rebuilt 2F timing cover oil leak. (1 Viewer)

[Randy]

rebuilt 2F timing cover oil leak. *UPDATE*FIXXED!!

I appreciate all your advice and help during my recent 2F build. The rebuilt motor runs great and is working out fine. I however am having a bit of an issue with an oil leak around the front timing cover area. As an automotive tech by trade, its pissing me off to no end. AS I do all paper/cork gaskets, the clean block gets wiped with a rag with carb cleaner, then a continous 1/8" bead of good quality silicone then the gasket. Using this method I end up with a VERY small amount of silicone squished out when the component is buttoned up. This method has served me well. Thinking I screwed up, I pulled timing cover again and resealed it using a new Felpro timing cover gasket, same damn leak. The leak is coming from the timing cover or plate. All bolts are the correct lengh for their hole. The two large bottom bolts have silicone on them. The leak is NOT from the crank seal. When I installed the timing gear oiler, it lined up perfectly when screwed all the way in. The entire oil pan, including the corners is dry. The only thing I didn't use sealer on was one side of the plate gasket. Do you think this could be my oil leak source? I got distracted during this step and the plate gasket only ended up with sealer on the block side.

The leak will only happen when driven at higher rpm's for awile (freeway) and is two or three drop's per driving cycle. Any advice on what I'm missing here? Any known leaks from a faulty timing cover? Sorry for the long email, just want to give you as much info as possible.

Randy
ntoracn@yahoo.com

 

[Heartworm]

Could the plate be bent? I had a bent plate on an FJ40 that went through a rebuild once.

 

[Pighead]

I love this question so much, I'll answer it twice. You threaded your oil squirter too far into the timing plate. The bottom of your squirter bumps into the block and pushes the plate out, there's your oil leak. Unscrew the squirter a turn and stake it in place with a centerpunch at the base.

 

[Spike Strip]

^

x2

A surprisingly common assembly error.

Page 3-30 in the 2F manual. http://hugh4prez.nate-online.com/Cruiser and M416 Manuals/

 

[Randy]

Thanks for the heads up fellas. Looks like I get to take the timing cover off again, oh well. Do you think the plate gasket is ok or do I need to replace it also?

Randy

 

[Pighead]

A surprisingly common assembly error.

Everybody does that once...
I bet the plate gasket is fine.

 

[Randy]

update

I decided not to take a chance on the plate gasket and went ahead and pulled the cam out and changed all of the timing cover gaskets. The oiler left a faint "witness" mark on the block from being screwed in to far, you guys were right! New felpro gaskets went back in. I drove it to work yesterday and around town today and so far no leak. YEAH!! It would have been wet with oil, but I'm gonna hold off on calling it fixxed until I can put a few more miles on it.

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[david2]

Hello

I am having the same leaking problem, when a machine shop rebuilt the engine I am not sure if they put back the correct bolt lenghts

My Fj40 is 78, I only found 1980 2F FSM:

a) I plan to buy new bolts, could someone confirm if this sizing length and location applies for 78 2F... what is the thread size for this bolts?

b) should I apply gasket sealer to both sides of gasket? it would be nice to be able to reuse the gasket in case leaking continues.. as I might need to open the cover again to change timing gear plate gasket in case the leaking continues

c) what kind of bolt sealer is recommended?

d) I don't have a bunch a mechanic experience, Im kind of learning, I plan to check with a caliper oil nozzle lenght and position the nozzle on thread according to this post advise regarding the plate.. will it be pretty obvious how to STAKE it? I have never staked an oil nozzle

Thanks

 

[Beerfix]

I love this question so much, I'll answer it twice. You threaded your oil squirter too far into the timing plate. The bottom of your squirter bumps into the block and pushes the plate out, there's your oil leak. Unscrew the squirter a turn and stake it in place with a centerpunch at the base.

Man, I love this stuff. Being an engine builder in my past career, theres all these little tricks particular to each engine. I'll never forget this one, unfortunately at the expense of Randys frustration... Thanks Randy!

 

[Beerfix]

Hello

I am having the same leaking problem, when a machine shop rebuilt the engine I am not sure if they put back the correct bolt lenghts

My Fj40 is 78, I only found 1980 2F FSM:

View attachment 1541156

a) I plan to buy new bolts, could someone confirm if this sizing length and location applies for 78 2F... what is the thread size for this bolts?

b) should I apply gasket sealer to both sides of gasket? it would be nice to be able to reuse the gasket in case leaking continues.. as I might need to open the cover again to change timing gear plate gasket in case the leaking continues

c) what kind of bolt sealer is recommended?

d) I don't have a bunch a mechanic experience, Im kind of learning, I plan to check with a caliper oil nozzle lenght and position the nozzle on thread according to this post advise regarding the plate.. will it be pretty obvious how to STAKE it? I have never staked an oil nozzle

Thanks

I can't speak on the bolts, but a nice thin layer of silicone on both sides of the gasket should allow you to be able to remove and re-install it later if need be without damage. But I'd have a new gasket on hand just in case. And if you have a new gasket on hand, why not just replace it to be safe...
As for staking a bolt, here's a pic of a properly staked bolt, although the "bolt" in the pic is a different kind of bolt, the principal still applies, and illustrates the objective. Distort the surrounding material with a center punch, so the threaded component isn't as likely to move. Hope this is helpful.

 

[jfnall]

I've had this exact same issue. I have replaced the timing cover gasket and crank seal 4 times, and yes it's still leaking! Last time I used aircraft sealer. Gonna be a real mess to clean up and fix next time, but thanks to the gurus on this forum, next time I'll back out the squirter. It's been a real head-scratcher for me.

 

[Angelo]

I had the same problem.
I went from a drop or two to a puddle after replacing the gasket. It turned out to be the replacement bolts weren't short enough for location 'C'.
Before and after the seal was fine and since I make my own caskets I didn't bother getting a new one.
A week later it started leaking from the seal.
That's what I get for not waiting an extra day for the seal.

 

[Beehanger]

I've had this exact same issue. I have replaced the timing cover gasket and crank seal 4 times, and yes it's still leaking! Last time I used aircraft sealer. Gonna be a real mess to clean up and fix next time, but thanks to the gurus on this forum, next time I'll back out the squirter. It's been a real head-scratcher for me.

Im confused how the squirter can cause a leak if its too tight. Is it just oozing because its too tight? read this entire thread and still not sure how a nozzle that has the timing cover gasket blokcing it in could cause a leak. I get a drip ever 2 seconds right now, it started pretty soon after I got my engine running.....

 

[Spike Strip]

How not to build the 2F

N00b engine rebuilding question. I've got the thread chasing covered but how would one go about re-chamfering the bolt holes? Maybe something like this? (2nd from left)

forum.ih8mud.com