Regear Options on a Budget? (1 Viewer)

[The Machinist]

My 60 is my daily driver, and although the "rubber overdrive" from my 33s is nice on the highway it can get annoying in traffic. My commute is mostly city driving and expressways, and the highway time I do have is half spent in parking-lot speed traffic, and half spent cruising at speed on my way to and from class.

When I go up to the mountains my truck feels useless on the mountain passes. I've had times where trains of cars were piled up behind me on some super steep 2 lane grades with no pullouts; its not a good feeling.
I also wouldn't mind a slightly slower low gear.

Gearing keeps moving up the list for my truck, I'd like to do it before adding any more weight from bumpers, rack etc. I won a raffle at 4wheelparts for a winch this weekend, so now im starting to look at bumpers.....

After reading through several threads I think the best option right now would be either 4.10 or 4.11 gears, but what I'm still not sure about is what route to go to get them. Should I buy them new and have someone set them up for me ($$$?), or is there a cheaper route? Are the stock gears from a 62 commonly swapped into 60's? Would it be possible/a good idea to try to use the thirds from an 80 series with an E-Locker?

 

[KWalkerM]

buy a set of smaller tires for commuting like 27s and then put on the ATs for trips. that's what im doing right now to get a little more economy out of my truck.


(or swap in a chevy engine I got to 80 mph Saturday morning it was scary as hell with no doors)

 

[The Machinist]

I'd rather do the gears, I'm going to need to do them anyway, and I'd like the slower 4-low. Besides, 27's would look ridiculous with my lift!

Ive done an indicated 85 mph on I-5 before, so where that puts me with the 33's and stock gears... I'll test it out with my new Garmin on Thursday when im on my way to Gold Lake.

 

[RockDoc]

62 diffs are done fairly commonly to get 4.11s. The 80 REAR elocker will work in the front of a 60 with a non-stock long side shaft (longer splines at the diff end), but requires a full float rear axle to go in the rear.

 

[90FJ]

X2, all FJ62s got 4:11s. You should be able to pick up some geared thirds for $400 or so.

I have a set I'll sell you but the rear is welded.

 

[mattafact]

x3 of FJ62 diffs. If you can, get 2 fronts so they will have almost no miles on them.

 

[KWalkerM]

quick question on the 62 diffs, since the rear is semi float in a 60, how much do you have to change when dropping in the 62 diff? do S-F axles just clip in like normal to a FF diff? 90FJ, I might be interested in those parts down the road if Darrel isn't.

 

[90FJ]

Yeah no problem, I'm in Portland, OR so shipping or Mudship might be an option. I'm thinking $300 plus shipping?

The rear is welded very well, low mile rig (165k) wasnt wheeled much until my one Rubicon trip but you know it'll hold up.

I'm going to weld my new 4:88s I got to run 37s, street manners are fine and you don't notice it much until you make tight turns.

 

[KWalkerM]

Yeah no problem, I'm in Portland, OR so shipping or Mudship might be an option. I'm thinking $300 plus shipping?

The rear is welded very well, low mile rig (165k) wasnt wheeled much until my one Rubicon trip but you know it'll hold up.

I'm going to weld my new 4:88s I got to run 37s, street manners are fine and you don't notice it much until you make tight turns.

sounds good, right now im low on my cruiser fund since I just swapped motors. so how much chirping do you get from it and wear on tires? also are you just getting rid of the one diff or front too? and is the front diff welded?

 

[90FJ]

Front is open, selling them both. Little chirping, but after hating my old ez-locker lunchbox welded rear is awesome. Might not be for everyone if its a daily driver, do some reading pirate4x4 has a bunch of threads on it, let me know.

Sorry for the hi-jack.

 

[The Machinist]

If they were both open I'd be all over them, but after driving a friends car with a welded diff last year, it's not for me. (or at least this truck)

Thanks for the offer though!

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

I would agree that buying used 3rds is the most economical solution but......

You might ask to see if anyone is running AA's 4:1 transfer case gear set. It has a 10% under drive which should give you a lower ratio that the 4:11s.

If you can install the gears yourself (or find a fellow cruiser head to help) it would probably would cost about the same as having new gears set up.

Of course you would have to put up with that pesky 4:1 low

 

[T-bones 60]

The 4:1 gear set would be a good call. But you have to do some grinding on the T case to get the low gear to fit inside of it. Then of course if your going to take apart the split case you may as well replace all the bearings. By the time your all done you would be looking at around $1800 and that is doing the labor yourself. I have the Marks 3:1 gear set with an 8% under drive in high. After doing the math with the 8%, it comes out to be the same as having 4.0 diff gears if there were such a thing.