Recurrent oil/antifreeze problems

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So I have oil drained, front belt off ps and air pump route, air filter box and egr tube. What needs to be installed to test compression


Do you have an FSM?
I believe the FSM states that the engine is supposed to be at operating temp prior to the compression test. If not, your numbers will be drastically lower than spec.

It SHOULD still show a drastic change from cylinder to cylinder if there is indeed an issue.

Typically, the HG's fail on #6, #1, or between #5 and 6.

If you have a cracked head, the compression test may not catch it unless the engine is at operating temp.

At the very least, you need a way to rapidly turn over the engine with the spark plugs in it. The proper way is to do one cylinder at a time, removing the plug on ONLY the cylinder you are doing. If you remove ALL the plugs and crank it withe the compression tester on only one cylinder, then it cranks too rapidly and gives false high readings.

Make sure the coil wire is unhooked so you don't end up with fuel igniting where it shouldn't be. Don't need any of the belts to do this test if you're doing it cold.

The comment about cold weather is because we've had folks see the steam coming out the exhaust when it got cold and they thought they blew a HG. They are the same people that remove the oil fill cap on the top of the engine, see some milky substance and think the blew a HG, when in fact all that shows is condensation from sitting overnight.
 
All of my 80s blow white smoke, especially in the winter. None of them lose coolant or have blown HGs.

My driveway is whiter than a frat party when I’m warming up my trucks in the morning.

Personally, I’d stop doing ANYTHING until you get the oil analysis back from Blackstone. Otherwise you are just guessing and throwing away time and money.
 
Here’s a blurry pic of when in videotaped it going back into garage. But it was a giant cloud not just lil puff. This is still normal?

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A giant cloud is not normal. Does it run well?
 
A giant cloud is not normal. Does it run well?

Remember that the temperature is a little colder in Colorado than in PHX.

The past week I've had pretty good size clouds behind my son's 92 and my 93 when they were started up to warm up. Outdoor temp range was -11F to 7F.
 
I should clarify that it may not be "normal" but it also doesn't mean that the HG is blown. Moisture in the exhaust system, oil getting past the rings, running rich, multiple things can cause casper to appear behind a rig. Especially when cold.
 
Here’s a blurry pic of when in videotaped it going back into garage. But it was a giant cloud not just lil puff. This is still normal?

View attachment 1604240


I cannot see squat with that pic.

What is the temperature outside when you did this?

To give an example on an old Chevy 6- cyl I had when I cracked the head..... I pulled into a gas station and had cops pulling in behind me because they thought the gas station was on fire. I could NOT see the gas station doorway on a 10*F night with a cracked head and the engine still running.

Like you shouldn't be able to see inside your garage.

Now, that being said....@ariff just had a bad HG and he had no detectable cloud of smoke or steam, and couldn't find the "leak" where he was losing coolant. It turned out for him it was a blown HG into # 6, but it was also a 1FZ-FE.

This is why it is incredibly important to actually do the testing. You can do it, but you MAY spend $3000 and it didn't "fix" anything because there was nothing wrong, even though you MAY have convinced yourself that you have a bad HG.

I don't know your abilities or experience, so you have to be the judge here.

You have 22 posts and live in Colorado, where it has been extremely cold the last few days.

When there is a sudden temp drop, MANY people freak out and think they have a HG issue and start tearing into things when it is unnecessary.
 
Well, you know where I stand. I wouldn't do another thing to it until I had the oil analysis back. But if you $28 is going to break your bank then I would go ahead and pull the motor, replace all soft parts and gaskets, and then hope when you put it together it isn't a cracked head. But you will have "saved" $28 on the oil analysis!
 
Weather was warm n sunny. Dec 20 I think. 56 *f


Could it be a HG? Yes.

Could it be normal? Yes.

I'm 600 miles east of you and am only looking at blurry pictures on a computer.

@LS1FJ40 is 718 miles east of you, looking at the same stuff I am. He's just a bit more vocal about it today.

Maybe he's tired of helping people today....... (that's a joke for him....)

We all still recommend going through the troubleshooting sequence of it.
You're going to do what you want anyway as it's your rig and your money.
Please post up so you can prove us wrong. Seriously.
 
Could it be a HG? Yes.

Could it be normal? Yes.

I'm 600 miles east of you and am only looking at blurry pictures on a computer.

@LS1FJ40 is 718 miles east of you, looking at the same stuff I am. He's just a bit more vocal about it today.

Maybe he's tired of helping people today....... (that's a joke for him....)

We all still recommend going through the troubleshooting sequence of it.
You're going to do what you want anyway as it's your rig and your money.
Please post up so you can prove us wrong. Seriously.

If I’ve learned one thing from @jonheld its that you must diagnose, systematically, before you fix. Until you have the facts then anyone can guess what is wrong. And maybe somebody will be right.

Unless you have really deep pockets then you can throw parts at it until the cows come home! But seeing as how the OP doesn’t want to spend $28 on an oil analysis then I’m not sure that’s the case... it isn’t typically the case for me either.
 
What is this jonheld incident of which you speak? I will go out and grab a comp tester tonight...

And I can motor this thing with no motor oil in it minus it running with no ill effects?
 
So will it run with air filter and egr off etc to get it warmed up?

Its not necessary to warm the engine before performing the compression check. Its more accurate that way, but for your purposes (looking for an obvious difference between cylinders) you can do it cold and with all spark plugs out.

I like to hook up a battery charger to the battery as well. By the time you get to checking the #6 cylinder, you can start to drain a battery that isn't in tip-top shape.

Be sure the engine turns the same number of revolutions per cylinder (7-8 should be plenty). Ideally you don't want to see more than 10% difference (psi) between the highest and lowest cylinder. Most likely you'll see between 140 psi to 170 psi if you have healthy cylinders.

You are looking for a large disparity in the cylinder (#5) that you are checking for the 'mis-fire'. I don't think you are going to turn up any compression problems, but its worth checking just to know the general condition of the engine and to rule that possibility out.

For any cylinder to 'fire' correctly, you have to have:

Proper Air/Fuel mix getting to the cylinder.
Spark (to ignite the mixture)
Enough compression to heat the air/fuel charge and further vaporize it.
 
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6-1

95 then with oil 101
110
115
115
115
125

Did six and 5 again after battery was lower charged.

That’s the waste oil all separated on bottom. And my lil helper sitting on steering wheel to get enough height to see toad hahah

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66C57C96-7E15-4EAF-8ACE-A8B7B5EAAD4B.webp


0CD7F11E-6513-4CBB-AB4C-0485DADCB7BD.webp
 
Are those numbers with all the spark plugs out? If not....you aren't getting enough engine revolution (250 rpm or more) to adequately to do this test.

Throttle should be wide open, battery fully charged (or better yet....on a charger) spin the motor 7-8 revolutions per cylinder. Minimum pressure should be around 115 psi and something between 145-170 psi would be a LOT better.
 
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