Rebuildling my '87 22RE - questions

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KLF

KLF

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Since I can't do any bodywork during the winter, the goal for now is to do a thorough tear-down on my engine, work on it in the (unheated) garage when it's not too cold. Engine still ran fine when pulled, no issues to mention except some piston slap when cold, but it's been that way for at least 50K. But I figured after 250K it's earned a refresh. I'm pretty good from the deck up on these engines, but I'll confess now that I've never been in the bottom end of an engine like this, so this is a learning experience.

Block is now totally stripped, pistons and crank on the bench. I've been going thru the FSM as I go along and measuring everything, and so far I haven't found anything that is out of allowable wear tolerances. Plastigage checks came out great. Crank and con rod bearings show some wear, but not significant. Bore is pretty much at maximum, maybe a little over here and there. Piston skirts have some minor scoring, must be from the slap problem. Oil rings are really caked with old burnt oil.

Plan is to take the block to a machine shop, have it tanked and tested, then probably bore it out maybe 20-30 thou. New pistons & rings, all new bearings, probably from engnbldr.com. Questions:

* should I let the machine shop put everything together? I like DIY, but I also think there's some safety in having them put it together, in case anything goes awry. Not sure I wanna mess with the wrist pins, the FSM makes it look like you need a jig and heat to replace them.

* should I pull the freeze plugs? Best way to get them out?
 
the wrist pin is not that bad, you have to tap it out, but i did not need any heat. i only did one and reused every thing that was there so maybe new will be a little more difficult.


i have never messed with the freeze plugs, but an old timer i knew used to drive a screw driver i think through the middle of them then pry them out. but i would think there is a better way.
 
wrist pins are a piece of cake .. you get them with the new pistons .. a simple sink full of really hot water will suffice .

the concern I think your wanting to express .. is the con rod end bushings ?

These NEED to be "sized" to the wrist pins .. but any "competant" machine shop can do this for you .. so you can assemble



feeeze plugs are also an easy removement .. just punch one side into the block , and grab them with some vice grips and twist them out


.
 
IMHO...let the machine shop do the short block re-assembly

Not very much $$
Pros, who do this for a living
Cheaper than your time spent
Done in a "clean room"
the list of advantages can go on

Like you I like DIY...but it just makes good sense to let them do that part (as well as the freeze plugs) & you still get to do all the rest from the block out.
 
look klf it is all what you are comfortable trying, and doing. if you are not comfortable doing the bottom end then let the machine shop do it. but be sure they will let you get the parts or, use the parts you were going to use. a lot of times if you want to order your own stuff say from Toyota, they will not give a warranty, even if they use the parts you want them too and you allow them to order them than you are looking at a major mark up.
 
Bogo said:
4x4wire has engnbldr's comments on power and the 22R/22RE is a must read for those rebuilding it. I strongly suggest reading it. 4x4Wire's TrailTalk Forums: 22R/RE: Simple power tips
Click to expand...

KLF said:
I need a Cliff's Notes version of all that.
Click to expand...
:lol: It's allot to digest.

To me the most important parts I got out of it are to deck the height of the block to the top of the pistons to 0.006" lower. Toyota actually has the pistons protrude 0.006" above the deck height. This means you need to put it together temporarily to find out how much you need to take off. Second, remember how much you took off so you can adjust the timing to suit. Third, changing the exhaust manifold is a waste of money. Use the stock one as it is the right size for keeping the main poser band where it is needed for general use. 4th, Use 2" exhaust pipe after the manifold, and 2-1/4" after the muffler to open things up a bit because the head and valve size changes increase airflow a few percent. Use his Street/RV head, but I'm not sure which cam to go with it yet, 261C looks best sofar. Smooth off the counter weights on the crankshaft to help lower oil temperature. Also rebalance everything. Always make the minimal amount of changes possible.

His recap:
Tight short block.
Quench set to zero/+.006"
Larger valves and mods.
Single pattern cam, 222° or less @ .050", .430" or less lift.
Restore accurate valve timing.
Improve exhaust flow.

No real surprises here, easy to do, cost should be less than $1500 including the paint. This combination WILL make 140+ H/P and I have seen tests that touch 150 now.

The gains are simple, the larger bore increases compression slightly once the deck height is back to zero, the mild head surfacing does the same. The engine is now right at 9.7-9.8 to one static, still good for regular fuel. The airflow increase is about 6-7%, the flow cone is improved. The largest gain is in the larger area added by the cam profile, and this creates a need for the improved exhaust system to take advantage. Tuning settings remain stock.
Click to expand...
It is well worth the read as he goes into details on why certain choices are made later on in the the thread.
 
I've built 2 22re's from the block up. One was "hi-po" and way too expensive.

1st question I have is: what are the goals of the build? More power? More efficiency? Just checking it out?

I'd have the rotating assembly balanced and blueprinted by a competent machine shop (magafluxing is assumed)
I had the piston/rods assembled.
Turn/polish crank.
Buy a complete rebuilt kit from a trusted vendor to the machine shop specs

Since it's an RE, now is a good time to rebuild the injectors.
There are two schools of thoughts on the bolts... Toyota did use some torque to yield, but I've never seen a definitive list of when/where. Consider ARP head studs as an option.

Paint the block a decent color and clear the aluminum.

Resurface flywheel, replace clutch at sametime.
 
Very good info, thanks.

And that's a valid question, re: goals of the build. My goal is to build something that is as reliable as it was before, so I'm not going for the absolute most horsepower or torque. I believe the overboring is a given now, mostly just to re-true the cylinders, I'm measuring some taper that is over the allowable. I need to find a shop in this area that I trust and knows this engine well, that might be a challenge. Not sure about having the block decked, my concern is my head has already been decked 20 thou.

I haven't made a decision about the head yet (keep or replace), it looks in very good shape to me, I just went through it about 50K miles ago, all new oversize SS valves, springs, guides, etc. I was thinking I might try my hand at polishing, just for the heck of it. I did put a new engnbldr cam in it then too, can't remember which one. Can't say I'm really impressed with it. The tappets are looking a little beat up, I will probably get new ones, but the rockers look OK.

Injectors got a complete cleaning and balancing last time too, not sure it's worth doing it again now. I already have a set of ARP head studs.

Already made the jump to an LC header and a custom-built SS 2-1/4" exhaust.

I was planning to get most of the hard parts from engnbldr, but going OEM with a gasket kit, timing chain, and tensioner.
 
I just had to rebuild the whole top end on my 22RE. Bought the truck from a guy who had a shop rebuild it. They did great on the bottom end, that's pretty straight forward, and not up for much debate. But everything else they did shoddy work and used the wrong products. so after 40K miles it needs reworking.

I'd agree, let a shop do the short block, DIY everything else, following the FSM.

Good Luck!

(BTW make sure you change the fuel filter while you're there. 1000X easier.)
 
Bore gauge results. I think I've gonna go with some 0.20 over pistons and rings, but all the crank journals are perfect and still in spec. Guy I work with teaches engine overhaul, he convinced me to do the reassembly.
 

Attachments

Bringing this back up, trying to decide on a cam now. Choices are engnbldr RV 261C, LC Engineering Street Performer, or DOA C270. Leaning towards the engnbldr, I guess. Any input?

Tried a search, didn't find much.
 
KLF said:
Bringing this back up, trying to decide on a cam now. Choices are engnbldr RV 261C, LC Engineering Street Performer, or DOA C270. Leaning towards the engnbldr, I guess. Any input?

Tried a search, didn't find much.
Click to expand...

I have the C270 in my engine but it's a DOA long block assembly. I was really torn between the DOA engine and the LC Engineering. I've also always heard good things about the engnbldr cam.

Bottom line, I don't think you can go wrong with any of the choices.
 
klf,
i have the engine builder 261 cam in my rebuild.
i told tod that mine was a daily driver highway cruiser and that is what he reccomended.
no quarrels with quality or anything. good product

as far as performance, i havent noticed anything in the 800 miles or so i have put on it. feels just as underpowered as before. what can you expect from something that had like 98 bhp from the factory. these trucks are just not performance trucks to being with. so maybe im just used to my modern 200 hp civic that has plenty of pep. additionally, i didnt do much driving my truck between the time i got it and when i tore the engine down. so you might say that i didnt have a firm base line to judge by as well.

but if i were to buy this truck in the shape it is in now from someone and they told me they had a cam in it, i would be skeptical. it just drives...normal to me i guess. and im okay with it.

so, in my opinion if you are looking to build a "performance" 22re then go get the badest cam you can find. cause imo its going to take a lot to feel a noticeable difference. otherwise save your money
 
bryan89 said:
so, in my opinion if you are looking to build a "performance" 22re then go get the badest cam you can find. cause imo its going to take a lot to feel a noticeable difference. otherwise save your money
Click to expand...
No, swap to a 3.4... The 22R and 22RE can only go so far without drastically reducing life expectancy and spending gobs of money.

As for which cam, any of those listed are fine. I personally would go with the engnbldr cam with the Street/RV head. Should provide a modest increase in low to mid end torque, but that is about it. The other change that sounds cheap and is supposed to give a couple ponies is to increase the exhaust pipe sizes after the catalytic converter and muffler. Be careful of increasing the exhaust manifold size due to moving the power band to higher RPMs.
 
Thanks for the input, guys. I think I'm just gonna go with the engnbldr cam, along with a bunch of oter hard parts from him. Now if I can only get them to answer the phone so I can order, been calling mostly all day, all I get is a busy signal.
 
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