Recent Electrical Gremlin Causes No Voltage Anywhere (1 Viewer)

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Long post I know but please bear with me here...

Recent Issues:
-- Put key in ignition, turn to acc. position and all the dash lights flicker for a second then completely go off. I look down at my voltmeter I installed above the seat heater switches and it is not even illuminated.

-- Removed key, let it sit for ~30sec and repeated the above process again. This time my voltmeter is flickering a little but with no readable measurements (seems like its only receiving intermittent & sporadic current flow)

-- After repeating those steps a few more times with no success I let my rig sit on level ground and waited ~5min. I decided to give it one more shot and this time (w/o attempting to start the engine; the key's in the acc. pos.) everything comes on normally but the voltmeter is reading 11.2-11.6V with all lights, radio, and A/C turned off. I have never had this happen to me before. As a result of that low current I tried starting the engine and heard absolutely NOTHING other than the fuel pump. Not a single click of the starter, not a single crank due to the starter not engaging due to low current.

-- Right after that last step I removed the key completely, reinserted it, turned and she fired up!:D

Has anyone ever experienced this? So far I have ruled out the immobilizer issue since my symptoms are not similar to those who have experienced that issue. I have yet to rule out water intrusion though and here are my reasonings:

-- My passenger front door speakers will sometimes cut in and out throughout car rides and that bugs the s**t out me due to my OCD affiliated with owning my Land Cruiser hahah.

--
Despite all of the rain and heavy storms we've received here in central AR I have not had any signs of water intrusion (i.e. no wet floor boards, no signs of dampness around the A & B pillars, sunroof, etc..) although I didn't have time to pull those panels to check behind them but I will ASAP.

-- Possible unrelated issue but both my center light bar and Rigid Pod light switches in the cabin are really beginning to stick as if there's gunk or something restricting it. The RI pod light switch takes anywhere from 2 to 3 flicks back and forth for both of them to turn on. Like I said this may be an unrelated issue.

Conclusion:
I am thinking a possible water intrusion on the drivers side A pillar, which could possibly leak down to those switches causing them to stick, and then down to the driver side kick panel fuse block causing the electrical gremlins. Does that sound like the plausible root of all my issues? I would appreciate any input on this especially from anyone who may have experienced these same issues. Thank you in advance guys!:cheers:
 
What's your battery voltage when off as measured with a multimeter? Are your lights wired to acc power, or straight to battery? Just wondering about the condition of your battery...
 
I'll guess at a bad ground somewhere. Your truck's had some electrical work: big 3 upgrades, lights, meter, submersion, etc. I'd look first at the grounds associated with what you've done and the battery ground cable, then look in the fuse boxes/panels for water/corrosion, then check the ignition switch itself, then replace the battery (I'm starting to grasp at straws here!). Gremlins like this are no fun.
 
I had the exact same thing happen to me this morning....I'll definitely be watching this thread. I have the same symptoms with the speakers too and my aftermarket HU.
 
Me too. I suspect the passenger front door has water intrusion. My speaker in that door is also out, and the power lock doesn't work on that door either. I'll be taking apart soon and will report back.
 
Long post I know but please bear with me here...

Recent Issues:
-- Put key in ignition, turn to acc. position and all the dash lights flicker for a second then completely go off. I look down at my voltmeter I installed above the seat heater switches and it is not even illuminated.

-- Removed key, let it sit for ~30sec and repeated the above process again. This time my voltmeter is flickering a little but with no readable measurements (seems like its only receiving intermittent & sporadic current flow)

-- After repeating those steps a few more times with no success I let my rig sit on level ground and waited ~5min. I decided to give it one more shot and this time (w/o attempting to start the engine; the key's in the acc. pos.) everything comes on normally but the voltmeter is reading 11.2-11.6V with all lights, radio, and A/C turned off. I have never had this happen to me before. As a result of that low current I tried starting the engine and heard absolutely NOTHING other than the fuel pump. Not a single click of the starter, not a single crank due to the starter not engaging due to low current.

-- Right after that last step I removed the key completely, reinserted it, turned and she fired up!:D

Has anyone ever experienced this? So far I have ruled out the immobilizer issue since my symptoms are not similar to those who have experienced that issue. I have yet to rule out water intrusion though and here are my reasonings:

-- My passenger front door speakers will sometimes cut in and out throughout car rides and that bugs the s**t out me due to my OCD affiliated with owning my Land Cruiser hahah.

-- Despite all of the rain and heavy storms we've received here in central AR I have not had any signs of water intrusion (i.e. no wet floor boards, no signs of dampness around the A & B pillars, sunroof, etc..) although I didn't have time to pull those panels to check behind them but I will ASAP.

-- Possible unrelated issue but both my center light bar and Rigid Pod light switches in the cabin are really beginning to stick as if there's gunk or something restricting it. The RI pod light switch takes anywhere from 2 to 3 flicks back and forth for both of them to turn on. Like I said this may be an unrelated issue.

Conclusion:
I am thinking a possible water intrusion on the drivers side A pillar, which could possibly leak down to those switches causing them to stick, and then down to the driver side kick panel fuse block causing the electrical gremlins. Does that sound like the plausible root of all my issues? I would appreciate any input on this especially from anyone who may have experienced these same issues. Thank you in advance guys!:cheers:


Would be interested to hear what you ultimately figured out. Also what mechanic do you use in central AR? I’ve been battling starting issue and can seem to get it diagnosed. Long cranks before it fires - like loooong - or I can back off the key and the. It usually fires on the second try. Make me think it’s not getting fuel. Pump has been replaced and did filter at the same time. Wondering if there is a pressure issue between the pump and injectors. Probably due to change out the plugs too.
 

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