Red Line Oil Change (1 Viewer)

[Romer]

I Know Cary recommends Mobil 1 0-40W. H e also stated Redline is a great oil, but not worth the price. For Redline he has told me 5-30W. Redline also has the Ester (sp?) additives to help the seals. I already replaced my leaky seals so that is not an issue.

Advanced Auto Parts is having a big sale on Red Line Oil ($5.99 qt) and it is now close to Mobil 1. Since I was going to change my oil today anyways, thought I would try a Red Line Change.

Thought I would share the Joy!

Now for the Tech question: My dip stick shows the oil to be near the bottom of the grovved part, but above the add line. What is the difference in quarts between the full and add lines? Probably could find this via asearch, but gives me an opportunity to spread the news about Red Line.

Thanks.

 

[RavenTai]

Red line has more than just an ester addative the base oil is a synthetic ester.

IIRC the total cross hatch area on the dip stick is about one & one half quarts.

 

[Romer]

IIRC the total cross hatch area on the dip stick is about one & one half quarts.

Thanks RavenTai. The manual doesn't say and I was curious.

 

[RavenTai]

I think it is in the Owners manual, I'll have to take a look again.

 

[RavenTai]

From the OM,

Remove the oil filler cap and add engine oil a little at a time,
checking the dipstick. The approximate quantity of oil
needed to fill between the low line and the full line on the
dipstick is indicated below for reference.
When the level reaches within the correct range, return the
filler cap and turn the cap clockwise until you hear a click.
Oil quantity. L (qt., Imp. qt.) 1.5 (1.6, 1.3)

SO it is 1.6qt

 

[Romer]

Thans Raven!

On the Redline - I had great Oil Pressure before. Seems to be a touch higher.

 

[RavenTai]

what were you running before? higher pressure would tend to follow higher viscosity

 

[Romer]

It doesn't make sense because I was running the 0 40W Mobil 1. Could be just my imagination or the fact that it was (Now I Know) about 1.25 qts down when I changed it (probably it).

Cool Avatar Raven - What is it?

 

[RavenTai]

OK even though the something named 40wt would lead you to think it is thicker than a 30 wt Mobil 1 tends to run on the thin side, and IIRC Redline oils tend to run on the thick side

Mobil 1 0w-40

cSt @ 40º C 80
cSt @ 100º C 14.3


Redline 5w-30

Vis @ 40°C, cSt 94
Vis @ 100°C, cSt 15.1

The RL 5w-30 is slightly thicker both cold and warm than the M1 0w-40

thicker oils provide better protection but are harder to pump and less of it is pumped under certain conditions especially on start. There is a happy middle somewhere that is determined by your driving conditions

The avatar is the cams on my 1FZ in negative; the brown of the light varnish and oil turns blue in negative

This is the source image, should be more recognizable

 

[perk]

Wow...$5.99/qt is a great price. I need to do further investigating, but so far the only place I've found (an RV repair shop) carrying Redline oil is charging $10.50/qt. I hope to find it at a price I can swallow as I'd like to give it a try for it's "seal swelling tendencies".

Raven,
What viscocity (for Redline and Mobil 1) would you recommend for my climate here in Redlands, CA. Temperatures in winter range from 30's to 80's (VERY occasionally is it ever below 40) and summers are about 50's to 105. Is there any reason for me to switch viscocities seasonally. I know I could search for days on this topic, but I hold you, as Cary, in oil-guru status, and thought you could give me a quick answer.

If anyone elso out there would like to give me their opinion on the matter I would also apprecitate it

Thanks
Perk

 

[RavenTai]

Thanks but I still have not figured out what weight to run in my climate

So far I have run M1 5w-40 (Delvac 1) this summer, 15w-50 summer and fall, 10w-30/15w-50 mix this winter and yesterday put in 0w-40 for the spring. Next I am probably going to try Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-40 (15K stuff) for early summer.

I would follow the Toyota Austraila oil chart; the one provided in the US is driven by the EPA not by what is best for your motor Jonathan_Ferguson posted it for us, it is interesting to note the much different recommendation Toyota gives where US CAFE rules are not in effect, in AUS the US "recomended" 5w30 is only to be used in cold weather.

Engine
Petrol(1FZ-FE) temperatures converted to Fahrenheit via TI-36x
20W/50 19.4 to 100.4
15W/40 9.5 to 100.4
10W/30 0.4 to 100.4
5W/30 -20.2 to 50


With no cold starts you could get away with thick especially using M1,

You could get away with as thick as M1 15w-50 witch I ran this fall and turned in a good analysis. But that may be pushing it a little. A 0/5/10/15w-40 would be a good choice; I would not go with a 30wt or lower in your climate. I would think you could stick with one weight summer and winter, as you do not have that much variation,

 

[Andrewsreef]

Advanced Discount around here says that $5.95 will be the going price for Redline in all weights. What would be good to try 10W-30 or 10W-40 in the hot Florida climate. We are getting drops into the 40s but highs in the 80s. Soon it will be highs in the 90s. I was thinking the 10W-40 would be a good choice to see if it helps my consumption any. This is good news as I can't find 10W-40 Mobil 1 here at all.

Thanks

Andrew

 

[RavenTai]

you could run either but in south FL I would think the 10w-40 would be better. with morning rarely dropping below 35* you could run it year round just fine.

 

[hatfieldcb]

So even with the synthetic oils, sounds like you guys change every 3 months or so?

Chris

 

[e9999]

RT, does the timing chain show up like that with just the valve cover off or is there another cover at the end that needs to be removed?

aren't there additives one can add to regular oil to swell the seals?

 

[RavenTai]

So even with the synthetic oils, sounds like you guys change every 3 months or so?

Chris

I change mine roughly every 5K or so, I don’t worry to much if I go over some, I live 35 miles from work so I put a lot of miles on, ~5k lands me out to about 3 months. You can go 5K on dino oil also, after I get some things squared away including picking and sticking with a viscosity installing my bypass filter and figure out this lead problem I plan to try for 10K oil changes. That will get me to 6 month oil changes

RT, does the timing chain show up like that with just the valve cover off or is there another cover at the end that needs to be removed?

aren't there additives one can add to regular oil to swell the seals?

All you have to pull is the valve cover, those gears and the timing chain are just below and aft of the oil cap

There are many products that claim to swell seals, the Ester base (group V oil) oil of Redline is one of them, The esters in AutoRx are another. results are mixed and also it depends on where you leak/consumption is, you are certainly not going to “swell” piston rings. But if you can clean them they sometimes seal better both for compression and oil

 

[hatfieldcb]

...installing my bypass filter...

Bypass filter?

 

[e9999]

thanks RT, went to see the valve cover config. Should have done that first... Man, that thing is huge!

 

[RavenTai]

A bypass filter is a second filter but unlike the standard full flow oil filter the bypass filter takes small amount of the total stream of oil and filters out much smaller particles than the full flow filter can. After a wile all of the oil passes through the bypass filter,

I have an oil guard witch takes pre-made filter elements, there are other styles that use rolls of toilet paper as their element, some of the TP bypass filter users never "change" their oil, they just change the TP and FF filters and add make up oil. The oil is well filtered and slowly changed out over time. This is generally only possible with synthetic. I plan to run the oil guard element the full 10K OCI and change it the oil and FF filter at the same time.

 

[RavenTai]

Man, that thing is huge!

Yes it is, the part that is wider on one side at the front is where the timing chain sprocket is, you also get a glance at part of the chain slipper when you remove the valve cover, enough to tell if it is broken, supposedly on our later trucks this is less of a problem.