Refrurbishing the old 76

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Yeah you've got 532 yellow (so is my '76 FJ40), I manage an automotive paint supplier, I've got original color books back to the 60's. (NAPA/Martin-Senour formula #22325 for the mustard, code 012 or T12 is Cygnus White w/ NAPA/MS# 21606 for the top and bezel if you go white).

You can use SEM brand Pro-Tex or Rock-It tintable bedliner and go inside the tub and/or underbody if you want, it tints to the 532 yellow quite nicely. SEM's Rust Shield black paint 28101 is a nice chassis option too. Great corrosion protection and a little less than POR15 paint.
 
That's great to know Pyro. I'll keep an eye out for those. Thanks for the info. Where are you located? Got any pics of your rig? I was actually looking into the pro-Tex Bedliner for the floors. Do you have that in your rig?
 
Agree on no bedliner-that stuff is for the back of a truck you throw toolboxes on-surface holds dirt-etc-etc.
If that 40 was in the Midwest it would be virtually Rust-Free!
 
My rig is still a work in progress, and unfortunately my old PC crashed and took the pics with it.

But anyways, no bedliner in it yet (got the liner, primer, paint and other supplies stashed in the garage currently), actually getting ready to do a frame off, and possibly convert to a 3FE head if I can find the parts.

I've got an old 2.2 tip pressure-fed HVLP spray gun I'm going to shoot the bedliner out of; this should give me much more control over the thickness and texture of the liner (keeping it from looking like a truck bed!)

So if you do go with a liner, get the tintable and don't paint over the black. Any chips or dings and you'll see the exposed black underneath. You may have adhesion problems with the paint over liner too depending on the 'open window' of the liner. The SEM Pro-Tex is bit more expensive, but is awesome stuff and it's a 6 quart kit compared to many other companies that offer a 4 quart kit.
 
That's great to hear. Thanks for the advice. Looking forward to some pics of your rig. Headed over to the shop to put in some work.
 
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Its been some time since I've updated this thread. I've made some progress in the last few months. The process has been a little slower than I wanted but I cant complain. I haven't been able to take much time off work so the body work has been a bit slow. I'm really happy with how it is turning out though. Here are some updated photos.
 
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The Ambulance doors have been mocked up. Im pretty happy with how they look. I'm welding a support on the inside of the top to support the stress and weight of the doors at the top hinge.
 
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I was a little worried about the condition of the front bib. I almost bought a new one because mine looked like they used it as a ram. However, it didn't have any rust so I decided to keep it. . Luckily, after a nice beating, it straightened out nicely. Slapped it back on temporarily so it holds up the hood.
 
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The interior is being sanded down this week. The floor boards are in decent shape. I considered spraying a liner in it but have since decided to simply paint it and try to purchase an OEM floor mat. Not 100% on that.... might change my mind.
 
I'm anxious to get this thing home. I have a garage full of parts sorted throughout my garage, lonely, waiting to be used. I came across a pair of beat up stock seats. I had them re-upholstered. Excited to take them on the first ride. Here are some before and afters...
 
Thanks Chris. I cant wait to install that gauge cluster and glove box door I bought from you last year... Along with all the other junk I've picked up from you! LOL.
 
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The PO had installed a bunch of chrome parts that ended up pitted and rusty. I came up on some new running boards, a bezel and vents. I started to sand some of this stuff down, but I've decided to get it blasted instead. I got a little tired... LOL.
 
Question... My roll bar is wrapped with some stuff I havent really seen in any of your rigs. it's some kind of laced up padding. Do you guys think I should keep this stuff or should I go with the roll bar pads? Here's a picture.
 

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