Thje reason I asked about the fuel feed line is that I've seen a few backyard plumbing setups that didn't allow for sufficient fuel flow. Make sure the hose is not kinked/collapsed and that the ?adapters? at either end are not restricting fuel flow.
Since really nothing has changed since installing the carb except the charcoal canister. I didn't have one before with my Rocehester set up. Is it possible that some junk or dirt was lodged in the cansiter and got sucked into the tank then into my fuel lines? Could their be loose charcoal inside the canister? This is a used canister from SOR. Couldn't find/was told Toyota doesn't make new ones anymore. Gonna do the seperate fuel line test tomorrow.
The charcoal cannister only deals with vapor and does not return any liquid fuel to the gas tank, assuming that it is properly plumbed.
If it is hooked properly, it is not part of the problem. It just keeps your truck from stinking like gas.
The truck is a 73. One other thing it is set up with a throttle cable and not the Bell crank. Here are some shots of the set up. Let me know if you need to see any other views. Gonna change the fuel filter today/tomorrow. Also gonna run it without a gas cap like Pighead reccomended. Thanks again guys!
How did you convert the bell crank to cable? Can you please post a clearer view of the set-up? how's the performance? I mean, is it smooth? I also did a conversion but not quite happy about the performance. It's kinda sticky.
Chris, I picked up a clear plastic fuel filter from the Napa in San Marcos for around $5. Might check with one of the parts shops by your place. You can see the fuel flow through and any junk accumulating. Good luck.
Thanks guys and thanks for putting up with all my dumb questions. I am definitely putting in an additional clear view filter once I track down this problem. My mechanic is going to help me go over the set up again in the morning.
The pertronix was put in probably 7 months ago and I haven't had any problems with it. The timing was advanced but am not sure how much. We will check it again tomorrow.
Just got back from testing with my mechanic who installed the carb.
The problem was that the "spring loaded rod for the accelerator pump" they fabricated to make the carb work for my truck is flooding out the carb under higher acceleration. My truck was set up with throttle cable by the PO when he installed the Rochester. Going to try to track the correct one down from Spector. Wish me luck. Anyone know the exact name for this part. Going to call Spector from the shop.
Good news is I live in a small beach town so the truck is still driveable until I get the new part.
So glad I am not having to mess with cleaning up the gas tank.
So here is the spring loaded rod that was missing. The shop fabricated a solid rod for the missing piece but it was not properly spring driven. Found one through Spector so I am hoping I am good to go.
Just want to thank everyone again for all their input and help in trying to track this thing down.
The problem was that the "spring loaded rod for the accelerator pump" they fabricated to make the carb work for my truck is flooding out the carb under higher acceleration. .
That doesn't sound like a reasonable explanation for the problem you describe. The pump only squirts when the throttle is opening, so after a couple of seconds it is done pumping. Unsually bucking and spitting means it is running lean. If it was rich, it might bog down a bit.
That doesn't sound like a reasonable explanation for the problem you describe. The pump only squirts when the throttle is opening, so after a couple of seconds it is done pumping. Unsually bucking and spitting means it is running lean. If it was rich, it might bog down a bit.
So like everyone said the spring didn't do jack s***. I am going to get with another mechanic that has work on my truck before that is better with carb issues to help when I get some more time on Mon. Will let you know.
Gado, here are the pics of the throttle set up you wanted to check out. I was missing the cable eye when I sent the carb in but Jim replaced it with the one shown in the pic. Do you have this piece on your set up?
So we finally solved the carb problem.....I think I maybe also solved my PC virus problem. Seems like all this crap happens at the same time. BTW I called a local computer repair guy today and they wanted $95/hour to diagnose and fix some virus issues! Wow, I think I'll figure it out myself for that much.
Anyway after going back over all the lines, fuel routing, pump fuel filter etc. it finally came down to some debris in and around the needle and seat in the carb. Thing runs like a champ now. Also got to check out the truck on dyno and my mechanic confirmed that I am hitting a whopping 75hp.
Anyway, I want to thank everyone again for all the help trying to diagnose. Heading out tomorrow to get a couple clear universal fuel filters tomorrow so I can keep an eye out for debris heading towards the carb in the future. Am planning on putting one before my stock fuel filter and another one after the pump closer to the carb....any other suggestions of better places.
With the combo of a new thermostattherm gauge and the carb repair I am really glad to have my truck running really solid/confident right now. And way better gas mileage.
Thanks D! So stoked to have the rig running good again. I've still got a little idle, idle/mixture tweaking to do but no biggie. I've had a clear filter installed past the pump now for about a tank full and no debris so far....not sure where that "gunk" came from.
The tiny screen at the carb inlet is the last defense for the carb agains junk. I have had issues like this before. I would suspect, the looong rubber hose they ran for fuel delivery, may have had gunk in it from the beginning. Either bits of rubber cuttings, or just stuff from sitting around.
I will say, you will not like that rubber. I had a similar settup coming to a Holley carb. Hose got brittle and cracked due to the heat of the head and headers. Always carried spare fuel line, as you could never tell when it would crap out on you. Carry a bunch of spare line in your case.
As for the questions on the throttle cable. Don't change anything, Jim has set this carb up, so you can use just the throttle cable. You are settup with factory parts there, it should all work perfectly. The only thing that needs tended to, is the throttle return spring. You may need to fabricate a bracket to recreate the original. This would mount under the nuts on the drivers side of the carb base studs. The spring should pull straight against the throttle linkage.
