Recomendation for suspension joints & set ups.

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canadian bum

canadian bum

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Sep 13, 2004
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See a lot of rigs running pretty overkill joints. Just wondering what is the recomendation for type and size of joints. Going to be 4 linking the rear on my 40 as well as 3 link with a panhard bar for the front axle. Also pics and ideas for suspension designs are always welcome. Have basic ideas in my head but some more experienced and tested designs are always welcome.
Thanks,
John
 
Anyone ever hear of Ballistic Fabrication? I am thinking about using there joints, greasable and made out of billet.
 
What are you running for engine and power wise? I am going to be running diesel torque through this set up so I am going to pool together everyones knowledge. Been reading up on this for sometime and won't be building most likely till next year. So lots of time to decide.
Thanks
 
I asked alot of the same questions a few months back - and got some decent responses, but more importantly - good pics. I've almost got all the pieces I need - and stopped posting and just follow a few build threads (there are several on here that are just beautiful, especially the surgeon out west).

I got my brackets/trusses from Ruff Stuff - heavy stuff, but priced fair and reputabel vender. There's several others.

Links - I bought the BF 2.63 link ends and related hardware. Pricey and overkill - but damn nice stuff, and I want to build to allow for some street use. If you search, you'll find that most others went with more affordable rod end options.
 
 
Thanks, that is really helpful, and yeah I am building a dual purpose street and offroad set up.
 
I decided on using Currie Enterprises 2.5" Johnny Joints on both ends of my control arms and 7/8" heims on my panhard. I liked the rebuildabilty of the johnny joints and the fact that they have the urethane cups inside to isolate vibrations from the vehicle. I'm using the weldable ones on one end and the 1" rod end style on the other. I got a screaming deal on the 1" ones and was going to return them for the 1 1/4" but decided not to to save on all the shipping back and forth. Currie says they have never seen one of their johnny joints fail at the threaded rod. I dunno if that true or not.
 
have a link i cant seem to find it on pirate either i suck t usin search
Sputnik40 said:
Can't find the one with the Doc's widked build up - must be on Pirate...
Click to expand...
 
I started coming over here now too! Imagine my surprise...

Here's my build thread:

A Fool and his Money - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

I used FK rod ends. The JMX hardened rod end with a 1.25" shank and 1" eye hole had ridiculous strength. I think it was good for about 107,000 pounds. With the high misalignment spacers, it takes a 3/4" bolt and gets about 36* of articulation. Of course, the 3/4" grade 8 bolt becomes the "weak link" at that point, but that's a helluva strong weak link! My welds are going to part long before that bolt shears.

I learned about the Ballistic Fab joints long after I had sourced all the parts for my links. I'd have strongly considered those joints as well.
 
Thanks guys, one step closer to having this going from paper to build. Still lots of work to do yet.
 
Hey Doc, how did you figure out what size you needed on each end of the links im thinking about linking my heavy 80
 
BellyDoc said:
I started coming over here now too! Imagine my surprise...

Here's my build thread:

A Fool and his Money - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

I used FK rod ends. The JMX hardened rod end with a 1.25" shank and 1" eye hole had ridiculous strength. I think it was good for about 107,000 pounds. With the high misalignment spacers, it takes a 3/4" bolt and gets about 36* of articulation. Of course, the 3/4" grade 8 bolt becomes the "weak link" at that point, but that's a helluva strong weak link! My welds are going to part long before that bolt shears.

I learned about the Ballistic Fab joints long after I had sourced all the parts for my links. I'd have strongly considered those joints as well.
Click to expand...



Just wanted you to know I nearly fell outa my chair laughing just a few minuets ago when I read this:

"I grew up as a nerdy Jewish kid in Los Angeles.

Now I'm a gun totin', 4 wheel drivin' (Jewish doctor) Arizonan.

Haven't I strayed far enough?"

still enjoying reading your build thread :grinpimp:
 
BenMara said:
Hey Doc, how did you figure out what size you needed on each end of the links im thinking about linking my heavy 80
Click to expand...

My calculations were highly scientific. I used the "P" formula. P stands for "Plenty". I wanted as much of every potential as possible since I was sourcing parts before I had a well crafted design.

I've wallowed out the bolt hole for a lower rear link mount before, and I vowed to go with a nice thick piece of plate steel for the tab and a very large bolt to put through it. I went with 3/8" plate for the link captures and a 3/4" bolt.

If you look at the tables for JMX rod ends, you'll see that the misalignment capability increases with size. The 1.25" shank, 1" eye hole version goes to 17 degrees. If you put a high misalignment spacer in there, you downsize the bolt to 3/4" but you get up to 32 degrees of misalignment.

There are misalignment spacers for rod ends with an .875" eye hole that take a 3/4" bolt, but they only get 30 degrees. It's a small difference, but the strength of the part is also less than half that of the 1.25" shank.

Both of those rod ends are compatible with weld-in tube adapters that fit into 1.5" ID tubing (I went with 2" .250" wall 4130 so that I could heat treat).

So, I went with the bigger badder choice, based on "P".

In the end, I also designed my linkage system so that ALL of the links... all 4 in back and all 4 in front are exactly the same length. They're interchangeable. I have one spare for the whole vehicle.
 
My buddy did A LOT of research on link ends and finally settled on the EVO's HERE.

I couldn't beleive the size of these things when they showed up...

Just another option to consider. I'll have to ask him if the Ballistic Fab ones were out yet when he made his decision.

Evol.jpg
 
Ive used lots of joints
I have the first generation balistic fab joints on my current build-dont like em. they have an inferior race and dont use a cclip to retain the race so are difficult to rebuild. need lots of adjustment. the threaded shank is tigged to the joint (not a forged piece)

just baught the new generation balistic joints 1.25" shank-using them to link up my dads tj. much better joint. better construction and race. one piece shank and joint. uses clips. good looking joint

just baught some more currrie johny joints. aren't built as well in my opinion as the balistics. but you can get them in the very smaller sizes

just baught some of those new balistic rebuildable rubber joints with the one piece 1.25 threaded shank. coolest joint in the world. even greasable.

Rubicon express rubber joint is also a great rubber joint. im using 6 of them on my giant 80. they are such a durrable joint. they are on my radius arms now. non-greasaable

all rubber joints besides the rubicon, balistic, and oe yota 80 series are inferior. period. all those rubber joints on polyperformance with 1/4" of rubber between the outer dom and the center tube just wear out so fast. i have many of there joints. dont waste your money

Im using the giant evo joints on my 80. bombproof and perfect machine work. the threads are tight. but they require constant tightneing of the preload. too much work. but with my heavy 80 i wanted the 3/4" bolt for the rear frame radius

Im getting too lazy to do all the preload checks on rebuildable joints. go rubber or nice heims.

do like the Doc did
 
tkx for the break down on the joints Dusty. now i need to find some one to install the atlas 4 speed
 
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