I need to install recovery points / shackles on my FJ40; but don't want to weld anything on the front bumper. Ideally; looking for a bolt on solution to replace the tow hooks.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
Recovery Points for FJ40? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter AYM707
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Mine was born with that first set of hooks style.
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I thought tow hooks are not considered "safe" for vehicle recovery. I've got one on the front, will source another.
A lot of "new" stuff has absolutely nothing to hook too - watch Matt's off road recovery for many examples.
Hooks aren't the best as things can slip off if the line/cable/chain goes slack. Using something like bailing or copper wire, perhaps even big hose clamps or zip ties can keep the hooked engaged.
Hooks aren't the best as things can slip off if the line/cable/chain goes slack. Using something like bailing or copper wire, perhaps even big hose clamps or zip ties can keep the hooked engaged.
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Personally it depends on what I'm doing with them. For a simple non-kinetic tow they're perfectly adequate, and fast. For a heavier pull I use the welded shackle mounts.
What are you guys doing on the rear?
I have the factory hitch with a ball. Plus I built some serious bumpers out of like 4" channel and box iron and 1/2" plate steel secured with grade 8 bolts.
pb4ugo
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NEVER USE A TRAILER BALL OR CHROME TOW HOOKS!!!!. Imo, a reciever with a welded tow hook shouldn't be used either. I've used tow hooks on the frt for decades. I try to incorporate the bumper mounting and also make up backing plates for inside the frame that use the hooks mounting bolts. Imo, the frame thickness is not enuff to prevent bending or bowing.
The bolt on trailer receiver in the rear is in a bad location for a recovery point unless it's heavily reinforced. The crossmember can easily bow out and twist up when pulling on it. The recovery points should be inline with the frame rails or mount a heavy bumper with a reciver in the center with it mounted properly, inline with the frame rails and heavy enuff not to distort. A simple rear recovery point in the rear would be the leaf spring and a large shackle.
The bolt on trailer receiver in the rear is in a bad location for a recovery point unless it's heavily reinforced. The crossmember can easily bow out and twist up when pulling on it. The recovery points should be inline with the frame rails or mount a heavy bumper with a reciver in the center with it mounted properly, inline with the frame rails and heavy enuff not to distort. A simple rear recovery point in the rear would be the leaf spring and a large shackle.
Living in the Past
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Would use the hooks on the front for recovery long be for I would use them for towing. Towing when the tow vehicle slows the vehicle being towed move moves faster and strap being used becomes loose. It then the strap would pop off the hook.
You can find how with a piece of spring metal that closes the hook. That would help the strap from popping off but wound still not trust for towing. Owners manual shows the shackles being used for recovery but depending on how modified a 40 is with extra weight and how stuck a cruiser is I would decide to use it not.
As for thee hooks on the front as of 1/75 there was only one on driver's side.
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Stout Equipment rear bumper/carrier (sadly no longer made) with welded shackle mounts.
1911
chupacabra
4+ bumper with integrated recovery points welded on. Sorry if hard to see in this photo:
Thanks guys for the suggestions.
Living in the Past
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Going by this post the question is about the front bumper and not welding. Are needing to use for towing or recovery? I've never question the strength of the front hooks. I have never seen one that has failed. Following the link in the second post shows a 10,000# hook next to a stock hook. The stock hook looks just as beefy. If towing the vehicle would invest in a tow bar. I have an old factory bumper with a couple of tabs welded on I use for a tow bar. I used it on multiple 40 series to tow them thousands of miles. It's a bolt on option and useable any 40 series that still has the stock bumper mounts.
The four main center holes aren't threaded afaik. At least I've never seen them threaded on any 40/55s I've owned. The hole layout does correspond to some sizes of pintle hitches that various Cruiser shops used to sell. I'd still want to back anything bolted to the rear crossmember with 1/2" plate and maybe some diagonals angled over to the rails.
4Plus used to sell a bolt-on rear shackle mount. No longer. I think only BTB/Manafre does now. It's not as nice as the older 4Plus piece.
The CCOT hell for stout front bumper is on sale for $300. Dirt cheap IMO.
The rear is another matter. Thinner metal and lack of support back there for towing. Plenty of easy options for reinforcement if you have a little welding skill.
