Panzer,
I suggest you buy the new engine and then sell me your old one for scrap.
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I suggest you buy the new engine and then sell me your old one for scrap.
:
Rebuild or Replace the 1FZ (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Panzer
- Start date
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CAS, I know of a couple people who bought a used "low milage" Japanese engine from Erics Japaneese engines near Dallas (garland). One was a 22RE and was extremely happy with it, the other is a 4runner v6 that isn't installed yet. Jimin runs the place and is very hard to understand (japanese) but he said he could get cruiser engines. His uncle is in Japan and hand picks each one. This will be a complete long block.
http://www.ericjapanengines.com/index.php
http://www.ericjapanengines.com/index.php
GreenFJ40, that's a good resource. Thanks.
How much is a full gasket set for a 1FZ?
Set of rings and bearings?
I have an oil leak up front, a pan arch and/or rear main leak, also considering a pre-emptive HG job, with those tasks to do it almost makes sense to pull the engine and tear it down, not really a rebuild but clean and replace some of the wear items and all the gaskets, maybe a little head work and paint.
Of course that is over the top PM, and since the cruiser is my only vehicle I probably won’t get to it until it needs it, but I have been considering it
Set of rings and bearings?
I have an oil leak up front, a pan arch and/or rear main leak, also considering a pre-emptive HG job, with those tasks to do it almost makes sense to pull the engine and tear it down, not really a rebuild but clean and replace some of the wear items and all the gaskets, maybe a little head work and paint.
Of course that is over the top PM, and since the cruiser is my only vehicle I probably won’t get to it until it needs it, but I have been considering it
Panzer
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #25
Green - thanks for the link. (Bull frog is that you?)
Raven-you just kind of hit on my thought process. I have a 4500 mile road trip coming up next year and it I am thinking it is going to be easier to pull the motor out to repair the front and rear main seals. If I am going that far then I might as well do the HG and any other wear items at that time. Which then turns into which is going to be cheaper the R&R work on the block I have or just plug and play a new powerplant. I'll post the results when I start the repairs.
CAS
Raven-you just kind of hit on my thought process. I have a 4500 mile road trip coming up next year and it I am thinking it is going to be easier to pull the motor out to repair the front and rear main seals. If I am going that far then I might as well do the HG and any other wear items at that time. Which then turns into which is going to be cheaper the R&R work on the block I have or just plug and play a new powerplant. I'll post the results when I start the repairs.
CAS
RavenTai said:
Dang.. Raven. You must be getting board
.From what I can tell the head removal and pan arch removal/crankshaft seal replacement are pretty much independent of each other. Not sure that doing them together and pulling the motor/tranny would save a whole lot time. Be a hell of lot of work for a couple of oil leaks.
I wouldn't pull the engine for those problems. Do an inspection for the rear leak through the access cover on the tranny. It's probably the oil pan and do that in the truck. As fas as everything else it's a long job but possible in a week.
I did just that, HG, oil pan,front seal and a bunch more in like 6 days. I still get a drip at the rear after 5000 miles but the tranny can stay right there for that little amount.
I did just that, HG, oil pan,front seal and a bunch more in like 6 days. I still get a drip at the rear after 5000 miles but the tranny can stay right there for that little amount.
landtank said:
I heard dat..!
The pan job took me a full weekend. 4 Hours to get everything apart and the upper pan broke loose, and 6 hours trying to get everything just right to get the F'n pan out. After about hour 5, I was laying there thing... what in the fawk have you done?? All this over a drop of oil every couple days.
Anyhoo.., learned alot and could probably do it in a day now
.
Rookie2
I need to troubleshoot that rear leak again, spent an afternoon cleaning the bottom of the engine and transmission, then laid under it idling for 30 min. not one drop, after driving for a few thousand miles oil is everywhere again and I cannot tell where it is coming from, I have some oil inside the bell housing none on the visible portions of the fly wheel, not sure if it is getting in from the pan arch or being made from the rear main. I also have oil on the aft side of the pan, and running from the front. I loose 2 quarts between 5K oil changes, more like 3 with thinner oil. I think about a quart of that is going through the PCV.
The front has a minor seep on the oil pump cover (just makes a stain) and something more significant from near the crank but it two did not show in 30 min, not sure if theses leaks take higher RPM or sloshing to occur but they do not show at idle. I guess I need to clean it, drive a short distance, inspect and repeat until they first show themselves, it never drips in the driveway.
My understanding is you have to lift the motor off its mounts a few inches to do the upper pan?, then you have to work in the cramped confines under the vehicle. It is not that much more work to get the engine out, fuel, coolant, trans bolts, torque converter bolts, exhaust, throttle cable, and electrical, hopefully the 80 is like a Tacoma where you can unhook the harness from the ECM in the dash and let it come out with the motor.
Does not make sense for just the pan but for a HG job also I think I might make out in effort if not in time by removing the motor and have it sitting on a stand to work on
Don’t get me wrong not planning on doing this any time soon, probably a couple years down the line, around 200K or so unless I run into any more problems
In the mean time I am looking for a cheap 1FZ that I could drop in and work on this engine without time constraints possibly get a little more involved, got my eye out for a cheap wrecked 96/97 LX parts truck.
The front has a minor seep on the oil pump cover (just makes a stain) and something more significant from near the crank but it two did not show in 30 min, not sure if theses leaks take higher RPM or sloshing to occur but they do not show at idle. I guess I need to clean it, drive a short distance, inspect and repeat until they first show themselves, it never drips in the driveway.
My understanding is you have to lift the motor off its mounts a few inches to do the upper pan?, then you have to work in the cramped confines under the vehicle. It is not that much more work to get the engine out, fuel, coolant, trans bolts, torque converter bolts, exhaust, throttle cable, and electrical, hopefully the 80 is like a Tacoma where you can unhook the harness from the ECM in the dash and let it come out with the motor.
Does not make sense for just the pan but for a HG job also I think I might make out in effort if not in time by removing the motor and have it sitting on a stand to work on
Don’t get me wrong not planning on doing this any time soon, probably a couple years down the line, around 200K or so unless I run into any more problems
In the mean time I am looking for a cheap 1FZ that I could drop in and work on this engine without time constraints possibly get a little more involved, got my eye out for a cheap wrecked 96/97 LX parts truck.
If you are going to go to the trouble to pull the motor out to pull the pan and/or head you might as well freshen it up for another 250k miles. With the head and pans off it isn't much further in to ring it and install new bearings. While you do that, get the machine shop to grind the valves and you are all set.
Dan, ballpark for set of gaskets rings and bearings?
If I get to it early enough for the head I was hoping I could bet by with just replacing the guides/seals and lapping the valves by hand, resetting the clearance and cleaning everything,
And yep if the head and pans are off makes sense to do the bearings and rings, if there is any cylinder wall scoring beyond what honing can take care off can’t you get 1mm oversize rings? Or do you have to get bigger pistons also?
If I get to it early enough for the head I was hoping I could bet by with just replacing the guides/seals and lapping the valves by hand, resetting the clearance and cleaning everything,
And yep if the head and pans are off makes sense to do the bearings and rings, if there is any cylinder wall scoring beyond what honing can take care off can’t you get 1mm oversize rings? Or do you have to get bigger pistons also?
An overhaul gasket set, piston rings, main bearings, rod bearings and crankshaft thrust washers will list out for right about 800 bucks.
Toyota offers O/S pistons and rings in .5mm and 1.0mm either of which will require and over-bore of the cylinders. O/S rings add about 45 bucks for the set and O/S pistons are about 75 bucks each.
Going to O/S pistons and rings brings the list total up to about 1300 bucks, plus machine work.
D-
Toyota offers O/S pistons and rings in .5mm and 1.0mm either of which will require and over-bore of the cylinders. O/S rings add about 45 bucks for the set and O/S pistons are about 75 bucks each.
Going to O/S pistons and rings brings the list total up to about 1300 bucks, plus machine work.
D-
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Thanks Dan.
RavenTai said:
I seriously doubt with only 125 on the clock you need all that work. With similar mileage I just cleaned the mating surfaces up and bolted everything back together. I realise that this goes against the norm but almost 40k later and things are still running sweet.
Engine Replacement
I just got off of the horn with the engine shop in Texas, see earlier link, they have a engine for a 91 w/ 55k on it for $900 + $150 in shipping. Seams pretty cheap to me. Mine FJ80 is at 216 right now, still runs decent only a small leak on the lifter cover gasketm but it will die someday! What I really need is a transmission.
I just got off of the horn with the engine shop in Texas, see earlier link, they have a engine for a 91 w/ 55k on it for $900 + $150 in shipping. Seams pretty cheap to me. Mine FJ80 is at 216 right now, still runs decent only a small leak on the lifter cover gasketm but it will die someday! What I really need is a transmission.
Wile working the drive shaft’s today I popped the inspection cover again and put a strong light in there and I'll be dammed there are light oil streaks running radialy out on the flywheel and torque converter so this means rear main is leaking correct? I guess it still could possibly be both the pan arch and rear main leaking but at least that sounds like a positive ID on at least the rear main leaking?
With my head near the front of the front driveshaft I got a pretty good look at the right side of then engine, I looked up at the head/block interface near #6 looking for leaks today, none found, meant to look for protruding gasket wile I was there and forget to.
Rich you are right with 125K on the clock I don’t Need all that work, I have a head gasket who’s day’s are numbered (I don’t know if it is 10 day’s or 10,000 day’s) compressions that is “OK” but not ideal, one valve slightly out of adjustment, many minor to moderate oil leaks and one or more bearings that are throwing more lead than average but not excessive, with the exception of the HG witch cannot be predicted the rest would probably run just fine for another 100K
but I am starting to run into a situation where it is better knock this stuff out now than have it forced on me later as I have a garage and a good job right now, two things I may not have again for a few years. The selling of the garage (with attached house) will get the cruiser and other debt paid for, I really like my LX450, it is a very versatile vehicle I can see myself driving it for many years to come.
I am trying to figure out if could do a light rebuild hopefully avoiding machine work if possible during 2 weeks vacation with a rental/borrowed car to drive.
Thinking clean inspect and measure everything re-gasket/seal including valve stem seals rings and bearings , lap the valves by hand and re-set the lash, hopefully the crank block (bores and surfaces) and head will be Ok at this mileage and need no outside work. If I have time left over paint.
The other option is the preemptive HG job in truck and roll on.to 200+K for the rebuild. (about 3 years at my current rate)
With my head near the front of the front driveshaft I got a pretty good look at the right side of then engine, I looked up at the head/block interface near #6 looking for leaks today, none found, meant to look for protruding gasket wile I was there and forget to.
Rich you are right with 125K on the clock I don’t Need all that work, I have a head gasket who’s day’s are numbered (I don’t know if it is 10 day’s or 10,000 day’s) compressions that is “OK” but not ideal, one valve slightly out of adjustment, many minor to moderate oil leaks and one or more bearings that are throwing more lead than average but not excessive, with the exception of the HG witch cannot be predicted the rest would probably run just fine for another 100K
but I am starting to run into a situation where it is better knock this stuff out now than have it forced on me later as I have a garage and a good job right now, two things I may not have again for a few years. The selling of the garage (with attached house) will get the cruiser and other debt paid for, I really like my LX450, it is a very versatile vehicle I can see myself driving it for many years to come.
I am trying to figure out if could do a light rebuild hopefully avoiding machine work if possible during 2 weeks vacation with a rental/borrowed car to drive.
Thinking clean inspect and measure everything re-gasket/seal including valve stem seals rings and bearings , lap the valves by hand and re-set the lash, hopefully the crank block (bores and surfaces) and head will be Ok at this mileage and need no outside work. If I have time left over paint.
The other option is the preemptive HG job in truck and roll on.to 200+K for the rebuild. (about 3 years at my current rate)
