remote does not unlock or lock doors, but door switches do lock / unlock (1 Viewer)

[DWSD]

Strangest thing, I was recently working on an A/C evaporator replacement, which turned out great. (I did not remove the dash and used a shortcut though that info is for another thread)

In that project, I disconnected the glovebox light, glovebox light switch and the Antenna relay (for the radio antenna), but messed with no other electronics.

Anyhow, my key remote no longer unlocks or locks the doors. I see the front market lights flash, a light flashes adjacent to the radio - including the security light, but the door locks will not operate.

The door locks *do* work when using either of the lock switches at the passenger and driver doors.

The light on the FOB lights up red and seems to activate the security lights reliably, even from a decent distance.

In troubleshooting, I've checked each door switch, which turns on the courtesy light properly.

This acts like the key receiver is not telling the doors to unlock. But it flashes the light by the radio when I either lock or unlock.

Anyone seen this one before?

Thank you,

Doug

 

[DWSD]

NO ONE HAS ANY CLUES??

BTW - the internal door lock switches on the armrests work great and lock / unlock the whole car. The door lock tumblers outside the car do not operate the locks. The remote lock / unlock feature and outside door switch locks failed at the same time.

Is there something that operates the remote and the door lock switches? Does the ECU have all of the logic programming?

Doug

 

[Gottagetone]

Its my understanding that the ECU handles all the programming for the lock and unlock. Are you sure you got everything plugged back in completely and correctly?

 

[re_guderian]

I've (obviously) never had this issue, but browsing through the EWD, there is an instrument ECU and a wiresless door lock ECU (at least for my 2000 - assuming your '99 is similar). There are wires that go directly from the WDL ECU to the tail lights, so if when you press a fob key and the lights flash, your WDL ECU is connected and receiving signal. There is likely a problem with the connection between the WDL ECU and the Instrument ECU (which controls most of the door lock logic). My manual shows the WDL ECU under the steering wheel whereas the instrument ECU is behind the stereo. Manual also states that the wireless system won't work if it detects any door as being open -but it sounds like you've checked that. Did you check tailgate too?

 

[DWSD]

Its my understanding that the ECU handles all the programming for the lock and unlock. Are you sure you got everything plugged back in completely and correctly?

I will check again. The ECU itself remained plugged in the entire time.

thank you,

Doug

 

[DWSD]

Did you check tailgate too?

. Yes I did check the tailgate. The door light (overhead) extinguishes when I close the upper tailgate door.

I'm stumped.

Thanks for thinking about this.

Maybe I need to try a different ECU?

Doug

 

[re_guderian]

Before throwing money at an ECU (like lots of money), try checking your PWR fuse in the fuse panel by the driver's side foot rest. This controls the power lock relays (but not the instrument and WDL ECU's), moon roof, power seats, power windows and the wireless door lock. Do all these functions work? If so, then check wire harness connections between the WDL ECU and the Instrument ECU. It would be easier to troubleshoot too if you had access to a 1999 Electrical Wiring Diagram, as it shows all the locations of the various components, and describes the circuit functionality.

 

[DWSD]

Before throwing money at an ECU (like lots of money), try checking your PWR fuse in the fuse panel by the driver's side foot rest. This controls the power lock relays (but not the instrument and WDL ECU's), moon roof, power seats, power windows and the wireless door lock. Do all these functions work? If so, then check wire harness connections between the WDL ECU and the Instrument ECU. It would be easier to troubleshoot too if you had access to a 1999 Electrical Wiring Diagram, as it shows all the locations of the various components, and describes the circuit functionality.

Rob,
I did check all of those fuses, but will look again. I did not check the contacts to which you refer, so I'll hunt those down, too.

This whole thing happened when I pulled the evaporator out of behind the glovebox, so I have to think it might not be coincidence.

I think I have the wiring diagram with the FSM. What I was thinking is if I could find another owner around here, I could swap parts just to check without buying them. Maybe a longshot, but I'd let someone if the situation were reversed.

thank you so much,

Doug

 

[2000UZJ]

I had this issue last year. I was playing around with my key and it lost its functionality. I got tired and pissed off and sat in the car with the key in "ACC" while listening to music and playing a game in my car sitting in the parking lot. I got out and the key started working. Try sitting in the car with the key in the ignition and see if it "resets" it.

Sent from my iPad 2 3G using IH8MUD

 

[lexi4darin]

Its my understanding that the ECU handles all the programming for the lock and unlock. Are you sure you got everything plugged back in completely and correctly?

There is an ECU that controls all the locking features which is called "Controller & Junction ECU" by Toyota/Lexus. In the industry it's known by other names: Body Control Module, Body ECU, Control ECU. I posted a pick of the part you may want to get tested. There is also a lil ECU for the remote lock/unlock feature (I think it's a receiver and then rebroadcasts the signal to the Controller & Junction) but you can look this up on your own at ToyotaPartsZone or other references.

 

[lexi4darin]

Doug,

Maybe try reprogramming the key. There's a reprogramming sequence that you can follow in the FAQ here at Mud. When you put your key in the ignition, you should notice a red light on your upper console (near the digi clock) that is in the shape of a key. I think it says security or something too. Check to see if your are getting this light to blink properly when you insert the key. If there's any discrepancy or doubt, try reprogramming your key to car computers with the sequence outlined in the FAQ.

 

[DWSD]

Darin,
Do you know the name of the ECU for the remote key? I did look at FSM this morning and noticed the body control ECU mounted just above the stereo.

thank you,

Doug

 

[DWSD]

Doug,

Maybe try reprogramming the key. There's a reprogramming sequence that you can follow in the FAQ here at Mud. When you put your key in the ignition, you should notice a red light on your upper console (near the digi clock) that is in the shape of a key. I think it says security or something too. Check to see if your are getting this light to blink properly when you insert the key. If there's any discrepancy or doubt, try reprogramming your key to car computers with the sequence outlined in the FAQ.

Darin,
That is a good idea and i was just reading that procedure this morning in the FSM. Only thing I have two keys, one valet and the one I use all the time with the remote. The procedure calls to use the master key and then insert the second key to be linked as a master key. Do you think I can use the valet key as the master? If not, I've only got the one.

I think I'll try with the valet key as master and see what happens.

Doug

 

[DWSD]

I just tried the reprogramming procedure. It didn't work. It seems to recognize both of my keys (one with remote, one valet) as master keys already.

Doug

 

[re_guderian]

PM me with your e-mail, and I'll send you the relevant scans from the factory electrical wiring diagram.

With the symptoms you've described, with the interior armrest switches working OK, but neither the key-in-door nor the remote functioning, you've either got a faulty door courtesy switch whereby the instrument ECU thinks that there is a door open, or a single wire either in a connection or a ground is fubar'd (or somehow corrupted logic in the ECU?). Both the armrest switches and the key in door switches use wires that are in the same connector to the instrument ECU. For one to work, and one not more than likely indicates (to me anyway) something amiss in it detecting all doors as being closed. Same goes for the wireless remote, as it is flashing the tail lights, correct?

Anyway, the pdf file I scanned is 17 pages, ~13 MB, too big to post here.

 

[DWSD]

PM me with your e-mail, and I'll send you the relevant scans from the factory electrical wiring diagram.

With the symptoms you've described, with the interior armrest switches working OK, but neither the key-in-door nor the remote functioning, you've either got a faulty door courtesy switch whereby the instrument ECU thinks that there is a door open, or a single wire either in a connection or a ground is fubar'd (or somehow corrupted logic in the ECU?). Both the armrest switches and the key in door switches use wires that are in the same connector to the instrument ECU. For one to work, and one not more than likely indicates (to me anyway) something amiss in it detecting all doors as being closed. Same goes for the wireless remote, as it is flashing the tail lights, correct?

Anyway, the pdf file I scanned is 17 pages, ~13 MB, too big to post here.

Rob,
The thing is really strange. I'll PM you. You summarized it, but the overhead courtesy light goes on and off properly when I test open and close each door individually (including tailgate).

I don't understand why the outer door switches (tumblers) don't lock / unlock and the armrest ones do. Both external switches went out when this problem began.

Also, when I hit the unlock button on the key, I get a little blink from the security light, dash panel lights and radio area lights. It is receiving my signal from the remote. I view it as a logic problem, maybe in the body ECU of some sort?

If this was end of 1999, I'd chalk it up to a year 2k issue!

Thanks to all for your assistance!

Doug

 

[DWSD]

BTW - all four doors plus tailgate individually turn on the red "door open" indicator on the dash. The indicator goes out when each door is shut. In other words, as it should.

The response to the remote key does act like it does when a door is open (it will not lock or unlock) when you push the buttons, but no door are open and the dash indicator is in agreement (OFF).

I even tried disconnecting the battery for an hour and re-hooking that up. I only lost my presets and mileage since the last oil change. No change.

I'm kind of leaning towards a failed body logic ECU. Though I would have assumed it would fail differently than this.

Finally, I double checked my connections behind the glovebox door, which were removed with the evaporator. All is in order. Originally, I had thought the antenna relay was somehow tied to the remote control for the door locks and when I plugged it back in, the door locks would again work. Wishful thinking....

Doug

 

[DWSD]

Same goes for the wireless remote, as it is flashing the tail lights, correct?

Rob,
the unlock function on the remote flashes the taillights, too. It does not unlock, however.

The lock function doesn't seem to work.

anyone have an extra body logic controller they can sell or send me for testing? I wonder if the controller is unique to Land Cruiser? Suspect other Toyota products have the same part.

thank you,

Doug

 

[2000UZJ]

Did you leave the key in the ignition for a while? Worked for me and it might be a easy fi for these types of issues

Sent from my iPad 2 3G using IH8MUD

 

[DWSD]

Did you leave the key in the ignition for a while? Worked for me and it might be a easy fi for these types of issues

Sent from my iPad 2 3G using IH8MUD

I did, on accessory for an hour. No dice for me.

Shall I try the "on" position for a while. Then again, I've driven it eight hours since the failure. Don't see how that'd be different than driving it.

thank you,

Doug