- Thread starter
- #21
Ok, yes, hence R12 is more expensive. I am not sure about converting to R134a, could be quite involved depending on research. Real new to this kind of stuff.
Related issues surrounding AC compressor…
- Thread starter duece71
- Start date
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I don't know about fitment, though I suspect the R134a parts would bolt right in. I do know, for my 96, I just ordered a new compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valve and evaporator: basically everything but the lines. I went denso on the compressor and expansion valve (went OEM for the sensitive parts), for the rest I let reviews and availability guide me. I've got under $500 into it through RockAuto. Something to consider.
This is why I posted a link to the Toyota TSB for converting to r134a. The entire procedure with parts list is in that TSB. It’s a 1 banana job, just a little time consuming.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
If you haven't already, remove the AC belt before you continue to drive it
The " lube" you picture, is it rubber off a slipping AC belt?
Not sure you'd get that sort of material in that quantity from a slipping magnetic clutch with just 20 minutes driving
The " lube" you picture, is it rubber off a slipping AC belt?
Not sure you'd get that sort of material in that quantity from a slipping magnetic clutch with just 20 minutes driving
- Thread starter
- #25
Yes, it’s done, belt has been removed and the idler pulley resecured without the belt. Replaced the burnt fuse and fired up, all gauges and windows work, blower fan works so at least air is moving. The “lube” isn’t lube, it’s some sort of plastic material that melted and is associated with the magnetic clutch. It solidified and I was able to scrape it off.
- Thread starter
- #26
This sounds great. From research, just filling the system with R134a isn’t going to work. R12 must be evacuated and things like seals must be changed. There is also something about coolant and oil compatibility (?) that could create a bad substance that leads to eventual failure of the system. I am looking into all of the parts now. Should I get the compressor tested to see if it’s still operational? If so, the magnetic clutch rebuild would be cheaper and simpler. Unless I know for sure on the compressor, no point in rebuilding the mag clutch.
- Thread starter
- #27
The belt looks fine, just used.
- Thread starter
- #28
Looking over the TSB from baldilocks, the retro fit set is available…$88 from Toyota parts deal. However, there are 2 different part numbers for the “tank-receiver (dryer) with a cost difference of about $40. Looking around (partsouq, TPD) it seems as though the dryer is the same but 2 options. Cheaper of the 2 seems the way to go. Any differences to be aware of or am I thinking too much about this? Rock Auto has the compressor (10PA17C) for $158 from GPD.
Receiver/dryer 88471-50020 is advertised to fit 93-97 on online oem parts sites.
- Thread starter
- #30
1990 HDJ81.
Are you sure that it doesn't already have r134a in it? last time I came across a car that still had r12 in it was about 2008 but maybe r12 is easier to get in japan before it was brought over. You probably already read about this but a system designed for r12 wont work as good with r134a. You could replace everything to the r134a version if the best AC performance is important to you. Is your blower fan is working again after you replaced the fuse? let me know if you want to bring it by for a charge after you get the new compressor in.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I'm pretty sure all Aussie delivered 80s came with r134 due to laws around ozone deleting gases.
Cross referencing parts numbers would tell you if there's differences in components.
All my cruisers AC worked plenty good with r134. If r12 is better, you'd get frostbite
I was concerned about system performance when I did the switch to R134a in a 1993 fzj several years ago. If there was a difference I didn’t notice it.
Blown AC clutch...it happened to mine after noticing smell from cabin...
BTW. As much as I hate Chinese crap, they were able to land on the dark side of the Moon and we couldn't.......They are catching up quick..
BTW. As much as I hate Chinese crap, they were able to land on the dark side of the Moon and we couldn't.......They are catching up quick..
- Thread starter
- #35
The dryer is up higher next to the radiator. That might be an indication. All of the AC shops close to me won’t touch R12 except for 1 and that’s a big maybe as the dude I spoke with hasn’t seen my truck. 1990 was the 1st year for the 80 series in Japan.
- Thread starter
- #36
It sure looks like it but I am not sure if the compressor is also seized as well. The pulley on the front of the compressor is now frozen in place and will not turn at all. That could be because of the hardened black goo that discharged. I have NO history at all on the compressor itself and have to reckon it is original vintage.
- Thread starter
- #37
I think the transition to R134a will happen at this point. The 1st step in anything is to find a place to evacuate the R12 out of the system. The drain and fill plugs have black or blue and light blue caps on them instead of blue and red.
If it came with r134a then it has all the parts that are designed to work with r134a and r12 would probably be worse in that system. A system designed from the ground up for r12 does not work as good with r134a. in the US 91-92 had r12 and 134 didn't come until 93. The condenser for r12 is smaller then the one for r134a.
Take a pic of the fittings. You might have an adapter screwed on there already. I don't recover R12 either but i can help with vacuum/charging/converting. What trail were you going to?I think the transition to R134a will happen at this point. The 1st step in anything is to find a place to evacuate the R12 out of the system. The drain and fill plugs have black or blue and light blue caps on them instead of blue and red.
You have two choices; pop a line and release it where it stands or take it to a shop.
