Builds Rebuilding a 40 but no longer in a 1 car garage.

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And here is the new switch, I had to include an extra relais for the magnet switch as everything is controled with 230v now and the switch is 400V.

 

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The engine is out.
Had to take the wheels off and lose the hoist chain to get it over the front cross member.

The steering arm won’t budge.

What a pain to get the gearbox off.

 

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Flywheel looks ok, better in person then in the picture.

Split case hase a leak from the rear but depending on what is going in it will be redone, same as gear box.

Next step is measure the squareness of the frame, especialy the tub connection points, before disassembling it.
Going to build a fig for the tub that can be used for the frame reassembly too.

Engine is tucked away in the corner untill I know if it is going back in or not. Currently thinking about replacing it with a 1FZ or a 1/2UZ depending on availability of drive train components and cost. The other option is balancing the rotating componants of this engine and Rebuilding it with an efi system and a compressor. Not surehow much money I want to trow at it. The 2F is completely dry, no leaking seals or gaskets which surprises me.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Mad skills Sir! FJ company puts in 1FZFE in their 40 builds. They have a modified ECU. Heard they might start selling them. Would you do manual transmission if you went the 1FZ route?

 

[waiting for time]

Mad skills Sir! FJ company puts in 1FZFE in their 40 builds. They have a modified ECU. Heard they might start selling them. Would you do manual transmission if you went the 1FZ route?

Yes, just didn’t investigate the options of drive line that fits behind it. Not to worried about the efi part, there are many options out there.

 

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Ready for testing and installation.

 

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Not happy with the floor yet, I overstreched a part which causes some bending. I might be able to fix it but it makes for good practice in making an other one.

I will try and document the proces step by step.
First step cutting a piece of old steel.

Next step is clean it up and draw out the lines.

 

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Cleaned up the steel plate.

 

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Placed the other floor piece over the new plate and roughly drawn the outline.

Set the bend line.

Bend the side lip 90 degr.

Put he patch in position.

 

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Floor in position and lines drawn for bending.

Used a steel rod to make the bend from the floor to the tunnel.

 

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Bend complete for now.

Used this dolly to get the bend radius right.

 

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Marked the ribs on the floor.

 

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Hammered the ribs, the idea is to stretch the metal before I roll the beads in.

First rib is stretched and smoother out with the English Wheel.

 

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Wheeling out the bumps.

Done wheeling.

 

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Rolling the beads in the floor.

 

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All the pieces in position.

All for today. Tomorrow the rear of the floor must will recieve some shape.

 

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Cut a hole in the rocker panel to gain better access.

Fitting the front floor again.

Finishing the DS front tub mount

 

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Front DS floor tacked and cut to size.

 

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Floor in position, I had to cut the rear part of the floor because it created to much tension in the floor.

 

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The inner rocker is mocked up

So is the front DS tub mount

And an overview.

Not sure about the ribbed floor piece, I might make an other one. There is still tension in the material, don’t know if it can be welded in flat.