refresh my memory - front rotor replacement

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I've got some spanking new rotorss for my '94 and some 100 series pads to go with it....I did the front axle/birf job myself but its been awhile....To replace the rotors I need to remove the big nut and wang on the cone washers and remove the outer portion of hub right? Ar ethe fixings/hardware all reuseable? It appears so after a quick glance at the FSM....I've got the big socket and will scrounge around for a my fish scale and brass drifts....What am I forgetting?

I'm likely going to do the same treatment to a friends '94....I';m not sure if he's ever done any front axle work but it seems like if you're doing a full birf job...that that would be a good time to replace the rotors...

:beer:

Rob M
 

tucker74

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Yep - just like a birf job except you stop at the spindle ... you'll need some new seals for the rear of the hub. Don't forget to re-pack the bearings -

:cheers:

Tucker
 
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What are you using the fish scale for? I did my rotors not to long ago and don't remember using a fish scale on anything but I more than likely forgot to do something.

Also do you know what to do for a noisy front driver side brake?
 

tucker74

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97CrusherTx said:
What are you using the fish scale for? I did my rotors not to long ago and don't remember using a fish scale on anything but I more than likely forgot to do something.
To set the pre-load on the bearings ...

Also do you know what to do for a noisy front driver side brake?
It's either the squealers, wheel bearings, or spindles ... hopefully the first. This is assuming you re-used the shims and some stop-squeak.

Tucker
 

stayalert

 
 
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Thanks!

I'll peruse my FSM more closely but I vaguely rememeber something about the pre-load on the wheel bearings being set with the fish scale?
 
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I just did it this weekend, From memory, take the inner nut on the hub and tighten to 43Ft LBs, and then back it off to hand tight. Put in the locking washer and then the second nut and tighten to 47FT LBs. Test the rotational torque with fishscale to see how much torque it takes to turn the rotor. It should be between 6 and 12 Ft LBs to initiate the rotation. Adjust as necessary and lock the washer when the torque is correct
 

tucker74

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JerryLX450 said:
Okay I have question for you- Tucker74, What will happen if you dont use fish scale to set pre-load on the bearings?

Thank you
Well - if you didn't pull the bearings and re-pack them you're probably ok ... the "fish scale" method is primarily to set the bearings. Don't know how you figured the torque on the spindle nut however ... if it's loose you could get bearing play. The lock should keep it on :eek:

Do some searching on birf jobs and the fish scale ... I'd go back in and set your pre-load to be safe -

Tucker
 

Junk

 
 
 
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JerryLX450 said:
Okay I have question for you- Tucker74, What will happen if you dont use fish scale to set pre-load on the bearings?

Thank you
There appears to be a contingent, possibly the same contingent that is overly concerned about getting a great deal on leatherique, that believe a fish scale is mandatory for working on the 80. The rest of us know it isn't so :D
 

stayalert

 
 
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Junk said:
There appears to be a contingent, possibly the same contingent that is overly concerned about getting a great deal on leatherique, that believe a fish scale is mandatory for working on the 80. The rest of us know it isn't so :D
LOL if you saw my drivers seat you would gasp. WAY beyond anything leather-enrique can do for it...I have a fish scale in a drwaer somewhere and will use it if I can find it.......
 
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