re_guderian]

See below

Still working on this frustrating problem.

Would someone please do me a favor and do a few tests and see if their system works the same way and report back?

1. Stimuli: Open your driver's door and hit the unlock button on the remote.
Response: Two flashes of the brake lights, two flashes of the dash lights and two flashes of the front marker lights, but *no* engagement of the door locks themselves right?
Yes, this is what happens if the doors are all unlocked and driver's door is open.

Additionally, with the driver's door open, and if I manually set the lock by the driver's door handle to the locked position, pressing the unlock button on the remote unlocked the driver's door, even when the door was still open.

2. Stimuli: How about with the door open and hit lock on the remote.
Reponse: No locking, no lights, nothing
Yes, nothing happened, by design of the circuit.

3. Stimuli: door open, unlock via the key / tumbler on the door itself.
Response: nothing, no lights, no unlocking
Negatory, with the driver's door open, turning the key into the outside tumbler unlocked first the driver's door, then all the doors when turned again. Tested and verified.

4. Stimuli: door open, lock via the key / tumbler on the door itself
Response: nothing, no lights, no locking
Negatory, with the driver's door open, turning the key into the outside tumbler locked all the doors. Tested and verified.

Thank you!!

Doug

 

[re_guderian]

I...Here's another clue (maybe): if I unlock the front doors manually and open, the alarm goes off. But, I can disable the alarm after unlocking with the remote or by putting the key in the igntion and turning on...

Also not normal as the key unlock should disable the alarm. However, since your key in the tumbler also isn't unlocking your doors... . It's looking more and more like a body/instrument ECU issue. You could try reprogramming the remote unlock/lock feature of the fob as if you had a new key, but that's a longshot given that the remote will silence an alarm and also cause the tail/running/dash lights to flash. Instrument/Body ECU issues aren't unheard of, search on the rear wiper issues.

 

[DWSD]

Rob,
thanks a bunch. It does appear to be a logic issue with the body ECU. On some level, I'm considering it to possibly be a wire harness thing, but to have several different inputs to the body ECU fail (door tumblers and wireless remote seems very unlikely, especially since it was undisturbed when the troubles began.

I wonder if that Body ECU is carried over from other Toyota products? I'll hunt down a part # and see if I can find out.

I failed to mention, as part of my evaporator project, I wanted to make the car more user friendly for my wife. My plan was to remove the relay which controls the magnetic compressor clutch. I didn't want her to turn on the A/C while the evaporator was removed. I went to the engine relay panel and plucked out the ACC relay, initially thinking it was the AC Compressor relay. I later realized it was the accessory relay, which provides power to the Body ECU. I wonder if by removing that relay, I somehow fouled up the Body ECU. The timing seems not coincidental. The day after I removed the evaporator, antenna relay and ACC relay, my troubles began with the lock / unlock feature.

Thank you for taking the time to assist with my problem!

Doug

 

[DWSD]

Also not normal as the key unlock should disable the alarm. However, since your key in the tumbler also isn't unlocking your doors... . It's looking more and more like a body/instrument ECU issue. You could try reprogramming the remote unlock/lock feature of the fob as if you had a new key, but that's a longshot given that the remote will silence an alarm and also cause the tail/running/dash lights to flash. Instrument/Body ECU issues aren't unheard of, search on the rear wiper issues.

Rob,
I have tried to reprogram the key. I only have one remote key and one valet key. You need a "master key" to program. Both keys are identified by the ECU as authorized keys as each extinguish the red security light adjacent to the clock. According to FSM, the keys are programmed / authorized if the red security light goes out.

Please see my comments above - I wonder if removing the ACC relay triggered an issue that caused the body ECU to fail?

I'm going to focus on that part for replacement.

Thank you!

Doug

 

[lexi4darin]

Doug, update this post when you are done. I've got similar issues that have all led me down the path of realizing it's likely the control and junction ECU for the body. At several hundred dollars I'm not interested in trying to replace it just yet. But seeing your results could help give me info
or faith.
dp

 

[DWSD]

Can anyone confirm that the Body ECU is also called controller and junction, part #: 82791-60040

Looks correct from Darin's picture above, but the part # is not obvious.

Thank you,

doug

 

[re_guderian]

Cdan or Beno could confirm. Pay attention to the mfg date as well. Better safe than sorry on a special order/no return part.

btw, toyotapartszone.com took down all their diagrams this week. Looks like www.toyotapartseast still has them in a similar layout.

 

[DWSD]

As a follow up, this is now resolved after changing the instrument / body ECU. But, theres more to the story. I disconnected the battery, removed the radio and removed the old unit. From there I sprayed the connectors on both harness and ECU with deoxit, a chemical for cleaning electrical connections. From there I installed the new ECU.
To my surprise unlock on the door tumblers and remote was now working. But no lock / alarm arm feature. I plugged the old unit back in and the unlock feature was not working. So..... At least some progress.

Today, I'm happy to report all of the remote and door lock features have been restored. Frankly I can't say why they worked today and not yesterday. I'm guessing maybe the contact cleaner continued to work?

It is my hope that the repair works tomorrow.

So that's the definitive, for now, windup. . I'm happy for now.

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

[re_guderian]

Woohoo! What'd the ECU set you back?

Typos sent from my HTC EVO using the IH8MUD app...

 

[DWSD]

Rob,
I got it from Cruiser Parts for $137 shipped. $115 plus $22 which included shipping, handling and fuel surcharge.

thanks again!

Doug

 

[lexi4darin]

DWSD - glad this fixed this issue for you. It is as I suspected and unforutnately, I've had a hard time finding that ECU for the 2000 LX470 used and the retail costs are around $400-500.

 

[DWSD]

DWSD - glad this fixed this issue for you. It is as I suspected and unforutnately, I've had a hard time finding that ECU for the 2000 LX470 used and the retail costs are around $400-500.

Darin,
Do you want to try my old one? Have you tried removing and cleaning the contacts? I wouldn't be surprised if this is part / all of the problem. Mine looked perfect, but again, the new ECU didn't immediately work. Not sure why all the functionality is now restored.

Are they interchangeable between Toyota and Lexus?
Did you call Cruiser Parts?

Doug

 

[lexi4darin]

Doug, they're not interchangeable but I'd be interested in seeing if the Toyota ECU changes/improves my situation. Come to think of it, if you're interested in donating your ECU to the cause, you and I can spend the time switching the part and then maybe coming up with some elaborate right ups for future users who might experience this problem.

 

[3D FJ]

This may be of use to someone given the title of this thread. I didn't see this mentioned above, unless i missed it, so i figured i'd post this. sorry if it's a repost.

The other night, I went to remove third row led light panel from the dome light to try in my friend's scion. While trying to re-install it into my truck, i had to try and use a pair of needle nose pliers to get the tab correct. (the led panel contacts are a bit big). while using the pliers, i touched a contact from the dome light with the metal roof panel above. Didn't realize until i got home when all of a sudden, the remote lock button wouldn't work. Tried my other remote and no go either. I started getting worried. Looked it up in the FSM. Apparently, the dome light fuse is connected with the wireless door lock controller. Changed out the 10A fuse by the passenger side kick panel, and everything is back to normal. This is on an 03 LX.