Rebuilt stock 2F ALT won't charge

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IS2SPICY4U

IS2SPICY4U

10 Year
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Threads
24
Messages
86
Location
Eugene, OR
How it started:
Left the lights on a couple of times this year, so battery was drained completely. I had to leave the car plugged in with a batt maintainer/charger for a few days to get the battery to work again
How is going:
Rebuilt ALT passes bench tests, gets 14V, but won't charge when installed. I get turn signals, hazard and head lights; no break lights, no dash lights and no internal fan. Rebuilt ALT did work just fine for about 2 weeks.

This is a continuation, sort of, of this thread.

What I did today..
  • Got battery tested, passed. No issues there
  • Checked ground connections. Sanded connections to show more metal and reattached. Still no luck.
Interestingly enough, after ALT "went out" charge/power will come back at times, after revving engine or driving on the highway for a while. So I thought ALT belt was the issue, tried a couple diff sizes until I settle for what I have on right now. ALT belt was also screeching at engine first start, but it will stop once engine was warm. So I ordered the correct ALT pulley from City Racer, while keeping the same belt, now it won't screech, but main issue persists.

I'll update this post as I keep trying new things, but please do share what else I may try.

Thank you.
 
How old is the battery? What test was run on it? I’ve seen many batteries have good CCA but fail reserve testing. I just have to ask since the original thread is 6 years old.

Just posting for clarity’s sake: fusible link and all fuses in good condition?
 
IS2SPICY4U said:
How is going:
Rebuilt ALT passes bench tests, gets 14V, but won't charge when installed. I get turn signals, hazard and head lights; no break lights, no dash lights and no internal fan. Rebuilt ALT did work just fine for about 2 weeks.
Click to expand...
This definitely sounds like a fusible link issue to me, but without being there in person I can't say that with 100% certainty. The fusible link has 3 wires to it, and they exactly as you describe: alternator charging, head lights, and everything else (the interior fuse panel). It's a little strange that your turn signals and hazard are working - admittedly that's a bit of an anomaly that works against my theory.

As @DrRock said, I do sell a fusible link replacement kit. The advantages are that it makes replacing a blown link much easier (it uses common fuses that you can find at auto parts stores), it uses larger gauge wiring that results in a higher rate of charge and a higher idle voltage (Toyota used what I feel is undersized wiring for the task at hand), and it's plug & play (very easy to install). I can't guarantee that it would completely solve your issue - again I can't be there to diagnose your issues in person - but even if it doesn't, it will be a major electrical system improvement once you find & fix the culprit.

In an effort to satisfy due diligence, have you cleaned the ground at the bottom of the driver side A-pillar? That one is the ground for a lot of the stuff in the dash. Obviously all the grounds are worth cleaning too, especially the main ground from the battery to the inner fender.
 
CruiserTrash said:
This definitely sounds like a fusible link issue to me, but without being there in person I can't say that with 100% certainty. The fusible link has 3 wires to it, and they exactly as you describe: alternator charging, head lights, and everything else (the interior fuse panel). It's a little strange that your turn signals and hazard are working - admittedly that's a bit of an anomaly that works against my theory.

As @DrRock said, I do sell a fusible link replacement kit. The advantages are that it makes replacing a blown link much easier (it uses common fuses that you can find at auto parts stores), it uses larger gauge wiring that results in a higher rate of charge and a higher idle voltage (Toyota used what I feel is undersized wiring for the task at hand), and it's plug & play (very easy to install). I can't guarantee that it would completely solve your issue - again I can't be there to diagnose your issues in person - but even if it doesn't, it will be a major electrical system improvement once you find & fix the culprit.

In an effort to satisfy due diligence, have you cleaned the ground at the bottom of the driver side A-pillar? That one is the ground for a lot of the stuff in the dash. Obviously all the grounds are worth cleaning too, especially the main ground from the battery to the inner fender.
Click to expand...
I gave the FL a good "cleaning" a year ago when I put new batt terminals. I guess I could check for continuity?? in the meantime. I'd like to order one. Link to store? Thank you :)
 
klinetime574 said:
How old is the battery? What test was run on it? I’ve seen many batteries have good CCA but fail reserve testing. I just have to ask since the original thread is 6 years old.

Just posting for clarity’s sake: fusible link and all fuses in good condition?
Click to expand...
Goo point, I failed to mentioned that. Since that post 6 years ago, I've gone thru 2 batteries, current is little over a year old. Les Schawb has goo warranty on them. They checked it and they said "nothing wrong with it, batt is at 85%.. " whatever that means. I know they check for charge and that it can turn the starter.

After getting new batt, I also got new terminals and gave the FL a good "clean" removed some corrosion and oxidation. Haven't tested for continuity tho, I guess I could.
 
First off, add an inexpensive headlight warning buzzer (thank @Dynosoar ) Any 12v piezo buzzer will work. I used to leave my lights on all the time, too.

Dynosoar

Post in thread 'Best Mods under $50...'

Headlight Warning Buzzer!!!!!

I did it again!! I left my lights on after driving through a daylight headlight section of road. When I got back to the car the battery was DEAD.
I charged it up overnight and then drove to Radio Shack, I purchased a Mini 12v buzzer (Part# 273000055)(NEW PART # 2730059). This is a very small less than 1 in (2.5 cm) box with two wires (black and red) coming out of it. My '82 has the old type glass fuses. '83 and later have the blade type (I believe).

Pulled the headlight (left) fuse and pushed it back in with the red wire between the fuse and the...
  • Like
 
Success!!!
It was the fusible link. it was cooked!

IMG_9978.webp
IMG_9979.webp


IMG_9980.webp


I had to Frankenstein it though. I removed the wire and female connector from the bottom end of the link, cleaned up the male/female connectors on both ends of the middle part, you can see on the second pic some of the green plastic from the bottom connector that got stuck in the middle part of the link connector housing, as well as cleaning the male connector on the part that goes to the battery. Reconnected and tested continuity to the O ring connector that geos to the ALT. It works.

I had to get a new female connector at AutoZone for the bottom part of the link, but since is gauge 10, it was a little too wide. I had to heat up a flathead screwdriver with a torch so I could expand the opening on the housing so I could fit the new connector. Not sure how this would screw me now?? since I am planning on ordering @CruiserTrash fusible link.

Thank you all for contributing. Much appreciated.
 
IS2SPICY4U said:
Success!!!
It was the fusible link. it was cooked!

View attachment 4022331View attachment 4022334

View attachment 4022335

I had to Frankenstein it though. I removed the wire and female connector from the bottom end of the link, cleaned up the male/female connectors on both ends of the middle part, you can see on the second pic some of the green plastic from the bottom connector that got stuck in the middle part of the link connector housing, as well as cleaning the male connector on the part that goes to the battery. Reconnected and tested continuity to the O ring connector that geos to the ALT. It works.

I had to get a new female connector at AutoZone for the bottom part of the link, but since is gauge 10, it was a little too wide. I had to heat up a flathead screwdriver with a torch so I could expand the opening on the housing so I could fit the new connector. Not sure how this would screw me now?? since I am planning on ordering @CruiserTrash fusible link.

Thank you all for contributing. Much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Great job tracking the issue down! That’s got to feel good.

Personally for something with a lot of safety riding on it, I’d be hesitant to run it. To each their own, though.
 
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