Redneck fixes (1 Viewer)

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This a GREAT thread -- Keep 'em comin' !!

Sorry, no redneck fixes here.... I'm voting Obama ;):rolleyes: ;)
 
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Starting Fluid (ether) for setting beads is an awesome one... Heres the trick to that one: Make sure you spray a ton inside the tire, create a little trail onto the side of the tire, make a small pile of eather on the side of the tire. Light the pile and then kick the tire. The kicking part is the whole key. It will work sometimes without kicking. but im batting 1000 when I've kicked it.

Also, when breaking beads, put the tire under your bumper (front or rear) and set a hi-lift on the tire and under the bumper. Once you start jacking the vehicle up, the bead will break.

Back to welding with car batteries. We always carry 10ish 7018 rods in the rig in case we have to do this. I have used coat hanger once, and it worked but the weld didn't have much strength as there was no flux to prevent oxidization during the cooling process. On one occasion, one of my buddies link mounts broke off his front Dana 60. Two pair of aviators and we were ready to go...

Its been my experince that two fully charged Optimas do the trick. I you have cheap Wal-Mart batteries, you're going to need three. Connect in series with heavy duty jupmer cables. Connect the NEG end as ground and the positive end as your stinger.

In fact, this is exactly how my two buddies and I pulled off this prank our senior year of college. This dumb statue stands in front of the engineering building and we decided it needed to be masculined a little.
Spirit of Enginuity.jpg
 
yup...a bike brake cable and electrical connector...used it for over a year. The new cable came about a week later, I just never got around to replacing it...:hillbilly:

hahaha! My truck was stolen before I could replace it...2 years later
 
Man, that really is throwing a "bone" in the works!
 
Broke the shifter linkage in a 1965 VW bus @ an antique steam power show a looooooong time ago.


Went back in to the show, bought a few hose clamps and scored some bailing wire and wrapped the coupling with both.

We got home just fine and the fix was so good, he was able to motor all the way from BFE,IN to Virginia City,NV.

Sometimes the farmers fix does the trick.
 
Thought of another one: This one is dangerous but it works about 25% of the time. If you have a car battery that has set for a while and won't take a charge. Get a stick welder, connect the ground clamp to the negative pole and then hit the positive pole with your favorite welding rod with about 140 AMPS dialed into the welder. It will make a big spark and it will magically take a charge after that. I take no responsibilty for anyone who tries this and gets hurt.

Similarly, you can jump-start a car off a welder too. If you're battery is dead and there is no one around to jump you but you have a stick welder (I know, not a very reasonable scenario, but work with me here), have someone turn the key to the start position and hit the battery with the welding rod. It will start right up. This trick works 100% of the time but is just as dangerous as the last trick.
 
We tried the coat hanger welding during Moab this year on Mark Algazy's FJ45...didn't hold up :frown:

We had three batteries, a coat hanger, and it took us a while but we finally figured out the correct polarity, but as soon as it set on the ground the axle housing cracked apart again.

So you might want to practice before you rely on it :hillbilly: Having real welding rod with you would def. make a difference.
 
redneck fix

1. (HDJ80)
Flushed a totally glogged diesel fuel filter with Coca Cola.
Worked perfectly!

2. (BJ73)
3B Diesel got hot and the alternator did not work anymore.
Sheared the half round pin between crankshaft and poullie.

Removed radiator etc...
Could not remove central bold in crankshaft. Way to tight for some reason.
Placed tooling against my chassis, crossed my fingers and started.
Worked perfectly!
Than I discovered the sheared pin after removing the poullie assy.
Removed a M10 bold from the body (I could miss that one... I think...)
I always carry some basic tooling, including a smal file, pliers and a metal saw.
I removed the head of the M10 Bold after I had sawed the head in the midddle.
Almost one hour of filing later I had a "new" pin. Is it called a cotter pin by the way?
Some oil from the dipstick and my T-shirt to clean the crankshaft.
(Of course all kinds of dirt fell onto the naked crankshaft)

Took me a few hours, but I got home.
Drove with this pin a few months due to lack of time.


3. Does driving without steering assist count?
Did that, but not really a fix...
Just removed the belt.


4. Used some of the hardware (L-shaped peace of metal) from my "custom" drawer system to permanently lock the viscous coupling. Of course in the midle of the night.
Used a hammer and an old screwdriver to make the hole size somewhat bigger.

5. "Repared" my rear lights by running a speaker wire directly from the battery towards the rear lights.
Again of course in the middle of the night...
Did use a 15 Amp fuse.
Big corrosion problems in the electrical system caused that one.

6. Used a cow drinking system to clean and fill my radiator.

7. I do not want to go into detail with this one... but it involved a big tree, a seriously bended bumper and fender, a sling, a hi-lift and as much speed I could generate with my old diesel in the 6 meters of sling length.

Succes to you all!

Repelsteel
 
Broke a throttle cable on my 40 w/350, used one of my shoe strings, ran it from the linkage on the carb, through the firewall and through one of the holes in the dash and pulled it with my hand so i could keep it in a straight line and not get hung up on anything or burn in half. took all 3 of my hands to shift, steer and give gas at the same time.

same truck, blew clutch slave at a stoplight, already had a bad starter solenoid. Put it in 1st gear, switch to run, opened hood, waited for a green light, jumped soenoid with a screwdriver, chased truck through intersection, jumped in through the back, under the roll bar back in the drivers seat...hammer down

clogged fuel filter, replaced with ink pen

broke a spring shackle, stuck a 2x4 between the frame and spring and wrapped it with a ton of duct tape

starter solenoid went bad, used the wiring to the horn, and a constant 12 volt wire, constant 12v and one horn wire on one side of the solenoid, the other horn wire on the other side of the solenoid. Turn the key to run, hit the horn and it starts. Not on a cruiser but on a farm truck, kinda liked it so I never fixed it
 
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same truck, blew clutch slave at a stoplight, already had a bad starter solenoid. Put it in 1st gear, switch to run, opened hood, waited for a green light, jumped soenoid with a screwdriver, chased truck through intersection, jumped in through the back, under the roll bar back in the drivers seat...hammer down

Wish I could have seen that.....

I just a couple weeks ago drove an fj 60 from Denver to The Black hills of SD with jumper cables in place of the negative battery cable. Small potatos I see.

John
 
same truck, blew clutch slave at a stoplight, already had a bad starter solenoid. Put it in 1st gear, switch to run, opened hood, waited for a green light, jumped soenoid with a screwdriver, chased truck through intersection, jumped in through the back, under the roll bar back in the drivers seat...hammer down

Wish I could have seen that.....

I just a couple weeks ago drove an fj 60 from Denver to The Black hills of SD with jumper cables in place of the negative battery cable. Small potatos I see.

John

Story of my life, here's a link to my trip from CA to VA
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/219876-ca-va-my-1st-60-a.html
 
same truck, blew clutch slave at a stoplight, already had a bad starter solenoid. Put it in 1st gear, switch to run, opened hood, waited for a green light, jumped soenoid with a screwdriver, chased truck through intersection, jumped in through the back, under the roll bar back in the drivers seat...hammer down

Must have looked a bit like the man in "The Gods Must Be Crazy" trying to get the Antichrist through the gate LOL.
On topic, I shifted my old Bronco with a screwdriver for two years after the column shifter broke off. :hillbilly: I thought it was a great anti-theft device, not that anyone would have stolen that old rustbucket anyway.
 
soap

i just remember this one,the rig that were driving hit a large debris on the road and hit the gas tank.not knowing we are leaking fuel somebody on the road is pointing down below,the gas tank sprung a leak from the debris.we are losing valuable fuel and one old timer that was w/ us ask if we have a bar of soap.it happens that we are going camping so we did have soap.he went underneath and literally push the soap against the crack of the gas tank until the leak stoped.we made it back after a long weekend up in the mountains.




p.s can somebody explain why the soap did not melt from the gas?just curious.:doh:
 
The exhaust-pipe on a Volvo i owned broke in half.. Fixed it with a brake-fluid can and hose clips.. used it like that for a year.

Rear ended another car with another Volvo.. with hardly any brakes.. smashed the radiator and the headlights.. Fixed the radiator by bending and flattening the pipes.. and taped some plastic on the lights.... used it like that for 6 months..

My friend's Ford mondeo got hit in the side..The front wing and the door took a beating,, The area where the lower door-hinge is bolted to the chassi was bendt in about 6 cm..
It was to rigid to bend back out, so we got a new door. Then we "floated" the hinges and welded a bracket to the car...And bashed the fender back to shape (aprx) Looks ok.. But really it isn't:hmm:

As for cruisers... My HJ60 came with painted duct-tape over all the huge rustholes...:doh:
 
6. Used a cow drinking system to clean and fill my radiator.

7. I do not want to go into detail with this one... but it involved a big tree, a seriously bended bumper and fender, a sling, a hi-lift and as much speed I could generate with my old diesel in the 6 meters of sling length.

If there are videos of either of these, I'd pay good money to see it.

My HJ60 came with painted duct-tape over all the huge rustholes...
Reading throught this thread I thought to myself, "I don't know enough to have pulled off any of these redneck fixes" and then I read the quote above. I never really thought of myself as having any redneck tendencies, but I think this qualifies!:
(And beelive me when I tell you that the entire run of drip rails and windshield frame were covered in duct tape and aluminum tape, spray-painted white (as were those doors shortly after this photo).
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I had a broken driver's side motor mount on my 60, but I didn't know it untill the vehicle started to lurch without stopping when I was down in Moab. I had a wretched Holly on it and when I hit the gas, the engine would lift on the driver's side, pulling the throttle cable even more. When the engine's torque would flatten out, it would stop. Then I'd have to give it a little input and it would lurch wildly again. In a panic I shut down the bucking beast and discovered the problem. I pulled out the existing cable setup and replaced it with the cable from the throttle lock using a couple of tools from the Toyota tool bag. It worked so well I left it there untill I had the money to replace the Holly with a Weber and retain the stock linkage. Obviously I bought a new motor mount when I got back home.
 
I had a 22R in a mini truck that collapsed a ring on I-75 just north of Knoxville heading to Lexington, KY, where I was co-oping. Popped the dipstick up into the hood, and covered everything with oil. Was blowing TONS of oil past the PCV into the carb, and burning it. Not pretty. Remove the PCV, took hose from valve cover to gallon jug I cable tied under the hood. Continued on my way (with no smoke) stopping every 50 or so miles to refill the crankcase with the oil collected in the gallon jug. Eventually drove it back through Knoxville, and to the NC/TN border before I met up with the fam. Coulda made it the rest of the way.
 

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